BMW Luxury Touring Community banner

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
149 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have a new to me 2002 K1200Lte, that I just put a new clutch in, which actually wasn't as much a nightmare as I expected, though I did get two connectors in the wrong place. Got it all back together and even with 97000 miles she runs like a raped ape, I do however, still have to take it apart again (2 time) for the replacement of the seal that closes off the trans oil from the slave cylinder. I have put in two now, get about 10 miles on it and it starts leaking tranny oil out the weep hole...WHAT'S THE SECRET TO GETTING THAT SEAL IN PROPERLY.????? Taking it apart again tomorrow but can't another seal until monday, Hopefully for the last time,

OH, what size are the vacuum lines to the throttle bodies? I have an erratic idle once warmed up, 1200-2000 up and down..I'm thinking a vacuum leak and figure I might as well replace all those lines with some new hose. Have done the cannisterectomy, and the brown wire thing. New plugs, fuel filter, air filter, oil, oil filter, new fluids all around, Using synthetic gear oil in the trans and final drive. new pivot bearings in final drive, new brake pads in rear. IF I get the leak and surging taken care of, I should be good for a long long while..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,525 Posts
There is a special tool that seats that seal to the proper depth....

I'm sure somebody can tell you how to get it close... Drive that sucker in too far and it leaks..
Not enough and it leaks... I think it's about 3/16th's or so....

Johnny Z will chime in here in a while..

John
 

·
Wrencher Extraordinaire
Joined
·
13,779 Posts
You have to get it at the correct depth. Here is a tool that I use for this seal but you can make do with a deep 21 mm socket. Wrap it with masking tape until it is a good fit in the slave well and place a mark on the tape back 1.5 inches from the front.

You can see an example if you down load the "Weep B" file in the sticky at the top of the page and look at the 10 minute mark I show the socket.

On the vacuum lines just cap them off if you are doing a canisterectomy.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
149 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Well crap !!!!#$%@@$)%!
I made a tool out of a 21 mm socket, which wouldn't work, the walls were too thick to be able to drive the seal in, made another one out of some other socket, don't remember what sized it was. Anyway, I took a fine file to the hollow shaft to ensure that there were no burrs from removing the other seals (2 previous), and found no evidence of any burr. Installed new seal, re-assembled the bike, ran it on the center stand two different times, til I got it up to temp and ran it through the gears a few times. NO OIL. Thought I was good to go, so I installed the rest of the tupperware, went for a test ride, and it LEAKS.. When I took it back apart, this and the other times as well the clutch rod was completely covered in transmission fluid (****** 75w-90), I have cleaned the slave each occurrence with brake clean, hoping to avoid wiping out a new slave cylinder...I am at a loss, been working on cars and bikes for the better part of 50 years and never had this kind of problem..

ANY SUGGESTIONS?????
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
576 Posts
jzeiler said:
You have to get it at the correct depth. Here is a tool that I use for this seal but you can make do with a deep 21 mm socket. Wrap it with masking tape until it is a good fit in the slave well and place a mark on the tape back 1.5 inches from the front.

You can see an example if you down load the "Weep B" file in the sticky at the top of the page and look at the 10 minute mark I show the socket.

On the vacuum lines just cap them off if you are doing a canisterectomy.
Izzat sucker Steel or Aluminium? Wonder what people would pay for that? I've got a lathe in the garage and a pile of metal and could turn out 10 of those in about 90 minutes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
149 Posts
Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Rocketsled said:
Izzat sucker Steel or Aluminium? Wonder what people would pay for that? I've got a lathe in the garage and a pile of metal and could turn out 10 of those in about 90 minutes.

I believe the one in the video is steel, but personally I think they'd be better made out of a poylurethane (suspension) type of hard plastic. Would provide no damage to seal or surrounding parts.


