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Discussion Starter #1
Well I picked the 08 LT up on Saturday and I, we, love it.
Everything works as it should, it's a joy to ride, except. On moderate turns it drags the center stand, thought I would have to remove my helmet and cut the sleeves off my jacket :D .
I checked the tire pressure, front was 40, rear was 35. I set the front to 42 and the rear to 46.
I also turned in the preload adjuster all the way so I'm hoping this takes care of that.
I did ask the dealer to be sure the tire pressure and preload was set for full load but I blame myself for not checking it, I should know better.
I read the thread on topping off the preload oil, but it seemed fine when I tested it.
I was wondering if the center stand stop could be tweaked a little higher to allow more clearance but I have to check this further to see if it will alter the power center stand operation.

All in all a great bike, I'll just have to be a little careful until I learn just how far I can lean it.
 

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You didn't say if you were dragging while riding two up or single something to note is that the OEM springs are a bit on the soft side so it doesn't take much to start grounding her many have change the springs to a heavier coil Hyperpro or to a complete new system like the Wilbers and Ohlins I did the Wilbers and its a new bike to ride let me tell you.
 

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I did trim the centerstand bumpers on my 2k model. It did help give a little more clearance to the ground. Either that or I ground off the feet of the centerstand enough.

I think I just used a hacksaw blade and did it in situ. I recall taking about half the bumper off.
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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Also loosen the pre load adjuster all the way. Then start adding preload. If you don't feel resistance right away (within a turn) then you have lost some oil. Unbolt the preload device and remove the hose (have some one hold the hose so oil does not run out). In the hole insert a rod to push the plate back and add oil (hydrualic jack oil is fine) and once full reinstall the hose. You will now get full pre load function.

No, we don't know where or why the oil dissappears to but we know it does.
 

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I have a clearance problem with my '05 when fully loaded and 2 up. The rear shock preload is all ok but the centre stand scrapes on the right and the side stand scrapes on the left. I've looked and it appears there are no rubber bump stops for the EHCS when in the up position, therefore it appears to me that any forces encountered are transferred into the hydraulic unit via the piston rod, not good I suspect. So my fix so far has been to put the centre stand down onto a board then take a 5" grinder with cut-off wheel and trim some metal off the rh side foot (approx 4 mm can be removed). Same for the side stand on the left. If you want to increase the surface area of the side stand foot, add the material to the inside, there's plenty of room close to the exhaust when it's retracted. The side stand can also have the rubber bump stop trimmed slightly to help with clearance. As for bottoming through spoon drains etc, that's just a function of being too low and a long wheelbase. Try to avoid it wherever possible. Hope this helps.
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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There should be a rubber stop on the right side (hard to see) for the center stand.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for all the help :wave

I was riding two up with full ATGAT, I figure about 340 - 350 lbs. The preload was on one notch past standard and that's not enough. I did read about topping off the preload adjuster with jack oil. I felt resistance approx one notch before standard.

For such a low beast it's surprising that the CS is angled down when up. I'll trim the bumper and look into a set of Wilbers, winter project.

There is a 2" curb before getting on my driveway apron and it's a left turn so I am concerned about getting hooked on it, I saw a thread of the CS being ripped off and I don't want to do that.

Thanks again.
 

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Yes get the suspension set up properly, then you might look at riding techniques, for a bike loaded heavy with 2 people try riding outside in on every corner, and have the throttle on (maintenance throttle) and drag a little rear brake. This combination of techniques will buy you some more ground clearance and keep all that stuff from dragging all the time. :dance:
 

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jzeiler said:
Also loosen the pre load adjuster all the way. Then start adding preload. If you don't feel resistance right away (within a turn) then you have lost some oil. Unbolt the preload device and remove the hose (have some one hold the hose so oil does not run out). In the hole insert a rod to push the plate back and add oil (hydrualic jack oil is fine) and once full reinstall the hose. You will now get full pre load function.

No, we don't know where or why the oil dissappears to but we know it does.
The hose swells over time. That's my theory.
 

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Hi Guys,

I have had all these problems on my 2002 LT and have trimmed both the bump rubbers, had the rear shock rebuilt (including heavier spring). I have also topped up the pre-load oil a number of times. The rear shock has again sagged to the extent that I could not put it up on the centre stand without help. I haven’t resorted yet to chopping bits off the stand. The bike would also ground out the bash plate over speed humps when two up. Better than taking out the mounts on the bottom of the gear box as happened in the very early models. Very expensive to replace the gear box housing.

As I have just retired (yahoooo!) I am getting the bike ready for a tour around Australia starting late April next year. I just finished yesterday in fitting Wilbers to both front and rear, along with a change over rear disk to eliminate the "temple bell syndrome". The short ride I have done so far indicates a firmer but more compliant ride, and a change in the ride height. Interestingly, the front is higher, to the extent that I now have to run the screen a little lower than previous settings.

The rear disk is a change over unit that my local BM service guy stocks. It uses the disk from a R1200C that does NOT have the thimbles that wear and therefore allow the disk to rattle. No sign yet of brake squeal either. I normally coat the back of the pads with anti squeal liquid, but have decided to give it a go without. The changeover disk comes complete on the brake carrier including the ABS ring, so it is an easy job to change over. I had expected to have trauma in undoing the 2 countersunk bolts that attach the carrier, but they cracked undone easily with a long bar. I was expecting to have to use heat from a butane torch to break loose the Loctite used to retain the bolts.

I removed all the tupperwear except for the panniers and top box, as I did the air and fuel filters at the same time - amazing how much better the bike runs with these replaced.

For the shock replacements, I followed instructions from the Hall of Wisdom (great resource) and used the manual that can be downloaded from Black Bears in Russia. 400 pages. I printed it out double sided - I had to do something in my last days at work!

The rear was easy, but the front resisted the process as described in the instructions. The ball joint nut came off easily, but the ball joint shaft would not drop down out of the "A" frame mount. After finally resorting to butchery, there was a tiny gap where it had started to move, so a very gentle insertion of a small screw driver finally broke the bond that had obviously been generated over time. It then came out easily.

I purchased the Wilbers rear shock with both the preload and separate tank that has low and high speed compression adjusters. Lovely bit of kit – it is a shame that they are hidden by the fairings. It took a bit of stuffing around to mount the pre load adjuster and the compression tank as the space under the seat is also where I have my Autocom unit mounted. Tight, but OK!

In all, a great to spend my first days of retirement, but an expensive way to cure both ride height and quality of ride issues. Should I have just gone off and purchased a 1600GTL and used up all my savings!

Looking out the window, the sun is shining, gentle breezes and temperature expected to be in the low 20’s Celsius. Suffer all you hard working guys!
 
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