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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

After filling up and having breakfast outside of Dayton, OH the LT started running rough (knocking), hesitating in 1st & 2nd and the bike died at a stop light. Restarted and ran okay cruising in 5th, but bad gas mileage until the next fill up. Still have the same issues with that last fill up, but I think I haven't run through all of the bad gas. If it was indeed bad.
I have cycled the battery and did a reset of the TSP. GS-911 showed TVA faults, which I cleared, showing idle activator (IA) possibly out of adjustment. O2 sensor tested okay.
Bike was running great until the Dayton fill up.
Anyone have an issue with bad gas and when the LT finally started running well again or could it really be an IA issue?

Thanks,
Jer
 

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Hi All,

After filling up and having breakfast outside of Dayton, OH the LT started running rough (knocking), hesitating in 1st & 2nd and the bike died at a stop light. Restarted and ran okay cruising in 5th, but bad gas mileage until the next fill up. Still have the same issues with that last fill up, but I think I haven't run through all of the bad gas. If it was indeed bad.
I have cycled the battery and did a reset of the TSP. GS-911 showed TVA faults, which I cleared, showing idle activator (IA) possibly out of adjustment. O2 sensor tested okay.
Bike was running great until the Dayton fill up.
Anyone have an issue with bad gas and when the LT finally started running well again or could it really be an IA issue?

Thanks,
Jer
The TVA would not cause your bike to run badly. It might idle high or not at all but should run normally otherwise and it wouldn't affect mileage.

I would do a visual check of the fuel in the tank and look for swirling when you turn the key to on and the pump cycles. Something as sudden as that could be the start of a split in the internal fuel lines if they have never been changed out.

Just curious, are you running premium?
 
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Discussion Starter #3
I replaced the lines on the fuel pump with the new plastic fuel lines being sold, so don't think there's a split, but will check. Yes, it was a hot day, so premium was purchased, which I use for ~90% of fill ups.

Thanks,
Jer
 

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Bike was running great until the Dayton fill up.
Anyone have an issue with bad gas and when the LT finally started running well again or could it really be an IA issue?
During the Butt Lite 8 rally earlier this month, an Australian competitor pumped a tankful of gasoline and water into his tanks. His bike ran for a couple mile before running rough and finally quitting. It delayed his rally for over 24 hours and nearly disqualified him for being time barred at the Reno checkpoint. So, water in the gas does happen. I briefly spoke to him at the checkpoint and he said the Kansas area had recently been saturated with heavy rain.

The mechanic assisting him used a product called HEET (How to Use HEET® Gas-Line Antifreeze & Water Remover FAQs | Gold Eagle) in an attempt to resolve the water issue. Unfortunately, there was a significant amount of water in the fuel and the product did not work. He had to completely drain his main and aux tanks to correct the issue.

My advice is to first try the "pour and pray" method of HEET followed by draining your tank if HEET did not work. I those both fail, I defer to the wise ones on the forum.

Rob, 2000LT
Navarre, FL
 

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The water seriously messes with your fuel filter also. I hate to say this but I would also go in there and change out the filter.
 

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I replaced the lines on the fuel pump with the new plastic fuel lines being sold, so don't think there's a split, but will check. Yes, it was a hot day, so premium was purchased, which I use for ~90% of fill ups.

Thanks,
Jer
If your lines are the plastic ones which I also have, give it a check just in case but it is not likely them unless a clamp has come lose. I am with the others who have responded. Try the HEET method and if that fails, it is a lot of work but pull the tank and drain it completely into a clean container and examine for contaminants and replace the filter as Beech said. If there is any sigh of water in what you remove, you might have your answer. If not then on to the wiser ones.
 

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If your lines are the plastic ones which I also have, give it a check just in case but it is not likely them unless a clamp has come lose. I am with the others who have responded. Try the HEET method and if that fails, it is a lot of work but pull the tank and drain it completely into a clean container and examine for contaminants and replace the filter as Beech said. If there is any sigh of water in what you remove, you might have your answer. If not then on to the wiser ones.
I don't think you need to pull the tank. Remove the right fairing panel and the tip over frame. Siphon out as much fuel as possible (you can get all but a few ounces). Remove the fuel pump from the tank. Just remove it carefully so you don't bend anything. It will come out with the tank on the bike as I have done it. Rock the bike side to side to remove as much fuel as possible. Replace the filter as already recommended and then fill with good gas. Replace plastic and ride.
 

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I don't think you need to pull the tank. Remove the right fairing panel and the tip over frame. Siphon out as much fuel as possible (you can get all but a few ounces). Remove the fuel pump from the tank. Just remove it carefully so you don't bend anything. It will come out with the tank on the bike as I have done it. Rock the bike side to side to remove as much fuel as possible. Replace the filter as already recommended and then fill with good gas. Replace plastic and ride.
That is a good process laying the bike over on the left to pull out the pump without pulling the tank but it could get messy standing it back up trying to get all the liquid out of the tank ;) It would work though.
 

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That is a good process laying the bike over on the left to pull out the pump without pulling the tank but it could get messy standing it back up trying to get all the liquid out of the tank ;) It would work though.
I wouldn't lay it over. I did mine on the centerstand. I siphoned the gas out and what little came out when I loosened the ring was absorbed by one shop rag.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The TVA would not cause your bike to run badly. It might idle high or not at all but should run normally otherwise and it wouldn't affect mileage.

