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Radio Failure

1575 Views 9 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  Boatzo
Hello everyone,

I just traveled over 1051 miles round trip in two days to buy and bring my (new, to me) 2000 K1200LT home. Tomorrow I will get my Virginia tag and let the adventure begin but I hope someone here can help me out with a relatively unimportant mishap. The previous owner told me that the shop turned the radio on while replacing the front tire (a pre-condition of the sale) and everything worked fine for a few seconds but the radio and the computer then quit almost immediately. The shop guy replaced a fuse and the computer is now working but the radio and CD gizmo is still inop. I have the assurance of the previous owner that he will take care of any major fixes regarding this but I hope it is a minor problem and someone here will have the answer to correct this glitch. On the advice of Boatzo I have ordered a Clymer manual in case I need it but I hope someone here will offer the magic touch to bring everything back on line. Thank you all in advance.

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Fuse F1 and F4 are for the computer. F8 is the radio fuse. There is also a 10 amp ON the back connector of the radio but that one usually does not go and you have to dig deep to get to it. If F8 does not fix it she may need a "hard reset". Disconnect the battery negative terminal for 10-15 minutes then reconnect. Some times that gets her going again.
Don't know if it is applicable here but I just spent about 3 hours working on my 09 today. The radio went nuts today. The volume was gone then HIGH. Then gone again. Couldn't shut it off and the display was acting weird.

Finally traced it down to the rear seat volume control. A combination of grit in the switch, (it was very windy today) and some white silicon looking stuff on the inside of the switch. It was in the rocker area of the switch and I think it was keeping the switch from going back to center. Cleaned that up and everything is back to normal.

Just my 2 cents worth.....
Thank you both for your help. This forum is the best!

I have ordered a Clymer manual but it hasn't come yet, I decided to go ahead and look for the obvious: a bad fuse. When I checked them I saw where someone had put a 7.5 amp fuse where a 4 amp fuse was supposed to go according to the fuse box cover, but I don't know what number this fuse represents as referenced above. As best I could tell all of the fuses seemed not to be blown. Of course I am wondering if this larger fuse allowed the fuse to be blown that is located behind the radio.

So then on to the alternative attempted fix. I disconnected the negative terminal of the battery and let it sit for 10 minutes. But when I re-connected the negative battery cable it sparked when it touched the battery terminal; scared me so much I dropped the lock washer (and can't find it). It did this every time I re-tried but then I gritted my teeth and made firm contact and there were no more sparks, so I finished connecting it.

Now the bike doesn't have enough battery power to start (and the radio still doesn't work). Do I have a short somewhere? It started right up when I bought it and even though it sat for almost a week it started right up yesterday and I rode over 100 miles. I guess I just have terrible mechanical ability or I am not holding my mouth right when I grit my teeth, or something.

Why did the terminal spark? Did I screw up? Help me, please.


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No mistake on your part, there is normally a small spark when you reattach the battery. Since it will not start double check you got all the brown ground wires to negative. you don't mention what the voltage is, get a meter and check you may just need a charge. This bike has a constant drain on the battery so if it is parked for any amount of time it should be attached to a trickle charger.
Hope that helps a little, lots more information here on batteries and connection issues, so use the search a little and you will find LOTS more information on next steps.
Thank you, John. I talked with Boatzo this afternoon and he reassured me that the spark was normal. I am going to borrow a battery charger from him tomorrow and charge the battery, then do a load test by checking the drop while starting the bike tomorrow to learn what I can with a multitester.

The radio is another issue but I will change out the 7.5 amp fuse with the proper 4 amp one. Then wait for the Clymer manual. Somehow, I believe I will end up digging for the 10 amp fuse at the back of the radio.

Thanks again, John and all.

Replacing the fuse in the radio will be a good exercise in removing the Tupperware. It's buried kind of deep. Some make cardboard panels to keep track of the screws. I just use the long screws first and finish with the shorter ones. You will need to make sure you use short screw at the sting ray or you might have interference with the fuel tank.

Not hard but kind of intimidating first time through.

"I am not holding my mouth right when I grit my teeth, or something."

I laughed so hard I have tears :rotf:
Bob, the battery charger is on the front porch as we will be at church today. I forgot to tell you that the meter on the front of the charger doesn't work, but the charger still functions. Call me later and let me know how you made out.
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