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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well went and picked this up today. 725.00 and probably 60.00 in gas. Too good to pass up and as bad as I wanted a Handy SAM, money came into it this time.

I like it a lot, but need to do the ramp wood blocks thing as I do just nip it on and off. Anyone have a sketch or formula to figure that out? I used to know pitch and rise but that was 35 years ago and I plain just forget.

Anyway as I said it was the best solution for me to have to park on. 93" long was a big attraction also.

Greg Smith is a pretty cool place, nice facility and they were lined up for 4 post this and 2 post that, is way big, and they needed trailers. The toe motor driver was just a flat out master. We watched him pick a bolt head up to move a big lift of some type, farther into a truck, and we were amazed.

I know you guys like pics:




All that is needed to run it up, needed set down to 100 PSI


Hmmmmmm


My Helper

 

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Hey, Very nice lift and photos. Showed the pics to my SO. Birthday coming soon.Maybe I get lucky. I travel to York PA often, so where did you buy the lift?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
jvalny said:
Hey, Very nice lift and photos. Showed the pics to my SO. Birthday coming soon.Maybe I get lucky. I travel to York PA often, so where did you buy the lift?
I got it at the Delaware Location. It was about 82 Miles each way from me, 283, to 30 Lancaster, to 41 Gap, 10, to 286 I think.

http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/category-s/44.htm
 

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Ramp wood blocks

I'm a little slow, what do you mean when you were talking about the ramp and wood blocks?

I just retired from one job and now get to ride my LT every day to work at the new one, so I'm going to be doing a lot more service on it. I'll have to park my bike on the lift if I were to get one. Any issues I should be aware of?
 

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Lee, why not just set a carpenters square next to the ramp and then lift ramp to the desired angle and then read the rise directly from the square. This should give you the run and pitch you need.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
rab1967 said:
I'm a little slow, what do you mean when you were talking about the ramp and wood blocks?

I just retired from one job and now get to ride my LT every day to work at the new one, so I'm going to be doing a lot more service on it. I'll have to park my bike on the lift if I were to get one. Any issues I should be aware of?
Just need to make an extended ramp that will raise the ramps and make the transition from the ground, to the steel ramps, to the lift a little less severe. It just nicks going over the top of the ramps to the flat of the lift. I have also compounded the problem a bit by putting the lift on a 4x8 sheet of ply wood.

Should be no big deal and I am going to mess with it a bit today.

I had thought someone had a formula or a sketch or picture with dimensions.

This is not an issue with this lift, but it seems it happens with many styles and the LT.
 

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One thing you want to remember when designing your extended ramp is that when you back down off the lift you need sturdy footing so be certain that you design in enough width to allow for that. I have been going off and on my lift for a couple of years now and yes it will just touch as rear wheel starts up the ramp but it does not upset the bike or cause any damage so I have chosen not to do anything about the ramp. However lengthening the ramp no more than 3-4 inches would do the trick, a simple and inexpensive method would be to use a 2"X6"X4' (pressure treated would be my choice), notch the back edge to go under the ramp 1 to 1-1/2 inches and deep enough so that the ramp would lay down in the notch and be flush, then taper the balance of the width to the leading edge leaving about 1/4" of thickness to maintain integrity. What I have described will lift the leading edge of the metal ramp just over an inch and start the rear wheel up the ramp about 4 inches sooner allowing clearance as you ascend.
Good luck!!


LAF said:
Just need to make an extended ramp that will raise the ramps and make the transition from the ground, to the steel ramps, to the lift a little less severe. It just nicks going over the top of the ramps to the flat of the lift. I have also compounded the problem a bit by putting the lift on a 4x8 sheet of ply wood.

Should be no big deal and I am going to mess with it a bit today.

I had thought someone had a formula or a sketch or picture with dimensions.

This is not an issue with this lift, but it seems it happens with many styles and the LT.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thank you so much for the help.

