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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone got any pictures of their Stebel Nautilus installs?
I fitted one successfully on my last GT but was wondering if any of you guys could show how you bracketed the horn, relay placement, wiring route etc.
 

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I have a 2010. I put it on the left side forward there is a factory horn tab. The tough part was getting the mount nut loose on the stock buzzer. I removed it, bought a stock connector that matched the horn side and plugged it into the factory horn connector (you can skip all this and just tap into the wires of course). I used this new lead off the stock horn wiring to trigger a relay for the new horn. The new ones draw quite a bit of current and will trip out the stock power circuit on over current. I had to bend in the new horn bracket a little to move the new horn more towards the mid line of the bike (away from the plastic). I used the bracket off the old buzzer to mount my new horn. . But it all went in well and works much better. The 06/07 horns are very nice but pricey. Also about 2009 the wire harness dropped the extra horn connector which was there but not used for a couple of years.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Done!
Purchased a Stebel Nautilus Compact off Ebay packed with a ready to go wiring harness.
Working on the stock horn hardware was tricky. Would have been a breeze if my fingers were 3 inches longer.
Using stock mounting point the Stebel horn has to run at right angles to the bike to clear the front brake hose and I have the actual horn outlet on mine facing the left side of the bike.
I fabricated an L bracket which was probably the most time consuming part by trial and error.
Two stock wires to the OEM horn trigger a relay which is powered straight from the battery then the horn is powered straight from the relay.
The new loom harness that came with it was pretty much plug and play.
About 3 hours all up but if I had to do another one tomorrow it could probably be done in an hour.
Ive had one before so I shouldnt have been surprised but man are these things LOUD!!!!
 

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beech said:
I have a 2010. I put it on the left side forward there is a factory horn tab. The tough part was getting the mount nut loose on the stock buzzer. I removed it, bought a stock connector that matched the horn side and plugged it into the factory horn connector (you can skip all this and just tap into the wires of course). I used this new lead off the stock horn wiring to trigger a relay for the new horn. The new ones draw quite a bit of current and will trip out the stock power circuit on over current. I had to bend in the new horn bracket a little to move the new horn more towards the mid line of the bike (away from the plastic). I used the bracket off the old buzzer to mount my new horn. . But it all went in well and works much better. The 06/07 horns are very nice but pricey. Also about 2009 the wire harness dropped the extra horn connector which was there but not used for a couple of years.
Dear beech, would you have the part number for that stock connector please?

Need this to install my Stebel on the 2011 RT and I do not want to cut into the stock wiring.

Thank you

frenchnew with a new 2011 R1200RT
 

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The BMW connector that fits into the horn connection isn # 8330 0402 344. It comes with some shrink tubing that when used has a gel inside which seals things from the weather. Neat stuff. I noticed on a ride the other day that the horn shakes a little on tab. I suspect it is the flex strap. I may put a tie wrap on it to dampen this. The new horn is heavier than the original buzzer the strap was designed for and this may be an issue. I had to move things towards the center line due to the horn size and it being too close to the plastic, but it all fits in there. To my dismay my riding buddy with his ear plugs in and being hard of hearing (which he denies!) can not hear this horn either when I am trying to attract his attention. I have reverted to coming up along side and waving. Tried and true.
 

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Installed Wolo Bad Boy air horn (same as Stebel) last weekend. Mounted the air horn in the same location as the factory disk horn. Includes relay switch. Positive battery terminal to relay switch terminal 30, factory wires to relay terminals 85 & 86 and the positive air horn terminal to relay 87.

After initial installation, blipped the horn button and it honked. After that took the motorcycle out for a ride and the horn would not work. Back at the shop, moved the ground wire from the air horn to another location just to make sure and checked the horn again with the ignition switch in the on position. It worked and honked several times. Took it out on the road and again it would not work. Stopped in a parking lot turned the motorcycle off for about a minute and turned the ignition switch to the on position. The horn did not work.

Any thoughts? :confused:
 

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dude987 said:
Installed Wolo Bad Boy air horn (same as Stebel) last weekend. Mounted the air horn in the same location as the factory disk horn. Includes relay switch. Positive battery terminal to relay switch terminal 30, factory wires to relay terminals 85 & 86 and the positive air horn terminal to relay 87.

