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1999 BMW k1200 LT
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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
1) On a positive note, I put the bike mostly back together. The fuel gauge now works (Was disconnected), the rad fans work (disconnected temp sensor per kirk's video) and let bike idle/rev on center stand...got hot, fans kicked in and got cool quickly.
2) On a negative note the coolant temperature switch was leaking coolant even after I torqued it with a harbor freight torque wrench. Tried to tighten again thinking I went to light and snapped off the top of the switch...not happy. Any tips on getting it out and replacing the coolant switch?
3) Also when trying to put in the bolt above the battery I somehow cross threaded the center stand lift handle...how do you guys do that angle??? I'm hoping I can salvage the handle with a metric tap and die set but don't have one yet.
4) still want a suggestion on a liner or carpet for radio box space
Thanks!
Michael
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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Just drive a small screw driver into the remains and back it out. Did you have a copper gasket on it? This is NOT a pipe thread that seals as you get it tighter so the broken part will unscrew easily. That sender only drives the coolant temp gauge while the fans are controller but the cylinder head temp sensor at the rear of the cylinder head. Trust your torque wrench. If it leaks then clean up the surface and gasket, remove any burrs.

That handle requires a ball driver Allen.

From one of your other posts "Switched power" means the circuit is dead until the key is turned on. Most of us wire up a relay to this to drive our accessories so they will be off when the key is off.
 

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Thanks, that's super helpful. I'll look into the aux driving lights.
Also the tips on how to search this bike...super helpful!
What do you mean by switched and I switched charging ports?
The previous owner gave me a battery tender but never installed the pig tails to the battery so I did that and ran it to the center stand lift handle area.
Thanks
Unswitched means it's always hot. Like for instance that battery tender pigtail you just installed would be an unswitched connector. Switched means that power to the connection can be switched on and off. Most switched connections are linked to the ignition being on or off, but you can also trigger your switched connections from the alternator so that they are only hot when the bike is actually running.

You pulled out the radio to give you more storage space? Well, one of the connectors to the radio supplied the radio with switched power. If you want to put your USB socket in the old radio box, that circuit would be perfect since it's already there! Use a testing light or a multimeter to figger out which connector to use, cut off the BMW plug, and wire it up.

Here's a picture of mine after I pulled the radio. I don't know which of these connectors is the power, but if one of yours has just two wires connected to it, good chance that's the one.


171155


I'm assuming you know that a USB runs on 5 volts while the bike runs on 12 volts? All this means is that you need to buy a USB connector designed for use in 12v systems. These connectors have a step-down transformer built into them so that you have 12v in and 5v out. There's a million of them on Amazon like THIS ONE. Just search for "12 volt usb adapter for motorcycle".

On my bike, I connected the radio power to a Powerlet socket flush mounted in the cowling, then I plugged my USB gizmo into that. It supplies switched power to a rugged Android phone that I use for navigating.

171156
 

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Switched power feeds are on the purple / black which you will find all over the 'bike. Use it to trigger a relay for anything that pulls any current.
 

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Also for switched power, a lot of folks have used the power feed to the rear seat. Easy access and allows ample room to install a relay and auxiliary fuse box.
 

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1999 BMW k1200 LT
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Discussion Starter #26
Thanks Guys, the electrical explanations were super helpful and I feel like I can make some headway there. I'll look for the purple black wire and or use the multimeter to look for the hot wire coming into the radio wiring harness. I actually pulled out the whole harness since I wasn't planning on using the speakers on the bike. Am I correct in that I don't need anything from the radio wiring harness?
 

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Thanks Guys, the electrical explanations were super helpful and I feel like I can make some headway there. I'll look for the purple black wire and or use the multimeter to look for the hot wire coming into the radio wiring harness. I actually pulled out the whole harness since I wasn't planning on using the speakers on the bike. Am I correct in that I don't need anything from the radio wiring harness?
Yes. Good idea to use electrical tape to wrap and seal the ends of any open connectors left behind.
 

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2005 K1200LT
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Note that the violet black wire is only switched off when the handle bars are locked. Better to use the green/brown wire on the frame near the seat heat connection.
 

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Note that the violet black wire is only switched off when the handle bars are locked. Better to use the green/brown wire on the frame near the seat heat connection.
But that IS the off position! It shouldn't be left in ACC as the radio and lots of other stuff remain live. Easy way to a flat battery!
 

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2005 K1200LT
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But that IS the off position! It shouldn't be left in ACC as the radio and lots of other stuff remain live. Easy way to a flat battery!
Yes I know but I never lock my forks at home or on the trailer but I do turn the key past R as far as it will go and it does the same thing. Most of us use the green brown wire on this side of the pond because it is off in R.
 

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I would suggest changing your main rubber brake lines from the original rubber to the newer stainless steel line. It's not fun when you have a brake in the main line and lose your front brakes. It's an age thing, just like old tires.
 