John, I did go ahead and replace the vacuum lines at the Throttle bodies, since I had just disconnected and plugged the lines at the junction on the rear fender. Wanted to be sure I could make it all legal is need be.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
576 Posts
Even better! Delrin is an AWESOME material to work with, is self-lubricating, dimension stable, and relatively cheap. (Food safe, too, but I don't think that'll be a factor here) :p
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,338 Posts
Hi Rick,
I sent you an email.
Ernie
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
149 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Got my fingers crossed..I redid my homemade seal installation too to ensure a good tight fit in the slave cylinder area and centering of the tool on the seal. Installed the seal, re-assembled the bike enough to run it with the complete drive line and in gear, shifting up and down several times, though mostly running in 5th gear. Ran it for over an hour and see NO OIL LEAK. Finished putting it all back together, and ran it another 15 minutes, shifting up and down through all the gears...still NO LEAK...
Will take it out for a ride tomorrow and see how it all goes, but I'm pretty sure I got the bugger fixed, finally. ( I will uncross my fingers before the ride, hehe)
 

·
Wrencher Extraordinaire
Joined
·
13,779 Posts
Yeahaa:dance:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
335 Posts
olddog1946 said:
Got my fingers crossed..I redid my homemade seal installation too to ensure a good tight fit in the slave cylinder area and centering of the tool on the seal. Installed the seal, re-assembled the bike enough to run it with the complete drive line and in gear, shifting up and down several times, though mostly running in 5th gear. Ran it for over an hour and see NO OIL LEAK. Finished putting it all back together, and ran it another 15 minutes, shifting up and down through all the gears...still NO LEAK...
Will take it out for a ride tomorrow and see how it all goes, but I'm pretty sure I got the bugger fixed, finally. ( I will uncross my fingers before the ride, hehe)
That is a great report Rick. I have been wondering how it was going for you and have been fully expecting you were going to make this work since you first posted about buying it. Congratulations - I am trusting that it is now all going to be just many miles of the fun stuff.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
149 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
bummer beemer!! Well, I still have a leak, not as bad as it was but still leaking. I'm about to pull my hair out...wait, can't do that-ain't got any to pull.
The good news is...I can take all the tupperware off in 20 minutes. and not a whole lot longer to put it back on...I guess I'm gettin better, even if the bike isn't.
I put about 50 miles on today and it seems the leak is actually getting less and less but that could easily be what's left of my muddled mind coming up with that. I think I'll work out in the yard, or go ride the valk for a day or two. No sense of getting too crazy....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
149 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
tips727 said:
That is a great report Rick. I have been wondering how it was going for you and have been fully expecting you were going to make this work since you first posted about buying it. Congratulations - I am trusting that it is now all going to be just many miles of the fun stuff.

Well I guess I an not there yet. Parked the bike last night and have a 50 cent sized spot on the pavement from sitting overnight. I know it hasn't slowed down just cause the oil is gone. I did fill it back up before I put it all back together..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,746 Posts
Standard price for ALL BMW type items is $350.00 + shipping. not sure why but that's the way it is! Except for seats. They are considerably more!

Loren

Rocketsled said:
Izzat sucker Steel or Aluminium? Wonder what people would pay for that? I've got a lathe in the garage and a pile of metal and could turn out 10 of those in about 90 minutes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
576 Posts
wa1200lt said:
Standard price for ALL BMW type items is $350.00 + shipping. not sure why but that's the way it is! Except for seats. They are considerably more!

Loren
At $350 per, I could retire early! Course...how many could I honestly expect to sell?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
576 Posts
I'm waiting a new drive belt for my lathe (the last one only lasted something more than 10 years), at which point the prototype will be sent out...the scrap I had laying about wasn't close to the 1.6" diameter, so this first one is taking a lot of waste to create. Once the tool is back up and running, I'll see what the costs are for various (aluminum, Acetyl) materials and proceed accordingly.

Edit to add:
For example, the raw material costs for Aluminum are roughly $7.50 per part....for HDPE, it's $1.50...but I don't know if that would be an appropriate material for the task. Add tooling and time costs and, well...lets just say I'm glad I don't make a living doing it. ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
576 Posts
jzeiler said:
You have to get it at the correct depth. Here is a tool that I use for this seal but you can make do with a deep 21 mm socket. Wrap it with masking tape until it is a good fit in the slave well and place a mark on the tape back 1.5 inches from the front.

You can see an example if you down load the "Weep B" file in the sticky at the top of the page and look at the 10 minute mark I show the socket.

On the vacuum lines just cap them off if you are doing a canisterectomy.
Is there an inner clearance, or is it a solid part? (I got the belt on the lathe replaced, I'm back in bidness.)
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top