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Pre-sale question -- 2014 R1200RT

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3K views 24 replies 15 participants last post by  cfi 
#1 ·
Looking at picking up a used R1200RT and found one that appears to have been well kept and looks to be in great condition from the pictures. However, it has 106k miles on it, so I wanted to see what I should be looking for when I go test ride it this afternoon?

This is my first BMW and first bike of this size so just looking for a little guidance before I end up with a money bit of a bike.

Thanks in advance.








 
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#3 ·
Ask if the exhaust flap is working, if not and there will be no visible warning, its new headers circa £1200 if not under warranty. Ask if the Stator/Alternator has been changed, they are a week point on the 2014/2015 models. If they stop charging the battery, it is an engine out job, we had one repaired on one of our 2014 RTps and the cost was over £2k. Last one, ensure the suspension recall was completed, all 2014 bikes were recalled, but should think it would have been done. Also check the electronic suspension is working, that is very expensive to fix as well. Personally I would go for a newer bike and a lot less miles. 2014 was the first model year.
 
#4 ·
Thanks for this detailed response and information. That’s a lot to worry about and check and not positive dealer selling it would have all those details on what’s been fixed and/or replaced over the years. If it’s a local bike it might be possible to check the local Honda shop to see if they worked on it over the years.
Based off this info I’ll likely lean towards something with a lot less miles, this one just caught my eye….mostly off price alone lol
 
#7 ·
I would go with @casbar 's take, more or less. If I already OWNED a 2014, and had 100k+ miles of good service with it, I'd be comfortable running it out to another 50K or so.

But, as mentioned, 2014 was the first model year. Some serious faults were corrected on that year through sometime in 2015. So, I avoided the 2014-2015 altogether, but again, that's mostly personal preference, no one's absolute rule. The "Wetheads" ran from 2014-2018, and there was a transmission mod done in 2017. So, my target (and oh yeah, budget too) moved from to the 2017-2018 range, but anything 2016-2018 should pretty much be bug free. The alternator issue has (as far as I can determine), a rare event, so like any other vehicle, you're assuming risks. Replacing it requires a full engine tear down, since it's mounted internally (I'd like to meet the drunk German engineer to made that little decision for BMW 🙄 I'm sure lubrication and cooling, and the impact on the alternator's performance and lifespan, came into the picture, but still ...). The biggest remaining risk with this model year bike is rocker arm and cams (see attached). It appears BMW didn't actually alter the part with the known material defect until early 2018, even though they knew about it from at least the 2014 model release. (Not happy with that, since my 2018 may have the old parts.)

Again, every bike has it's mechanical strengths and weaknesses. The problem with Beemer owners is that a lot of us are either hobbyists or engineers. As consumers, we know WAY too much, sometimes. I have a 2014 Ford Edge, and being one of those problem owners, I know all about how the water pump is (like the R1200RT's alternator) mounted INTERNALLY in the engine. Any water pump failure generally torches the engine because coolant leaks into the engine oil before the typical owner sees serious symptoms or engine codes. (Also, to R&R the spark plugs, coils, PCV valve, and O2 sensors, the intake manifold must be removed, adding $hours$ to the simple maintenance effort). At times, I think BMW engineers are subbing out to help Ford with their engine designs. 🙄😫.

But anyhow, look for a 2016-2018 (at least, no older than 2015) if you're targeting a Wethead (i.e. the 2010-2013 models are also R1200RT's, but different engineering, no radiator, different issues), and I'd try to keep the mileage down to about 30K miles. You can spend a bit more money now, and ride more, or spend it later, and ride less while it's in the shop (or you're working on it in your garage). However, it's tough to get into these things for "free". Now, I might take a flyer on a 2015, with say, 60K miles, for something like $6K USD, but I wouldn't overspend on an older bike. A pretty bike can be very deceiving.

(Attached is a technical report on the rocker arm flaws ...)
 

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#10 ·
BMW made some changes for the 2013 model year. There were some significant problems. By 2015 they generally had them solved. For me, the 2014 is no go and certainly at the dealers price.

More importantly, seeing the service light on on a bike they're selling tells me far more than I want to know about that dealer.
 
#11 ·
2013 is the last year of the camhead for the RT. I think the GS's got the wethead for 2013 though, is that correct? Anyway, yes, I would look for a bit newer and lower miles unless you find a 2014 for less than that one.

Referencing @Mellow's link, there are a couple of 2011-2012 camhead RT's for nearly the same price point with a lot less miles. And, being the last generation of that model (and no radiator,) less stuff to go wrong. Might be worth considering.
 
#12 · (Edited)
I would disagree that the alternator problem is rare. There is a post on here currently of a chap who has the alternator problem. I personally know of 4 bikes including one of our fleet bikes that have had the alternator changed, all 2014 bikes. But maybe 5 is rare, but how many have had issues who are not on forums.

But possibly not as common as the exhaust flap sticking, which is very common and has never been fixed, had headers changed on a 22 bike last week. Possibly more of an issue in Europe. All models, including GS, GSA, R, RS have problems with this terrible engineered flap.
 
#13 ·
Then there's the drive shaft with the possibility of locking up the rear wheel when its front/rear u-joint goes. I told myself I'd change it out at 70K miles just because it's going to go out eventually and consequences can be nastier than just the cost of new shaft and even swingarm housing or what have you.

I saw your listing on Cycletrader, and here's a much better deal if it's stil active:
Wheel Tire Automotive parking light Vehicle Automotive tire
 

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#15 ·
Most of the issues mentioned here, while expensive to repair, what isn't expensive from bmw 😂, are quite rare or would have come out earlier in the bike's history.
Being a high mileage bike, I would have the drive shaft checked for sure, that's an easy task. Same with the exhaust flap and the cams.
However I would worry about the possible stator issue. Replacing that is time consuming and unless you are ready and willing to do it yourself, quite expensive.

I would pass on that bike.
 
#21 ·
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#22 ·
For price comparison I bought a 2015 R1200RT with 19,900miles on it basically fully loaded including navigation with front and rear crash bars in almost pristine condition for $8,500 from BMW Santa Fe, NM in December 2022. If you save money buying a high mileage bike that's great, just make sure to have $2K-4K in the bank or a very low interest rate credit card for the maintenance/repairs that are definitely going to hit you.
 
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