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1999 BMW k1200 LT
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Discussion Starter #32
Guys thanks for all the feedback. I'll cave in and spend the money on the speigler brake lines. I pulled the radio and installed a liner and a lighted usb charger.
171249

Lighted USB with on/off switch installed in top section of stingray or cubby box. Wired to switched heated seet circuit.


171250

Plugged up the back end with the some plastic I had lying around, some rtv, and some duct tape. Didn't want to cut up the radio wiring harness to get the gasket, so made due with what I had. Happy to hear of other options.
171251


Also added a usb with volt meter under the light adjustment knob. I wired it to the map light...I'm willing to turn the key a bit more to turn that one off...also super easy to tap into the extra prong on the map light.
171252

I upgraded the instrument panel lights with blue led...super happy with the look!
No lights
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Original Instrument lights
171254

Led Blue
171255


Broke this stupid connector when searching for a hot wire to connect the usb. Do I just zip tie it in or replace it? Its from the 3 connectors left of the stingray above the fuel tank.

Discovered that this adjustment knob was broken on the rear left passenger floor board. Can I try to fix it with JB weld steel stick or should I look for a cheap replacement?
171258


171256

171257

Replaced the headlights with HID...both high and low...I know I can't flash as quickly if they aren't warmed up, but I don't flash my lights that often and at night you can flash quickly if they are warmed up based on my reading so I went for it. It was frustraing searching the fourms as instructions were lacking. A lot of the posts referenced great resources on the bmwlt.net...which apparently aren't migrated to here. Is there someone who saved all that save knowledge that could share a google drive link or update the current knowledge base here with that info???
The low beam was easy...the high beam was....special. Low beam was practially plug and play. The high beam I ended up cutting the wires, was suprised when the insulation was huge and the wire diameter was not. Ripped out the copper spring mechanism from the h3 bulb...it was a PITA and then put in the hid bulm with the metal harness, slid the cut wires through the two little holes and connected the wires again. Seems to have worked...Had to take the negative wire and connect it to the copper clip that holds the plastic base into the light fixture to ground it. I installed a grommet, but there is still room for water infiltration.
Do you guys just fill in the space with silicone?
I tried to put the ballasts on the ledge above the headlight, but as I tried to install the nose cone the left, when standing in front of the bike would hit something inside. So looking for some advice on high beam ballast placement. The right one for the low beam slides in fine.
Still wating for the coolant temperature sensor replacement from max bmw...I live in CT, they ship it to NJ via fedex in order to ship it to me...go figure! I should have driven to the store and picked it up myself. Also going to need some help dialing in the HID's. Read some posts about spacers necessary to get the light placement correct? Once I can drive the bike (coolant sensor) I'll try to dial in the lights. Thanks for all the help...I thought my KTM 300 was high maintenance....I've never learned so much in a short amount of time in my life! Thanks for all the help.
Michael
 

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2003 BMW K1200 LT (88K on 2020/08/13)
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Michael:
Sorry about being vague with HID change over, I take for granted that those of us who don't like what we have been given and want change will figure it out, for that assumption, I'm sorry. Glad you got it figured it out, I almost tried LED replacements for H7 nd H3, but thought the driver/cooling fan-fins might be too big to fit.

My ballasts came with a very thin sheet metal bracket, which I used to mount them back to back with spacers at the through hole screw points, to allow air flow. The bracket had a single obround hole at the top, which I used to hang both ballasts next to the headlight assembly using zip ties to tie everything up. Sorry couldn't take pictures that reallywould show well enough the application.
Joe
 

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1999 BMW k1200 LT
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Discussion Starter #34
Michael:
Sorry about being vague with HID change over, I take for granted that those of us who don't like what we have been given and want change will figure it out, for that assumption, I'm sorry. Glad you got it figured it out, I almost tried LED replacements for H7 nd H3, but thought the driver/cooling fan-fins might be too big to fit.

My ballasts came with a very thin sheet metal bracket, which I used to mount them back to back with spacers at the through hole screw points, to allow air flow. The bracket had a single obround hole at the top, which I used to hang both ballasts next to the headlight assembly using zip ties to tie everything up. Sorry couldn't take pictures that reallywould show well enough the application.
Joe
No worries Joe, the bracket with spacers gives me some ideas, I'll go see what parts I have lying around and see if I can fabricate something that works. Thanks!
 

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You guys both need to make sure the original rubber brake lines have been replaced by braided steel. If not do that soon.
There is the Speigler set for about $245 and then the set for about $150 on eBay: Kit brake hoses 1 Frentubo BMW K 1200 LT ABS 1997 > 2003 PINZA BREMBO. If they do the same thing, and both are stainless construction, is the Speigler set worth the additional $100?
 

