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Discussion Starter #1
I am having great difficulties getting my old crash bars off to fit my J-pegs.
The bike is a '99 and showed signs of rust in these areas, but I can not understand how metal can weld itself so hard!
I have cut one metal tip over bar in half - still not enough leverage to free it.
Will heat work?
Anyone else had a problem similar?
 

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As I recall my tip over bar was hollow. If you have yours cut can you squirt some WD40 up in and around the opening it goes into? Something else to try is rapping on it with a metal hammer to see if that will break it loos. Not so sure about heat but I don't think it could make it worse.
 

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When I took mine of there was a little bolt on the underside. Could you use a scissor jackk carefully between the engine and guard?

Regards
 

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I started loosening my '99's bars with a hammer and screwdriver. Wedged the tip of the screwdriver between the bar and ... what it slides into. I then used a small nail removing tool (pictured). The tool has a groove that will seat itself onto the round of the bar and the back end is flat and can be hit, easily, with a hammer. As the bar moved slowly out from ... what it slides into, i moved the tool to the other end of the bar such that both sides extracted themselves equally. Little by little the bars eventually slid free.
 

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Did you remove the bolt that holds it in place? It's in the front of the forward pin here the bar inserts into the subframe.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yep, removed bolt, bashed with hammers, screw drivers, angle gound one in half (half came off), sprayed with WD40 and gasplus.
Worried about the amount of bashing the frame will take - I am really bashing it now!!
 

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c00k1e said:
Yep, removed bolt, bashed with hammers, screw drivers, angle gound one in half (half came off), sprayed with WD40 and gasplus.
Worried about the amount of bashing the frame will take - I am really bashing it now!!
I suggest more patience and less persperation. WD40 isn't the greatest penetrant. Get some real penetrating fluid. Apply a little every few hours or a couple of times a day. Go do something else and give it a squirt every once in a while. Give it a tug and a wiggle every once in a while. Put a heat gun or a mild torch to it (beware of fumes generated by heating the penetrating fluid). You'll eventually get it apart; giving a true penetrating fluid time to work is an important part of the process. HTH
 

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Could you drill a hole down the center of the crash bar after you cut them in half? Then stick a philips screwdriver in it. Twist and pull at the same time.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The 3 ends stick in are now soaking in GasPlus (penetrating oil)
Tomorrow I will do the screwdriver idea - I like that one - Thanks all
 

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c00k1e said:
The 3 ends stick in are now soaking in GasPlus (penetrating oil)
Tomorrow I will do the screwdriver idea - I like that one - Thanks all
If you cut the OEM part in two so you can rotate the fore and aft parts independently, I wouldn't bother with drilling a hole. That'd take time, wear out the drill bit, and weaken the part. I'd just grab the part with a good (real) ViseGrip and use that to apply rotational force. HTH and Have Fun!
 

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THE penetrating oil you want is called PB Blaster.

Maybe you could rig up a hose clamp on the crash bar and use a slide hammer to kick it loose.

You're sure you got that bolt out.:) :D ;)

If it's bent that might also be causing you some issues. Seems like I had problems with one on mine that was slightly bent.

Just have patience...

John
 

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Discussion Starter #12
OK thanks all - one side done. Mainly 'cos I cut the OEMs in half.
But on the other side I went and cut one far longedr than the other (did this one first you see)
No leverage left. It seriously looks welded

Only thing left that I can see is to cut it tight up and eat away with whats inside with a dremmel. I really don't fancy that!
Any last ideas?
The side that is done is fitted with the J-pegs and they look sweat!
 

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So what bit is left? Left/right front or back? Think you are right about cutting it of but I would use a proper drill rather than dremel. Also use an angle grinder to get the old on of - maybe even leave it a little proud and grind it down to get some heat into the joint.

Can you take the mounting piece of the frame and install it in a vice?

Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Its the left back one. one the other side the tightest was the frount.
I had dropped it 3 times on the left, so it may be a bit bent!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I'm going to cut it flush with the angle grinder and drill the remainder with a 14mm HSS bit. That will shift it!

Q - for those with Jpegs: Is it a pain to heat up the Jpeg bolts to remove the Jpegs to remove the plastic every time? Or don't you bother with the locktite?
 
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