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2003 1200LT
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Discussion Starter #1
Well the last couple of times I rode I realized my throttle assembly was not back to its original position, in other words the starter button, cencel button, etc, were rotated too far underneath the bars. It isn't much but it is annoying to have to cock my wrist that way. I decided to adjust it back so when I just got in there I realized the SS brake line banjo, when I tightened it, rotated down toward the lower plastic cover and won't go any further than about3 millimeters. I need it to go about five more but it won't unless I loosen the screws holding the plastic up.

Question is this...if I loosen the banjo just enough to rotate it up will that introduce air or will it still be tight enough to still push up the line sufficiently to allow the assembly to roll down some?
 

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Well the last couple of times I rode I realized my throttle assembly was not back to its original position, in other words the starter button, cencel button, etc, were rotated too far underneath the bars. It isn't much but it is annoying to have to cock my wrist that way. I decided to adjust it back so when I just got in there I realized the SS brake line banjo, when I tightened it, rotated down toward the lower plastic cover and won't go any further than about3 millimeters. I need it to go about five more but it won't unless I loosen the screws holding the plastic up.

Question is this...if I loosen the banjo just enough to rotate it up will that introduce air or will it still be tight enough to still push up the line sufficiently to allow the assembly to roll down some?
It is a crap shoot. You may be able to put some rubber bands on the brake lever so that when you loosen it, it will allow fluid to come out under pressure and not allow air in but you have a limited amount of fluid to loose before air will replace the void left with no pressure. Obviously, make sure not to get any brake fluid drips from that effort on any paint.
 

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2003 1200LT
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Discussion Starter #3
you're saying it would need to be done pretty quickly...rubber bands, crack it loose, pull it up, tighten it.

After all the trouble to get the brakes dialed in I am tempted to just widen the groove under it so the SS line will poke through when I roll it down.
 

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you're saying it would need to be done pretty quickly...rubber bands, crack it loose, pull it up, tighten it.

After all the trouble to get the brakes dialed in I am tempted to just widen the groove under it so the SS line will poke through when I roll it down.
Either way. It would only be that one control circuit or line you might have to bleed again so pick your poison.
 

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Well the last couple of times I rode I realized my throttle assembly was not back to its original position, in other words the starter button, cencel button, etc, were rotated too far underneath the bars. It isn't much but it is annoying to have to cock my wrist that way. I decided to adjust it back so when I just got in there I realized the SS brake line banjo, when I tightened it, rotated down toward the lower plastic cover and won't go any further than about3 millimeters. I need it to go about five more but it won't unless I loosen the screws holding the plastic up.

Question is this...if I loosen the banjo just enough to rotate it up will that introduce air or will it still be tight enough to still push up the line sufficiently to allow the assembly to roll down some?
Gravity should keep a slight pressure on the fitting so it is unlikely you will get air in. You likely will have some fluid leak out, but that is no big deal. And even if you get a little air, it will be up near a the master cylinder and should rise overnight and work its way into the master cylinder after a fashion.
 
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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Gravity should keep a slight pressure on the fitting so it is unlikely you will get air in. You likely will have some fluid leak out, but that is no big deal. And even if you get a little air, it will be up near a the master cylinder and should rise overnight and work its way into the master cylinder after a fashion.
TEMPTING! :thumb:

OK, I went there :). I loosened it just enough to where I was able to slide the metal arm up to the stop and then I reversed the torque wrench and tightened it back to the torque setting. I got just a small seep of fluid on the towel and nothing else so I am gonna call it good for now. Whew, that could have taken longer, thanks for the perspective. I was halfway thinking if I just got it loose enough to overcome friction it might not leak much.
 
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2003 1200LT
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Discussion Starter #7
Does anyone know the torque setting for the throttle assembly allen bolt that clamps to the handlebars? I don't see it on Kirk's torque chart.
 

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2005 K1200LT
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No torque is specified for that. Just tight enough where it will not rotate.
 

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2003 1200LT
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Discussion Starter #9
No torque is specified for that. Just tight enough where it will not rotate.
:) Thanks, John. That could explain why I couldn't find it anywhere, lol. Snugged it up, put some epoxy on some cracks I noticed on the top handlebar cover thread housings and I THINK I am done for now except cleaning the filthy thing! I believe this whole project is approximately analogous to putting panty hose on Rosie O'Donnell even when she doesn't want them on, lol.
 

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2005 K1200LT
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14,260 Posts
:) I believe this whole project is approximately analogous to putting panty hose on Rosie O'Donnell even when she doesn't want them on, lol.
Now that is probably the best description of working on an LT I have ever heard (and now I can't get that image out of my head).
 

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Now that is probably the best description of working on an LT I have ever heard (and now I can't get that image out of my head).
Yes, I will never look at my LT the same way again. :surprise:

Just kidding. An LT and Rosie Barr have absolutely nothing in common.:grin:
 
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Discussion Starter #12
Yes, I will never look at my LT the same way again. :surprise:

Just kidding. An LT and Rosie Barr have absolutely nothing in common.:grin:
You make a valid point :rotf::histerica:yeah::thumb::lol8:
 

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