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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I've had no final drive problems whatsoever. I think those that had problems were pre-wethead bikes, and they could have problems regardless of whether a trailer was being towed.
The download on the towbar is around 10 to 13kg - much less than a pillion. I can't see how it could cause final drive problems with that weight. The setup of the towbar is important IMO - mine is adjustable, so I set mine in a way that the centre of the towball is inline with the final drive centreline when the bike is loaded. That prevents any coupling moments when manoeuvring into (and out of) corners. Otherwise, that coupling moment can affect the steering of the trailer, which then gives undesired feedback into the towbar. Not dangerous, but it makes the task of towing less enjoyable.
One thing I found with the LED taillight on the RT is that I couldn't get the incandescent globes in the trailer lights to work without triggering a fault code on my GS-911. (I put it down to the relatively high current demand from the trailer globes). So I built a powered adapter box using solid-state relays to get around the problem. I now get no error codes with the GS-911, and the trailer lights function perfectly. The box for the adapter sits under the top box rack behind the TPMS box.
The fuel economy on my bike is normally around 4.7L/100km. with the trailer on it goes up to about 5-5.2L/100km, so about the same as your experience.
Thanks for the info. I think most of the final drives are very robust. Goldwing had some trouble with some years as well. Many that failed had never pulled a trailer,and from what I understand it was a bearing problem that failed. I would think the RT would be similar.
 

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I pulled a neosho starlight trailer ( 2 wheels ) with my 2016 RT . It weight 160 lbs empty 260 lbs with everything I could think of to take never had a problem. I intend to put my hitch and wiring harness on my 2020 RT next spring.
 
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I have had goldwings in the past. Several of them and done long trips. Does anyone pull a trailer with a RT ? How does it do?
I had a 2014 1200RT and pulled a Bushtec with it, which is pretty large. Handled very well, but could tell that stopping was affected.
Purchased a 2018 1200RT and tried to pull a Unigo trailer (1 wheel) it pulled great, didn't know it was even there. The hitch was hidden under the rear fender. But I could never get the trailer lights to work with the newer wiring system the bike had. I am wondering how everyone else handled this issue??? I didn't worry about it as I have Clear Water lights on the rear and they are so bright I just didn't worry.
 

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I have had goldwings in the past. Several of them and done long trips. Does anyone pull a trailer with a RT ? How does it do?
I do, but only a single wheeler, so the loads are low. 35 kg for the trailer empty and 70 kg loaded. We don't camp, so it is only to hold cloths and supplies for multi day trips. Cannot tell the trailer is behind, loaded or empty.
Same for me.
Wheel Tire Water Sky Cloud
 

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I have pulled a Bushtec as well for probably 70,000 miles and the only time I knew it was there was starting out from a dead stop and when braking hard in a corner (which you should never do anyway). I did manage to flip it over upside down thanks to a deep up hill pot hole when getting on the highway but once righted, it pulled fine. You won't have that issue with a Unigo.

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
I have pulled a Bushtec as well for probably 70,000 miles and the only time I knew it was there was starting out from a dead stop and when braking hard in a corner (which you should never do anyway). I did manage to flip it over upside down thanks to a deep up hill pot hole when getting on the highway but once righted, it pulled fine. You won't have that issue with a Unigo.

View attachment 176643

View attachment 176644
Wow, I don’t recall anyone flipping a bushtec unless they were involved in a accedent.
 

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Wow, I don’t recall anyone flipping a bushtec unless they were involved in a accident.
Well I managed it without one. Pulling onto a highway at a signal light, red path is bike track, blue is Bushtec track. Left wheel went in huge pot hole and on exit the bump flipped the trailer up on its side and then it went completely over. Managed to make it to the far lane and get partway off the road. Was able to right it with help of a passerby and continued on our trip. It was a really different ride pulling a trailer upside down.
Plant Road surface Asphalt Vehicle Wheel
 
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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Well I managed it without one. Pulling onto a highway at a signal light, red path is bike track, blue is Bushtec track. Left wheel went in huge pot hole and on exit the bump flipped the trailer up on its side and then it went completely over. Managed to make it to the far lane and get partway off the road. Was able to right it with help of a passerby and continued on our trip. It was a really different ride pulling a trailer upside down.
View attachment 176654
Thanks for the illustration and the explanation. It will help me and others avoid that situation. I run the one I had over curbs turning into parking lots with out issue and really never felt it on the bike, but it was low speed so the trailer just rolled across the curb.
 

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I dont like it . It's to long
Every single two wheeled trailer for towing behind a motorcycle is longer. Unless you mean the "classic" design Armoric trailer that has the rear wheel behind the luggage space. I have the one with the wheel under. The bike with the trailer coupled fits in a standard car parking spot. I only have a photo behind my '06 RT, none with the '21, but even behind a CLC fitted in a car spot.

 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Every single two wheeled trailer for towing behind a motorcycle is longer. Unless you mean the "classic" design Armoric trailer that has the rear wheel behind the luggage space. I have the one with the wheel under. The bike with the trailer coupled fits in a standard car parking spot. I only have a photo behind my '06 RT, none with the '21, but even behind a CLC fitted in a car spot.

I did not catch the armoric trailer brand when it was first mentioned. After your post with the pic I looked them up. They look like a nice trailer. I would like to see a different suspension used . I am not a fan of rubber torsion style suspension systems although I do have a couple of trailers that use that. I do like the looks a design of the boxes they design. As always it would be nice to combine a few different ones into one trailer.
 

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As always it would be nice to combine a few different ones into one trailer.
Couldn't agree more. Unfortunately that will only happen if you do it all yourself. I am good with metal work and have either access to or the tools themselves, but could not bring myself to research, learn and practice fibreglass moulding for a one-off trailer.

The suspension is fine, it works without bouncing noticeably while towing it. Of course an independent type adjustable suspension would be great, but see above ;)
 

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...But I could never get the trailer lights to work with the newer wiring system the bike had. I am wondering how everyone else handled this issue???
Gidday Travis,
The problem is present in all Wetheads, because the bike has LEDs. If your trailer has the old incandescent bulbs, the load will almost guarantee a short circuit (or similar) fault code in the ZFE (Central Chassis Electronics module). I'm unsure if having LEDs on the trailer would place a small enough load on the ZFE to not cause a fault.
My way around it was to make up a separate circuit (4) for each lamp, each powered by a micro-sized relay. I get the power from one of the taps on a Fuzeblock.
The trigger wire for each circuit comes from each taillight wire on the bike via a Posi-tap. They are effectively trigger wires and draw next to no current, hence no faults with the ZFE.
In order to protect the bike's wiring from spikes from the relays, I put a diode in each sense wire.

It's very rough, as I put it all together by hand.

It all fits in the grey box in the first photo.
Hope this helps.

John.
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I'm unsure if having LEDs on the trailer would place a small enough load on the ZFE to not cause a fault.
I can confirm that the '21 bike works fine with taps only for LED trailer lights. I have an EZCan that I used on the '06 RT for trailer connection (the one with the same bulb/filament for stop and tail light), now it's redundant as my trailer works fine. Also, soldering makes for much more reliable and longer lasting connection than Posi-taps and like.
 
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