I just went out and cut a 24"x96" pc ply wood in half

I lifted the middle ramp up and and put a 24x48 the length to touch the 4x8 the jack is sitting on. I then went down and it cleared. Now I put the other 24x48 on it extender in the rear. I stood on it and put shims under it until it did not rock. I will take it to my shop teacher and we will glue shims the length, plain both exposed edges to flush, cut the top board to accept the ramp, and then I will prime, and then paint it black and call it a day. Should be close enough

The cut for the top board was what I was needing and you supplied that and I thank you.

So now another COST to this lift.

I need to be able to lock the bike upright without help.

I just cant get Oscar, my work partner to turn that crank when I am ready :rolleyes:

So that means a Condor. I see you can get them in the 140 range for trailer version only and that is what I want.

Unless I am stupid in how to do it.

I thought of side stand into the vise, crank the vise a little, go over and pull the strap a little tighter, vise again, repeat until it is up and tight, seems tedious, and not sure it is a safe way or not?

I still love the lift and it came with ever thing, including a nice dolly to move it around, and I really cant blame it for not being able to handle an LT.

The other issue is the center stand and how it moves the entire bike back. I think I may be able to overcome that with mounting of the Condor, fold it open in the rear, go past the needed distance, raise the bike, and fold the back of the Condor in place.

If not I will use this if I need it off the center stand:
http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/PhotoGallery.asp?ProductCode=TPBJ

I would appreciate yours and everyones experiences and thoughts on does and don't with an LT on a lift.

Thanks for the reply.

[jdunique]One thing you want to remember when designing your extended ramp is that when you back down off the lift you need sturdy footing so be certain that you design in enough width to allow for that. I have been going off and on my lift for a couple of years now and yes it will just touch as rear wheel starts up the ramp but it does not upset the bike or cause any damage so I have chosen not to do anything about the ramp. However lengthening the ramp no more than 3-4 inches would do the trick, a simple and inexpensive method would be to use a 2"X6"X4' (pressure treated would be my choice), notch the back edge to go under the ramp 1 to 1-1/2 inches and deep enough so that the ramp would lay down in the notch and be flush, then taper the balance of the width to the leading edge leaving about 1/4" of thickness to maintain integrity. What I have described will lift the leading edge of the metal ramp just over an inch and start the rear wheel up the ramp about 4 inches sooner allowing clearance as you ascend.
Good luck!!
 

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Improving Lift designs

Reading the information about the lift and ideas to improve same were
interesting. Please consider the following improvements I made to my HANDYLIFT 1000 and, possibly to other lift designs:

WINGS: I built side 'wings' attached to my lift. I used 8 foot long, two-by-eights and attached short sections of two-by-sixes on edge under the two-by-eight to create a 'L'. The interior edge of each wing is attached to the vertical skirt of the lift top. I used a sliding dovetail design with half of the joint attached to the lift vertical skirt. This half of the wood joint (full length of the lift skirt) is attached to the skirt via countersunk socket head cap screws (10-32) into skirt tapped holes. The other half of the eight foot joint (either 'dove' or 'pin') is screwed/glued to the interior edge of each wing.

RAMP: The width of the ramp is designed for 1/2" clearance between each wing. The final coat on the ramp top and wings is sand mixed into paint. Consider adding eight inch wide sections of ribbed rubber mat contact cemented to the ramp before priming/painting. The rubber mat can also be added to the OEM removable lift top plate which ends up under the rear tire.

Here's the ramp design for a HANDY LIFT 1000: four feet total length divided into three sections...the first rise/run goes up five inches by eighteen inches. Next, is a eighteen inch long, flat region followed by the final section rising two inches. The sides of the ramp are two-by material. The ramp top is 3/4" ply joined at two edge locations via 'biscuits' and Titebond III glue...use your own joint design. Ramp height at the interior end matches the down position height of my lift, i.e., seven inches. Adjust ramp height for other lifts as required...there is no need to complicate the issue with fusssing over rise/run calculations! With this design, center stand clearance to the lift top disappears.