I would do a visual check of the fuel in the tank and look for swirling when you turn the key to on and the pump cycles. Something as sudden as that could be the start of a split in the internal fuel lines if they have never been changed out.

Just curious, are you running premium?
Well, did the visual check. Now why would I need to do THAT as I had replaced the lines, filter & pump during the winter of 2014 and it's been running GREAT!? Hell, if that's not the problem. Turned on the key, as I've read here numerous times as good advise to others, and there it was. Swirling gas! Darn! Nice to know I can do the repair and not have to limp it into the dealer.

Thanks all for your much appreciated, sage advise.
Jer
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Also, thanks for the input on the process of removing the pump assembly. Never had to do it, but looks and seems to be do-able without removing the tank.

Thanks all, again,
Jer
 

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Discussion Starter #12
FYI, about siphoning gas without a pump or shooting it out your nose:


It's that easy, as I've used this method before.

HTH,
Jer
 
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Well, did the visual check. Now why would I need to do THAT as I had replaced the lines, filter & pump during the winter of 2014 and it's been running GREAT!? Hell, if that's not the problem. Turned on the key, as I've read here numerous times as good advise to others, and there it was. Swirling gas! Darn! Nice to know I can do the repair and not have to limp it into the dealer.

Thanks all for your much appreciated, sage advise.
Jer
Make sure you take a picture of the failure if possible. Several of us are running these lines and if it actually split or failed, it would be nice to know how it happened.

Hopefully that is it but may not be a good sign for these nylon lines if so.
 

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Well, did the visual check. Now why would I need to do THAT as I had replaced the lines, filter & pump during the winter of 2014 and it's been running GREAT!? Hell, if that's not the problem. Turned on the key, as I've read here numerous times as good advise to others, and there it was. Swirling gas! Darn! Nice to know I can do the repair and not have to limp it into the dealer.

Thanks all for your much appreciated, sage advise.
Jer
Another thing you can do is remove the sending unit from the top of the tank and the fuel lines are right there to look at. The only thing I would caution is if you try turning on the key with that opening, you may get sprayed in the face with gas from the leak so I would use a mirror to look in from the side if you wanted to examine it that way to see where it was leaking under pressure. Always use caution where gas is involved.

Check this thread out post #9 for pics of what you can see through the sending tube opening. You can also see if it is impacting anything inside causing abrasion.

http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/k1200lt/150410-euro-motor-electric-flexible-fuel-line.html
 

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I picked up a bad tank of gas in Batesville, MS, where mom lives. I've never bought gas from that BP again. MPG dropped into the mid 30's rather than the normal 44. Thought my O2 sensor had gone. Once I got into the Great State of Alabama, I filled up and the problem went away, never to return.

BTW, speaking of fuel and I'm cautious to mention, but I have been buying Chevron Premium since reading in my 525i manual that BMW recommenced Chevron and Techron. Noticing that they are now allied with Shell, and it is a right on red to the Shell and a left at the light for Chevron, I put a tank of Shell in and noticed that my ave. mpg has gone up from 44 to 46. I ran another tank Chevron and it was back down to 44. A tank of Shell, up to 46 again. I'm pretty much a commuter, taking the same routes on a weekly basis.
 
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Also, thanks for the input on the process of removing the pump assembly. Never had to do it, but looks and seems to be do-able without removing the tank.

Thanks all, again,
Jer
It is pretty easy once you drain the tank. I used a small hand pump I picked up at Wal-Mart or the hardware store to siphon the gas out. Just make sure the hose is at the bottom of the fuel pump assembly while the bike is on the center stand. Once you can't get any more out put the bike on the side stand to make it a little more comfortable to work on. Pull the right side fairings and the two bolts for the crash bar frame and you'll be able to pull the assembly. Put a light coat of grease or Vaseline on the gasket to keep it from shrinking while you work on the lines and it will keep it from binding when you tighten the nut.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Make sure you take a picture of the failure if possible. Several of us are running these lines and if it actually split or failed, it would be nice to know how it happened.

Hopefully that is it but may not be a good sign for these nylon lines if so.
I removed the fuel pump assembly...looks perfectly fine. Before removing everything I did see swirling in the tank when I turned the key to the starting position. The swirling stopped after a few seconds, but I thought the pump just runs for a few.
What have I missed?

Jer
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I removed the fuel pump assembly...looks perfectly fine. Before removing everything I did see swirling in the tank when I turned the key to the starting position. The swirling stopped after a few seconds, but I thought the pump just runs for a few.
What have I missed?

Jer
On even closer inspection, I see some tiny gas bubbles coming out of the gas line at the input to the filter. Screw clamp is a bit farther away from butting up to the filter than the hose. Thinking a possible clogged/restricted filter, too.

Jer
 

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You might want to replace the screw clamps with Oeticher stainless steel clamps if/when you replace the filter. They can handle the higher pressures and good for submersible applications. :sun:
 

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You might want to replace the screw clamps with Oeticher stainless steel clamps if/when you replace the filter. They can handle the higher pressures and good for submersible applications. :sun:
The Oetiker clamps would have to be used carefully not to damage the nylon fuel lines he is using. The FI screw clamps are probably better for that particular application IMO.
 
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