After initial installation, blipped the horn button and it honked. After that took the motorcycle out for a ride and the horn would not work. Back at the shop, moved the ground wire from the air horn to another location just to make sure and checked the horn again with the ignition switch in the on position. It worked and honked several times. Took it out on the road and again it would not work. Stopped in a parking lot turned the motorcycle off for about a minute and turned the ignition switch to the on position. The horn did not work.

Any thoughts? :confused:
I'm getting ready to install a Stebel Nautilus to my K1600GTL and on the wiring diagram that came with it, the relay point # 87 goes directly to the + battery terminal. Number 30 goes to the + on the new horn. The diagram shows the bikes horn going to ground. I'm wiring all (-) grounds directly back to the battery. You may have a bad relay or bad ground.
 

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If you have an inline fuse check that, these things draw 25 amps. You also need to put a diode across the coil to fight the induced voltage created when you open the coil circuit. (release the horn button).
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/hweb2.pdf
See page 11.
You need to get out the volt meter and see if the trigger signal is coming from your original horn wiring as needed. Check all connections. One thing at a time and you will find it.
 

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beech said:
The BMW connector that fits into the horn connection isn # 8330 0402 344. It comes with some shrink tubing that when used has a gel inside which seals things from the weather. Neat stuff. I noticed on a ride the other day that the horn shakes a little on tab. I suspect it is the flex strap. I may put a tie wrap on it to dampen this. The new horn is heavier than the original buzzer the strap was designed for and this may be an issue. I had to move things towards the center line due to the horn size and it being too close to the plastic, but it all fits in there. To my dismay my riding buddy with his ear plugs in and being hard of hearing (which he denies!) can not hear this horn either when I am trying to attract his attention. I have reverted to coming up along side and waving. Tried and true.
Thank You beech. :cool:
 

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beech said:
{snip}...Also about 2009 the wire harness dropped the extra horn connector which was there but not used for a couple of years.
My 2009 RT had the 2nd horn wiring intact. I ditched the pancake buzzer and retrofitted the dual '05 RT horns easily. These things are LOUD! No cut wires, no electrical problems. Had to use the horn while dodging a texting driver (with all windows up) on I-80 to Bloomsburg, PA and they definitely caught the person's attention!

Many people don't think they have the connector until they remove the front nacelle and see its taped-up position on the front left horizontal nacelle frame. Mine was just visible after I removed the left mirror and shined a flashlight down there. Here's what you're looking for:



The picture shows the horizontal nacelle frame member and the 2nd horn connector/wiring taped/zip-tied to it. The view is from the left (clutch) side of the bike with the outer fairing and nacelle removed.

To date, I have not read of an actual visual confirmation that the 2nd connector has been removed on the '10-'11 models. There are several anecdotal posts that the connector has been removed, but AFAIK, no visual (photographic) evidence. This little bugger is a bit difficult to find so perhaps it has been removed or it hasn't; I may be worth removing the nacelle on a 2010-11 to put this controversy to bed.

Luis Roth has an informative post on the BMWMOA forums about retrofitting the dual horns.
 

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Had the torx screw head with plastic grommet between the grounding wire and the frame. Thought the torx screw connected to the frame would connect the ground. Not. Rewired the horn grounding wire directly touching the frame. Problem solved. Wolo Bad Boy mode 419 is suppose to be the same as Stebel. The horn is loud but not as loud as I had expected. All the ads would have you believe it is as loud as a freight train or a mack truck. Not even close. Definitely louder then the chintzy factory disc horn but that's not saying much. Connected to the same location as the stock horn with brass 90 degree angle bracket. Brass ideal for eliminating any oxidation problems. Wired with 14 gauge wire with inline 20 amp fuse. Very please with nip & tuck that closely resembles factory stock installation. :bmw:
 

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My local Ducati dealer installed one under the seat of my '09 RT. First time was sloppy and it died on a three week western ride, but since then they re-did it and it works fine. If interested I can take some photos.
 

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To date said:
I had a 2006 RT and found the same connector and then installed the BMW two horn system. On my 2011 RT I removed the entire front body work to the frame for an unobstructed view of the front wiring harness. There is no second horn connector on this year. The frame mount for the second horn remains, but there is no wiring support from the factory. Don't know if this is the case on the 2010 model. Hope this helps someone.
 
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