CAUTION:

WHEN DESIGNING 'WINGS' AND THEIR ATTACHMENT TO THE LIFT, AVOID RESTING THE INTERIOR WING EDGES ONTO SHELVES ATTACHED TO THE LIFT VERTICAL SKIRTS! DURING ENTRANCE ONTO THE LIFT, FEET PLACED ONTO THE WINGS EXERT LATERAL FORCE WHICH COULD CAUSE ONE OR BOTH WINGS TO ROTATE UP AND AWAY FROM THE LIFT! ALSO, USE TEMPORARY CLIPS OR WHATEVER TO ANCHOR THE WINGS, THUS PREVENTING FORWARD/AFT MOTION...I USED BALL LOCK PINS IN MY DESIGN FOR RAPID ATTACHMENT/REMOVAL.
ALSO, ENCLOSE THE LEADING END OF THE WINGS WITH A MINIATURE RAMP-TYPE SHAPE...THIS PREVENTS FEET FROM BECOMING ENTRAPPED DURING RAMP ENTRANCE.

The ramp is divided into three sections because it allows one to stop with the rear tire temporarily positioned on the horizontal region of the ramp while assessing where the front tire is with respect to the opened vise jaws at the lift front (when so equipped). Once front tire positioning is visually determined, the final trip forward into the vise is a piece of cake! The clutch will thank you profusely for the intermediate, horizontal ramp section!
I used Aluminum rain gutter nail spikes cut and bent at each end to go into the ramp top and trailing end of the lift top...adjust the angle at each end accordingly and position drilled holes for the spikes as required.

If you want to really get fancy on the HANDY LIFT 1000, you can remove the wings before raising the lift and attach home-built sliding tool trays! Build two, three foot long sliding tool trays equipped with the same half of the sliding dovetail joint as used on the wings. My tool trays are two-by-fours hollowed out with a router into three dissimilar lengths according to preceived tools, etc. You'll be surprised how handy these tool trays are and they also prevent 'stuff' from rolling off the lift top! Yes, I'm aware of accessories for lifts...frugality drove me to design/build my own trays and wings.

HANDY LIFT 1000 TOP IMPROVEMENT:

I also added a piece of 1/4" metal doubler attached to the top of my lift to increase rigidity...the square doubler is slightly narrower than the lift top. The doubler has four, drilled/tapped holes secured to the lift top with bolts projecting up through the lift top...use washers under the bolt heads and bolt lengths flush with the doubler top surface. Round over the edges of the doubler with a grinder and position the doubler so it is centered under the LT center stand when deployed...my 05 LT moves about 8" rearward. I also drilled additional holes in the lift top to re-position the vise rearward to address this issue.

The plate is added because I was uncomfortable with the LT's weight concentrated on one position...way too much lift top deflection when the bike is rocked right/left!

Hope the above information is helpful. Should anyone wish additional information, PM me. Happy New Year everyone!

Terry
 

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Use of the Wheel Clamp

Lee
When using the clamp on the front wheel first I step up onto the lift and stand the bike upright then balancing the bike with my right hand on the left grip I step off the lift and close the clamp with my left hand. The bike balances easily as long as you don't let it move much and as soon as the clamp is closed against the tire I rock the bike slightly, not much just a little side to side to make sure the wheel is secure in the clamp then tighten, it does not have to be killer tight only a coulple of turns of the screw once you have confirmed that it is secure. As far as use of the center stand I roll the bike into the clamp (be easy going in and make sure that you do not bang into the brake rotors), put the side stand down, step off the bike but remain on the lift I then set the bike up straight and using my right foot put the center stand down, I stop here and rock the bike slightly to assure that I have both feet of the stand down against the lift and then up and on the center stand. getting it up on the center stand does not require much effort it is just a matter of learning the technique. Since yours is an 07 I think you have the power center stand making it much easier yet.
If you are worried about lifting the bike up while only setting on the center stand with the wheel not clamped then use a couple of tie down straps and a couple of soft ties attached in the same manner as described in the tie down procedure use the outer edge of the extension ramps to secure the staps to. I have used this method many times although, to be honest, I use the straps to secure a Harley or other cruiser that has no center stand but rarely do so for the LT it stands very sturdy on the center stand and has never even wobbled during normal maintenance the only time I tie the back end down is when I am removing the front wheel to replace the tire. I do so then as described in that same tie down procedure using the soft ties around the support framework under the saddlebags securing it again to the edge of the extension framework, I have never had a problem with this method.
I have been using this type of lift for more years than I care to talk about and have done just about every kind of maintenance you can think of on most makes of motorcycles while on one without any problems of any kind so I am sure that you will find it to be one of the best tools you have ever had to aid you in the maintenance of your bike.
Jim




