[Munmi]

About 10 days ago, I had my front tire changed. Upon removing the brake calipers....squeezing the pistons in to gain clearance to get the wheel off the fork, some brake fluid relieved through the overflow tube. Not sure how much, but more than a few drops.
Jump ahead a few days, we were riding in 92 degree heat and the brake error lights started flashing. With that, we lost speedo, cruise, odometer, some BC functions and a climbing temp gauge. I did a search here for some guidance and determined that I may have lost just enough brake fluid in the front resevoir to cause a fault. So I added some fresh DOT 4. Symptoms all went away. I thouht all was well.
Now today while riding down the expressway near Dayton, OH, again in 92 degrees, the exact same symptoms have come about, but with just one brake warning flashing (the one that always flashes at startup until rolling)
I have only checked to the temp sensor connection in the front under headlight, and confirmed the brake pump hums normally when brake lever is squeezed, which it does.
The bike is a 2004LT with 71k.
Sitting in a motel in Richmond, KY at the moment. Thanks for any suggestions.

 

[JPSpen]

A comedy of errors...

Check your rear brake lights.. You've probably got one out...I think that's what's being indicated...

If not that.. Check the rear brake res.. It can throw a fault if low on fluid as well..

Remember there's a rubber bellows in the top of the resevoir.. Pull it out before adding fluid..

Also possibly rear brake wear indicator....Does it flash slow or fast ?

Good Luck..

John

 

[jzeiler]

A comedy of errors...

Check your rear brake lights.. You've probably got one out...I think that's what's being indicated...

If not that.. Check the rear brake res.. It can throw a fault if low on fluid as well..

Remember there's a rubber bellows in the top of the resevoir.. Pull it out before adding fluid..

Good Luck..

John

Not quite right John. On the 2001- 2004 the only reservoir that is monitored is the two chambered rear reservoir and there are two separate caps, one for each chamber and no rubber diaphragm. The rear most chamber would have been the one to spit out fluid from a front tire change (just did one last night on a friend's bike and had to wipe up the fluid).

None of this should be affecting the other dash issues you reported. The temp sensor under the nose only feeds the BC. The speedo and cruise can be related to the rear ABS wheel sensor. It's signal goes through the ABS and then feeds the speedo, cruise and Odometer.

 

[JPSpen]

Guess I'll stop guessing.. LOL ! I thought my 03 CLC flashed when the brake light was out..

Listen to John Zeiler.. Not me....


Good Luck, I'm sure it's minor...

John

 

[DanDiver]

I think that your brakes will still work, (dash light flashing) except that you won't have the ABS feature. There have been some to ride without ABS brakes.

 

[jzeiler]

Man, both you guys have been away from your Lts too long. The only flahing light that still give you full braking is the wig wag for low fluid. The I ABS is power assisted and when ABS is out she won't stop for crap. The early bikes (99-early 2001) if ABS failed you still had full braking force. Not so on the I ABS.

The described flashing light with the general warning illuminated steady is an issue. that may be caused by a failure and it could well be the wheel sensor wiring is broken back above the swing arm where it is cable tied to the brake line.

 

[DanDiver]

John, Thanks for the correction. Been away for just about a year and it seems just like yesterday!

 

[Munmi]

I have been riding the Smokies region over the past week since I last posted on the ABS issue. I had contact with a gentleman in Kentucky who suggested the only item that effects the list (no speedo, no odo, no cruise, no speed adjust radio volume, no self-cancel turn signal) is the rear abs sensor. He says that the extremely tight zip ties on the sensor wire cause a break in the wire near the rear suspension's pivot point. That makes sense to me. It is also supported by occasional moments of normal operation where the light stopped flashing and all functions resumed. It ultimately worked for an additional 61 miles..... a few miles at a time.

On Wednesday morning, I took the bike to the dealer at Charlotte, NC. (Nice shop) They ran diagnostics test which stated may need new abs pump assembly.
My head is spinning with this. As some have experienced, the abs pump is some serious cha-ching. It just seems so peculiar that these symptoms would arise after the front tire change and the loss of fluid. Before talking with the gentleman in KY, I had already topped the front brake resevoir, and both segments of the main resevoir behind the rear right footpeg.

