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Discussion Starter #1
When I power on the RT, before hitting the engine start button, I hear some mechanical clunking and squeaking from what sounds like the lower part of the engine (it’s not the fuel pump). The bike’s done this since I’ve had it and I believe my ‘12 made the same sounds. BTW, the bike’s running just fine - I’m just curious as to what those sounds are. Anyone have a clue?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Excellent - thanks for the education!
 

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Excellent - thanks for the education!
If it is squeaking that normally means its going to fail soon. Flap replacement means new headers at £1200 in the UK. I had one set just out of warranty, then the flap started to squeak again 3 weeks before my 2 year warranty on the replacement headers ran out, so they replaced the headers again. If it does seize, it normally sticks open. Just whip off the silencer and the exhaust flap cover and free it off.
 

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Mine started to squeak at about 4,000 miles. While I was having new tires installed I mentioned this to the guys doing the replacement. They'd removed the silencer for rear wheel access which exposes the flapper valve. One of the guys put a small dab of anti-sieze compound on each end of the flapper. The lube worked into the critical area over the next week or so. Haven't heard a peep out of it in the year since then.
 

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Mine started to squeak at about 4,000 miles. While I was having new tires installed I mentioned this to the guys doing the replacement. They'd removed the silencer for rear wheel access which exposes the flapper valve. One of the guys put a small dab of anti-sieze compound on each end of the flapper. The lube worked into the critical area over the next week or so. Haven't heard a peep out of it in the year since then.
Mine started to squeak at about 4,000 miles. While I was having new tires installed I mentioned this to the guys doing the replacement. They'd removed the silencer for rear wheel access which exposes the flapper valve. One of the guys put a small dab of anti-sieze compound on each end of the flapper. The lube worked into the critical area over the next week or so. Haven't heard a peep out of it in the year since then.
I have been nursing a 2015 bike with 49k miles the flap was seized open. It took me a good hour and a half to free it. Put heat resistant lube on it and greased the mechanism on the top. But it still squeaks again after a week or so, so think it is done. The thing is, if you can't hear it squeaking it might already be stuck open, even if you listen you can hear the servo trying to close it. The only way to know if it's working is either take off the silencer and look or the cover off the mechanism to see it move. The other option is plug in a GS911 as the flapper will throw a fault code if stuck.
 

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"The only way to know if it's working is either take off the silencer and look or the cover off the mechanism to see it move. The other option is plug in a GS911 as the flapper will throw a fault code if stuck."

Don't know if my case is universal, but my valve gives an audible clue during its pre-start check. Since my flapper got the anti-seize treatment, when I turn on power I hear a soft "zip-click; zip-click" at it cycles to the two extremes.
 

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"The only way to know if it's working is either take off the silencer and look or the cover off the mechanism to see it move. The other option is plug in a GS911 as the flapper will throw a fault code if stuck."

Don't know if my case is universal, but my valve gives an audible clue during its pre-start check. Since my flapper got the anti-seize treatment, when I turn on power I hear a soft "zip-click; zip-click" at it cycles to the two extremes.
My point is, even if the valve is stuck you still hear the servo go, click click, where it is trying to turn the valve, so it sounds very similar to as if the valve is moving. So for my first one that stuck, I didn't know it was stuck, because I could hear the click of the servo, I only knew it was stuck because the garage reported a flap fault code. Your probably fine, from squeak to stuck can be a while. Its just the one on the bike I am using at the moment (job bike), it was stuck for a long while, so even though I freed it and its free now, it will stick again
 

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My point is, even if the valve is stuck you still hear the servo go, click click, where it is trying to turn the valve, so it sounds very similar to as if the valve is moving. So for my first one that stuck, I didn't know it was stuck, because I could hear the click of the servo, I only knew it was stuck because the garage reported a flap fault code. Your probably fine, from squeak to stuck can be a while. Its just the one on the bike I am using at the moment (job bike), it was stuck for a long while, so even though I freed it and its free now, it will stick again
The "zip-click" sure sounds to me like something moving and reaching a stop but, as my wife so often reminds me, I may be wrong. Fortunately I check for fault codes on my GS-911. So far, so good.
 

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Mine too had seized, but after shifting the valve with penetrating lube, a heat gun, and some careful work on the mechanism it moved. Then, a lot of exercising the shaft (disconnected from the servo) and working Molybdenum lube into the shaft, it worked like new. It thankfully still is.
However, even if it didn't, they tend to seize in the open position. I had noticed NO difference in fuel consumption, torque, rideability with it stuck. So my advice to anyone is check if it is stuck in the open position, then by all means try to free it up, but don't lose any sleep OR MONEY over it. The bike works fine.
 
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