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There is the Speigler set for about $245 and then the set for about $150 on eBay: Kit brake hoses 1 Frentubo BMW K 1200 LT ABS 1997 > 2003 PINZA BREMBO. If they do the same thing, and both are stainless construction, is the Speigler set worth the additional $100?
Further details on the Italian set:
Hoses Brake Kit 1 Frentubo BMW K 1200 LT ABS 1997 > 2003 PINZA BREMBO

Code: 100043-1

Number of hoses in the package: 5




Brake Hoses Kit aeronautical for motorcycle Frentubo Type 1.

The kit is complete with steel reinforced teflon tube with transparent coating and sheath, fittings and pins in stainless steel (unless specified otherwise).


The Brake Hose Kit is complete with all mounting bolts and mounting bolts and includes both front and rear hoses and fittings, complete with fittings, bolts and gaskets.The Fren Tubo Kit eliminates the annoying "lung" effect during motor braking, thus improving the power and sensitivity of the front and rear brakes. Aircraft brake tubes considerably improve the braking system of the bike. Designed for specific use in Superbike, Supersport, Moto 2, Moto3 and MotoGP, this type of hoses has a remarkable yield and are an important change to be made to any kind of motorcycle brakes. The kits are specifically designed for the specified bike, so assembly does not require any modification, all are TUV and DOT certified. The kit includes the mounting kit and, where applicable, the installation instructions. The hose may be required coated in the following colors:


Technical Specifications for kit TYPE 1 :

• Stainless steel braid hose with external sheath and steel fittings with ZINC NICHEL treatment (DIN 50021-s standard: 480 hours without red rust appearance).

• Conforms to FMVSS 106 standards.

• Minimum burst pressure: 827 bar.

In the case of racing Brembo or Accossato Racing aftermarket radial pumps it is necessary to be indicated in order notes We recommend always using brake fluid type Dot 4 compatible with all brake pumps, and above all of the excellent brands of the Brembo, Castrol, Motul type, taken from a sealed bottle. We do not recommend using Dot 5 or Dot 5.1 oils as they are perfectly compatible with Frentubo but they are not compatible with the gaskets of most brake pumps.

If there are no specific indications, the kit is shipped with original front brake pump attachment and with transparent jacket as in photo, specifications must be sent at time of order, no work is processed, changes sent later.


Brake / Clutch Kit Tubes no "Standard", with custom colorings, are made exclusively for the customer,this is a customization, so it is not possible to replace them even to render them.
 

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I would suggest changing your main rubber brake lines from the original rubber to the newer stainless steel line. It's not fun when you have a brake in the main line and lose your front brakes. It's an age thing, just like old tires.
Please check out the earlier alternative for Ital Racings version of the stainless brake lines. Same question - is the Speigler set worth the extra hundred bucks?
 

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Please check out the earlier alternative for Ital Racings version of the stainless brake lines. Same question - is the Speigler set worth the extra hundred bucks?
I have not tried this specific kit from "Ital racing", but in general I would say I have been disapointed with unknown vendors for aftermarket parts (BMW or other brands). In 18 years on many BMW forums, I have never heard of "Ital racing" or "Frentubo". If I was you , I would stick with what is known to fit AND-OR has been used many times by the community here AND-OR the vendor is close by so you can exchange / discuss the non-fitment issues (if any).

I know at least a 100 (one hundred) of K1200RS and K1200LT owner having installed Spiegler brake hose kit and these have not failed yet to my knowledge. I have personnaly seen only ONE single Speigler kit where one of the hose was manufactured about 1/2 (one half) inch too short compare to another similar kit - a minor production error - but certainly not common for Speigler.
 
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There is the Speigler set for about $245 and then the set for about $150 on eBay: Kit brake hoses 1 Frentubo BMW K 1200 LT ABS 1997 > 2003 PINZA BREMBO. If they do the same thing, and both are stainless construction, is the Speigler set worth the additional $100?
I, and many others here, have used Speigler kits and know they are high quality and work well. The few times I have tried new and unproven vendors, have typically not ended well (my most recent was pivot bearings from EME). It is your money and it is always nice to have folks try new suppliers as a service to the community, so if you feel like being a beta tester and have $150 to throw away, I’d say give them a shot and let us know. If you just want to have reliable brake lines that will last the remaining life of your LT, buy the Speigler set.
 

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One thing about Spiegler, they advertise that their brake hoses have "a patented fitting torsion system that eliminates line twist." Sounds like marketing hype, but it's not. What it means is that the banjo on one end of each line can be rotated 360° (takes a lot of effort but it will never leak) so that when you do the install you can get the line to follow the curve that you want. I've bought brake hoses in the past from other manufacturers where the hose was the right length, and the banjos were correct but in the wrong orientation. Rotate that banjo by 90° to mount it and the hose develops a weird twist or even a kink.

I'll take the Spieglers every time, thank you very much. 😎
 
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