[microbc]

I know that there are a ton of CC threads here but I have one quick question for the LT guru's!

When I turn on my cc the red light always comes on but when I try to set it the dash light never illuminates and the cruise doesn't set.

If I try the diagnostics it obviously fails on the second step (hold in set position and turn on key, SET light should come on).

Short of installing a new main cc switch, is there anything else I can check or do?

I have checked the fuse and shot some electrical contact cleaner into the switch.

I can hear the micro switches clicking on both the clutch and throttle side and all brake lights seem to be functioning properly.

Thanks,

 

[microbc]

Just hoping to get a response to my CC question.

Does it sound like I need a new switch or is there any additional testing I can try before looking for one on eBay?

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

 

[Cochinosucio]

Sounds like your throttle cable is out of rig.

 

[lesn]

The problem is that too many switches effect the function of the cruise control. Two brakes, trottle, clutch and maybe some relays as well. I have the same problem, I get to #6 and than it does exactly the opposite the test calls for.
Have you read all that is written in the Hall of Wisdom ?

 

[microbc]

Thanks for the replies.

I have read TONS of posts about CC issues but my problem is I can't even get the testing procedure started because if I turn on the CC (red light activates), that is all I get.

If I follow the testing procedure at step 2 (push to SET position and turn on ignition) the yellow CC light on the dash never lights.

I have adjusted the micro switches on clutch side and throttle side with no change.

My guess is that the SET/RESUME switch is shot (tries shooting some contact cleaner in there) and I will need to try a new switch.

I just wanted to see if anyone thought there might be something else to check given that the yellow dash light never comes on.

Any last ditch thoughts would be welcomed before I spend money on a new switch (and hope that was the issue)

 

[sailor]

Thanks for the replies.

I have read TONS of posts about CC issues but my problem is I can't even get the testing procedure started because if I turn on the CC (red light activates), that is all I get.

If I follow the testing procedure at step 2 (push to SET position and turn on ignition) the yellow CC light on the dash never lights.

I have adjusted the micro switches on clutch side and throttle side with no change.

My guess is that the SET/RESUME switch is shot (tries shooting some contact cleaner in there) and I will need to try a new switch.

I just wanted to see if anyone thought there might be something else to check given that the yellow dash light never comes on.

Any last ditch thoughts would be welcomed before I spend money on a new switch (and hope that was the issue)

Yes there is more that you can check before you buy a new combo-switch:

1) Inside the combo-switch, the SET and RES are two different micro-switches, so even if the SET is defective, the other may work. The RES cannot be used to start the diagnostic, but if all the rest is OK, a RES action while you ride should activate the cruise.

2) If the test above is not conclusive, you can check every micro-switch of the left combo by following the wires to their respective connector. The Left combo has 2 group of wires for all the functions (plus a few more simple wires for clutch micro-switch and heated grips).

3) Oner wire-bundle leads to a BLACK 6 pins connector at the end. I am very familiar with the K1200RS that has the same cruise-control, but on the K1200LT, I am not sure where is the connector attached. I have a used combo-switch in front of me - based on the wire length, I would guess it does not go farther than the front fairing on the k1200LT. This connector is for the cruise functions only and you can check every action in a static manner using only an OhmMeter (ignition stays OFF). See attached document in PDF format..

4) The other wire-bundle leads to a RED 18 pins connector at the end - this goes into the main electrical box (with all the relays). This is mainly for left-flasher, horn, 4-way flashers.

As you will have to dig under the fairings if you replace the switch, you might as well dig there to make sure that indeed the SET function is defective before you buy something.

Although BMW does NOT sell individual parts inside the switch, I have a few used combo-switch-assembly where I steal parts (most micro-switches inside are similar). It is not an easy job as everything is tigh and welding wires is involved.

Let me know what you find using the attached document...

 

[Zeke]

Check the anti lock sensor that runs off the back disc. if the cable is internally broke it can cause that issue. just a thought, i changed mine twice. Its the way BMW runs the cable. Down the swingarm and the 90 deg bend straight up. They wire tie it there and that is where it can break. the last time was 200k ago, I cut all the wire ties and redid them so a gentle turn is made.

Zeke

 

[microbc]

Hi All,

One last question regarding my CC issue.

I have tested everything I can think of and tried everything mentioned in your responses, still no success.

Red light comes on the CC switch but that is it. Can't get past step one in the test procedure.

Have pulled everything apart and tested relay, micro switches, throttle cable, etc.... .

My question is, I realized that the previous owner had added a LED break light under the license plate that comes on when the breaks are activated (square black box with two rows of eight LED's).

Could this be causing an issue? Some sort of current draw that is making the computer think the breaks are on?

I'm about to give up and take it to a dealer and admitt defeat!

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Art

 

[gary45]

IF the cruise has never worked from time of your purchase then might be a possibility which you can test simply by disconnecting the leds at source connection

 

[microbc]

Hi Gary45,

I definately plan on trying that.

I only realized last night that the extra break light wasn't factory while looking at pictures of other LT's.

Never gave it a thought while I was doing all the other testing and stuff!

I had previously read a post (which made me think about the added LED lights) about the rear break circuit and something to do with if the tail light went bad the breaklight would come on at half power and cause CC issues but darned if I can find that old post to see if that applies to a 2002 model.

Thanks,

Art