Thanks for the replies.
I have read TONS of posts about CC issues but my problem is I can't even get the testing procedure started because if I turn on the CC (red light activates), that is all I get.
If I follow the testing procedure at step 2 (push to SET position and turn on ignition) the yellow CC light on the dash never lights.
I have adjusted the micro switches on clutch side and throttle side with no change.
My guess is that the SET/RESUME switch is shot (tries shooting some contact cleaner in there) and I will need to try a new switch.
I just wanted to see if anyone thought there might be something else to check given that the yellow dash light never comes on.
Any last ditch thoughts would be welcomed before I spend money on a new switch (and hope that was the issue)
Yes there is more that you can check before you buy a new combo-switch:
1) Inside the combo-switch, the SET and RES are two different micro-switches, so even if the SET is defective, the other may work. The RES cannot be used to start the diagnostic, but if all the rest is OK, a RES action while you ride should activate the cruise.
2) If the test above is not conclusive, you can check every micro-switch of the left combo by following the wires to their respective connector. The Left combo has 2 group of wires for all the functions (plus a few more simple wires for clutch micro-switch and heated grips).
3) Oner wire-bundle leads to a BLACK 6 pins connector at the end. I am very familiar with the K1200RS that has the same cruise-control, but on the K1200LT, I am not sure where is the connector attached. I have a used combo-switch in front of me - based on the wire length, I would guess it does not go farther than the front fairing on the k1200LT. This connector is for the cruise functions only and you can check every action in a static manner using only an OhmMeter (ignition stays OFF). See attached document in PDF format..
4) The other wire-bundle leads to a RED 18 pins connector at the end - this goes into the main electrical box (with all the relays). This is mainly for left-flasher, horn, 4-way flashers.
As you will have to dig under the fairings if you replace the switch, you might as well dig there to make sure that indeed the SET function is defective before you buy something.
Although BMW does NOT sell individual parts inside the switch, I have a few used combo-switch-assembly where I steal parts (most micro-switches inside are similar). It is not an easy job as everything is tigh and welding wires is involved.
Let me know what you find using the attached document...