What are the chances that there could be an air lock in the abs pump or something related to the original fluid loss? I just can't dump $2500-3000 to replace a abs pump and have that not be the issue.

 

[jzeiler]

If it is the ABS unit that is causing you other symptoms then it is the electronic "brain" of the unit. Not the hydraulic part. My money is on that cable tie. You can get to it easily by removing the rear passanger foot peg plate on the right side followed by the small tupperware called the "battery cover". Above the swing arm you will see where the brake line goes from rubber hose to metal line. That is where the rear sensor line is tie too tight and if you strip open the outer cover you will most likely find a broken wire.

Most dealers just throw the computer on to trouble shoot (time is money). Worth a look. I am only about 2-3 hours from the Smokies and I would be happy to look at it. Top center of AL 5 miles south of the TN line.

 

[tvguy]

Listen to John... He is the Kung Fu Master of the LT world...

 

[deanwoolsey]

Won't cost you anything to strip the side and take a look. That's where my problem was found. Simple fix if you can solder two wires together. To explain a little, the output from the ABS ring stops when one of the two wires wears through underneath the factory zip strip. The zips were too tight from the factory and the insulation and then the wire simply wears away where it rubs the brake line. It is usually intermittent in the beginning and if you pay close attention you'll find it correlates with large bumps or dips in the road.

 

[biknut]

On Wednesday morning, I took the bike to the dealer at Charlotte, NC. (Nice shop) They ran diagnostics test which stated may need new abs pump assembly.
My head is spinning with this. As some have experienced, the abs pump is some serious cha-ching. It just seems so peculiar that these symptoms would arise after the front tire change and the loss of fluid. Before talking with the gentleman in KY, I had already topped the front brake resevoir, and both segments of the main resevoir behind the rear right footpeg.

Scott- the 61 miles of service came after we cut the zip ties off that wire. Did it work any time at all before we did that?

I am the last person to ever recommend splicing a wire, but I think I might consider it in this case. I would think about cutting it off at each end, leaving just enough to solder/splice back together. Or at least enough to bypass all those crimps from the zip ties. I would splice, solder, crimp, heat shrink, and tape it back and see if that doesn't fix your problem. And it would be much less expensive than an ABS pump!

 

[wa1200lt]

I would NOT replace the entire wire. Absolutely not necessary. Follow Johns' advice and fix it at the break with a couple 2" pieces of wire. Mine has worked without error since I fixed it with John's instructions.

Loren

 

[Munmi]

Tony, it did work a bit even after we removed the ties, but I feel the damage was already done. I am looking forward to getting it home and looking into this a little deeper.

 

[budzee]

This may sound crazy but have you checked the battery and all connections? I had similar problems as you mentioned and after spending mucho time and money found the battery connection was loose. Secured that and no more problems. It is surprising how a bad or loose battery effects these bikes.

 

[Munmi]

One of the interesting comments I can really apreciate is related to the intermittent behavior of the system. The first hint at failure came as I was zipping down I-75 near Dayton and Cinci OH. That is one the roughest segments of interstate I have ever ridden. Almost scary to drive, especially with all of the traffic. I plan to be home tomorrow and will get to working on the bike on Tuesday.

 

[dthogey]

Scott, sorry to hear of your troubles, wish I could help. All I can offer is a truck and trailer if you would like or need to have the bike hauled home.

 

[hschisler]

Scott, sorry to hear of your troubles, wish I could help. All I can offer is a truck and trailer if you would like or need to have the bike hauled home.

Same here, Scott. I live about 2 hours east of Dayton. I have a truck and an open utility trailer that could be used to haul your bike somewhere if needed. You will probably be home by the time you read this... hope so.

 

[dfinazzo]

If you pass thru Cincinnati on your trip home call me (513 560-3832) - owned 2 LTs for
coming up on 10 years and have maintained them without a dealer that entire time.

Brake issues, wire splicing just up my alley - especially with the the help of everyone here :wave

 

[Munmi]

Thanks for the helpful offers. I am now home with no additional issues other than a sore wrist and shoulder. I purchased a Cramp Buster early in the trip. Helped out alot after losing the Cruise Control.