LAF said:
Thank you so much for the help.

I just went out and cut a 24"x96" pc ply wood in half

I lifted the middle ramp up and and put a 24x48 the length to touch the 4x8 the jack is sitting on. I then went down and it cleared. Now I put the other 24x48 on it extender in the rear. I stood on it and put shims under it until it did not rock. I will take it to my shop teacher and we will glue shims the length, plain both exposed edges to flush, cut the top board to accept the ramp, and then I will prime, and then paint it black and call it a day. Should be close enough

The cut for the top board was what I was needing and you supplied that and I thank you.

So now another COST to this lift.

I need to be able to lock the bike upright without help.

I just cant get Oscar, my work partner to turn that crank when I am ready :rolleyes:

So that means a Condor. I see you can get them in the 140 range for trailer version only and that is what I want.

Unless I am stupid in how to do it.

I thought of side stand into the vise, crank the vise a little, go over and pull the strap a little tighter, vise again, repeat until it is up and tight, seems tedious, and not sure it is a safe way or not?

I still love the lift and it came with ever thing, including a nice dolly to move it around, and I really cant blame it for not being able to handle an LT.

The other issue is the center stand and how it moves the entire bike back. I think I may be able to overcome that with mounting of the Condor, fold it open in the rear, go past the needed distance, raise the bike, and fold the back of the Condor in place.

If not I will use this if I need it off the center stand:
http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/PhotoGallery.asp?ProductCode=TPBJ

I would appreciate yours and everyones experiences and thoughts on does and don't with an LT on a lift.

Thanks for the reply.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the reply. I thought it would have to be side stand and then working of the vise. Your method probably will work nicely after a time or two going through it.

My issue is I like the center stand but would ALSO like the front wheel locked in, Don't see how I am going to get that, so vise and straps, or center stand and straps, are going to be my only choices.

I just never worked on a lift table, and it is really a new concept to me. I am a bit intimidated by its mass, and its ability to lift the bike so easily and fast. I know I have to watch it or it will embed my trunk into the ceiling in a hurry. Also a bit skirmish on the center stand, on plate steel, and worry of the sliding aspect.

I broke my back in 89, in 3 places and bent over work just kills me. And stretching and straining while laying on the ground was just not making it for me on this bike.

A lot of odds and ends to get on including new shocks, so need to be familiar and ready when I get the opportunity.

Thank you all for the replies and helping me sort out the do's and dont's of LT Table Lifting
 

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Working on a lift

Lee
I understand the hesitancy but time and experience will get you through that, you mentioned the trunk and the ceiling, if your ceiling height is low enough that you can in fact contact it you might want to think about adding a stop to the mechanism in the lift to prevent that happening, in my experience if it can happen sooner or later it will!
One other thing worth mentioning is the antenna on the bike, mine has both the radio and the CB antenna's and I carefully bend and tuck the end through the opposite side of the luggage rack on the trunk in a criss cross fashion being careful not to scratch the surfaces, I have been doing that for a couple of years and have not damaged anything but be careful cause if you bend them too sharply they will break however bending them against the ceiling will break them also.
Jim
 
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