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A quick question... When wanting to change oil in the gear box, you have to remove an attachment for the exhaust. When removed and looking toward the front of the bike, which way should I turn my wrench to unbolt the oil bolt? clock wise or counter clock? Thank you
 

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A quick question... When wanting to change oil in the gear box, you have to remove an attachment for the exhaust. When removed and looking toward the front of the bike, which way should I turn my wrench to unbolt the oil bolt? clock wise or counter clock? Thank you
You do have to remove the exhaust attachment and you go counter clock wise to losen the bolt
 

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2011 R1200RT
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Lefty loosey! ;)
 

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A quick question... When wanting to change oil in the gear box, you have to remove an attachment for the exhaust. When removed and looking toward the front of the bike, which way should I turn my wrench to unbolt the oil bolt? clock wise or counter clock? Thank you
It's a standard thread - counterclockwise to loosen. The bolt is not that easy to access, but having a ratchet socket with 10mm Hex may help. I do it with an L Hex wrench. Also, if you have the hydraulick center stand, you will have to remove that as well.

You can imagine the bike upside-down and turning the wrench counterclockwise.
Keep in mind: when the screw is mounted from the bottom and you are looking at it from the top - it will be backwards.
BJ
 

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14 mm hex
 

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I am having a devil of a time removing my drain plug too.

I did the first 4 but then didn't have a garage so had the indy do it. When time for the next change, I couldn't get it loose so took it back to the indy to change. He is now closed and I still can't get the drain plug out for this change. I have tried hitting the wrench with a hammer as an impact but it ain't moving either way - engine either hot or cold.

A longer ratcheting wrench might help with more leverage.
I'm thinking I'll have to siphon it out.
Any other ideas?
 

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I am having a devil of a time removing my drain plug too.

I did the first 4 but then didn't have a garage so had the indy do it. When time for the next change, I couldn't get it loose so took it back to the indy to change. He is now closed and I still can't get the drain plug out for this change. I have tried hitting the wrench with a hammer as an impact but it ain't moving either way - engine either hot or cold.

A longer ratcheting wrench might help with more leverage.
I'm thinking I'll have to siphon it out.
Any other ideas?
The first time I did mine I was in the same position as you. I took the handle or pole from a floor jack and put it on the socket handle for leverage. Slowly it came loose. When I put it back on I made a point to not over tighten. It never leaked and was much easier to get off from then on. It'd probably be real tough to siphon out that gear oil.
 

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I didn't take the center stand off either, and used a 30-inch long, 3/4 inch diameter galvanized pipe for leverage and it came right off... :bmw:
 

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I have not been able to find a helper bar at home that is large enough to fit over either end of the wrench. I think this guy just puts it on way to tight. Last change when I couldn't loosen it he even loaned me his "special tool" which was longer than my wrench and I still couldn't get it off so I took it to him to change.

So lets go over it again. I'm laying on the brake side of the bike on my back with my head toward the front tire. Put in the hex socket, attach the wrench, and push towards the other side of the bike, counter clock wise as I'm laying on my back. I can't get it to go the other way either.
 

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It is only on with 55 Nm or about 40 ftlbs but even with that done properly it can be a bear to break it loose.
 
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I use this on my 3/8" breaker bar and it works great to break it free and then I just throw it on a ratchet for the rest. I can use my torque wrench with it as well to get it properly torqued. I do not need to remove my hydraulic center stand.

Tool was found on eBay.

Draper 38327 14mm Hex. 3/8 Sq. Drive Drain Plug Key
 

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I'm using the 14 mm hex socket that comes in the three pack from Auto Zone. Too long to get a breaker bar or socket on under it in the space available.

I just got a Rube Goldberg idea - attach the open end to the 14 mm hex, and then use another 14mm hex in the closed end of the wrench, attaching another 14 mm wrench at 90 degrees to the first wench to give more leverage - it that made any sense. Now if I can find that 14 mm hex I lost last year somewhere in the garage...

o-----o
|
|
o
 

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I would not put the open end on the hex better if you put the closed end on it so you do not slip on the hex at that point I would find a 2 foot pipe that went over the open end of the wrench
 

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So lets go over it again. I'm laying on the brake side of the bike on my back with my head toward the front tire. Put in the hex socket, attach the wrench, and push towards the other side of the bike, counter clock wise as I'm laying on my back. I can't get it to go the other way either.[/QUOTE]

I think since you are looking at it from the bottom you are going the wrong way. Lay with your head towards the rear wheel and pull the wrench towards you. Since you are upside down I think your motion goes clockwise. If your bike was on the side the same motion would in fact be counter clockwise. Does that make sense?
 

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So lets go over it again. I'm laying on the brake side of the bike on my back with my head toward the front tire. Put in the hex socket, attach the wrench, and push towards the other side of the bike, counter clock wise as I'm laying on my back. I can't get it to go the other way either.
QUOTED BY Marty I think since you are looking at it from the bottom you are going the wrong way. Lay with your head towards the rear wheel and pull the wrench towards you. Since you are upside down I think your motion goes clockwise. If your bike was on the side the same motion would in fact be counter clockwise. Does that make sense?[/QUOTE]

Marty I think you are wrong upside down on its side you are still going counter clock wise but you are right if he has his head towards rear bike and hand is between the rear tire and the center stand with wrench on the hex bolt he has to pull it towards him Remember lefty lossey and righty tighty:bmw:
 

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If you are unsure as to which way to turn the wrench to loosen the plug try this for visual reference: Take with you on the floor a bolt and matching nut, any size will do, and place the nut on the bottom of the transmission, then try to "screw" the bolt onto the nut. It can only go one way. You need to go in the opposite direction to "unscrew" the drain plug. Voila!:D
 
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With spanner or ratchet handle to the left of you, to undo a sump bolt then push the handle away from you, pull if handle to the right of the bolt.
 

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Get a good long handle socket wrench set it to loosen only. One time I had a dealer do it, Igor put it on so tight I had to use a 4 foot hollow tube over the socket wrench handle to get enough leverage to break it free. The was such a loud crack I thought I broke it. Dealer never touched my bike after that.
 

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Forgot to mention, I'm left handed so I sometimes have do things backwards to y'all "normals". Glad I got everyone confused.
 
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