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Discussion Starter #1
This is for a 1999 K1200LT bike.

Is there a Huge difference between Oil filters for this bike ?

For example: Is the FRAM PH6063 filter any good ? It suppose to fit this bike.

Compared to the Mahler or other filters (the one in the Yellow & Green box, Mann I think is the brand, it is made in Austria)...is there much of a difference between these brands ?

Thank you all.
 

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If you do a search this has been discussed many times. I think as long as you do not use a "painted" filter, you should be ok. If it were me, and you do not want to support your local dealer, I would order six from BeamerBoneyard and not worry about them for a long time. Plus they come with the large O-ring for the cover housing.
Here is a couple of search links:
http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/k1200lt/137978-wix-oil-filter.html
http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/k1200lt/53230-oil-filter-cross-reference.html
 

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If you do a search this has been discussed many times. I think as long as you do not use a "painted" filter, you should be ok. If it were me, and you do not want to support your local dealer, I would order six from BeamerBoneyard and not worry about them for a long time. Plus they come with the large O-ring for the cover housing.
Here is a couple of search links:
http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/k1200lt/137978-wix-oil-filter.html
http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/k1200lt/53230-oil-filter-cross-reference.html

Yes, unpainted and sticker free is the main criteria. I buy mine from BBY. Bosch as I recall. Based on reviews I have read and tests I have seen, I stay away from anything with Fram or K&N on the box.

I would lose no sleep with a filter from Mahle, Mann, Bosch, Wix, Purolator or a few other brands that I can't remember at the moment.
 

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BBY for filters. I have used them for years, and buy them buy the dozen for my LT and my son's LT. Mobil 1 15w-50, every 3500 miles. My bike just turned 165K, and uses no oil. I also change final drive fluid every oil change, which takes all of 5 minutes.
 

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I agree with Voyager. Stay away from the K&N as they have a stamped metal nut on the bottom which in my case simply rounded off and I had to destroy the filter to get it out. PO must have tightened it with a torque wrench at 50 FT LB or wiped the sealing surfaces and put it on dry. Some things are worth trying to skimp on and others I am finding are not worth the resulting trouble.
 

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I agree with Voyager. Stay away from the K&N as they have a stamped metal nut on the bottom which in my case simply rounded off and I had to destroy the filter to get it out. PO must have tightened it with a torque wrench at 50 FT LB or wiped the sealing surfaces and put it on dry. Some things are worth trying to skimp on and others I am finding are not worth the resulting trouble.
I have over 300k miles on my bike 85 k100rs with K&N, NEVER had any problems with the nut stripping or paint coming off. You say the previous owner probably put it on with a torque wrench. I doubt it, I bet you are right he didn't oil the o-ring. You would have had the same problem no matter what filter was used.

And oil filters only need to be tightened just passed hand tight.

And no I don't work for them, Just a happy customer. I also use their reusable air filter too.
 

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I have over 300k miles on my bike 85 k100rs with K&N, NEVER had any problems with the nut stripping or paint coming off. You say the previous owner probably put it on with a torque wrench. I doubt it, I bet you are right he didn't oil the o-ring. You would have had the same problem no matter what filter was used.

And oil filters only need to be tightened just passed hand tight.

And no I don't work for them, Just a happy customer. I also use their reusable air filter too.
To each their own. Once bitten, twice shy..
 

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I have over 300k miles on my bike 85 k100rs with K&N, NEVER had any problems with the nut stripping or paint coming off. You say the previous owner probably put it on with a torque wrench. I doubt it, I bet you are right he didn't oil the o-ring. You would have had the same problem no matter what filter was used.

And oil filters only need to be tightened just passed hand tight.

And no I don't work for them, Just a happy customer. I also use their reusable air filter too.
And airplanes and original Beetles got by with no oil filter at all. If you change your oil often and don't drive in dusty conditions, the oil filter is largely redundant. However, those times when you need it, a good one makes all the difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
If you do a search this has been discussed many times. I think as long as you do not use a "painted" filter, you should be ok. If it were me, and you do not want to support your local dealer, I would order six from BeamerBoneyard and not worry about them for a long time. Plus they come with the large O-ring for the cover housing.
Here is a couple of search links:
http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/k1200lt/137978-wix-oil-filter.html
http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/k1200lt/53230-oil-filter-cross-reference.html
I actually did a search on this site for oil filters and came up with many things not related to the topic thus I posted a new posting.

Why no painted filter....because it contaminates the oil. Do the paint breaks down on all of them ?

I think most of them are painted.

Thanks
 

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I actually did a search on this site for oil filters and came up with many things not related to the topic thus I posted a new posting.

Why no painted filter....because it contaminates the oil. Do the paint breaks down on all of them ?

I think most of them are painted.

Thanks
In the case of the LT, the filter resides inside the oil pan. Paint due to heat and oil might just flake off and be splashed around outside the filter and get into things it shouldn't and cause damage. The stock filters are not painted and some of the after market are. If you feel lucky, go with a painted filter. It is one easy thing to avoid by getting the correct filter in the first place. No paint, no possibility of paint flaking off inside your engine. Do ya feel lucky. Well, do ya?
 

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I think the Clymer says one quarter turn after the filter seal meets the metal. Had the K&N curse when a mechanic over torqued the filter, a $30 set of Irwin reverse sockets fixed it. I think K&N would be OK in the hands of an informed owner. You can get the Bosch at the parts store. Glad the weather is changing. Ride safe.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I think the Clymer says one quarter turn after the filter seal meets the metal. Had the K&N curse when a mechanic over torqued the filter, a $30 set of Irwin reverse sockets fixed it. I think K&N would be OK in the hands of an informed owner. You can get the Bosch at the parts store. Glad the weather is changing. Ride safe.
Ok, I have to ask all of you....why NO Fram filters ?

I never used them on this bike but they happen to be on huge sale now. Can't tell if they are painted or not for this filter for this bike.

Have you guys had bad experiences with Fram ?

I know the filters are fairly cheap, just trying to buy a large quantity to save on the shipping too.

Thanks.
 

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In the case of the LT, the filter resides inside the oil pan. Paint due to heat and oil might just flake off and be splashed around outside the filter and get into things it shouldn't and cause damage. The stock filters are not painted and some of the after market are. If you feel lucky, go with a painted filter. It is one easy thing to avoid by getting the correct filter in the first place. No paint, no possibility of paint flaking off inside your engine. Do ya feel lucky. Well, do ya?
How about oem filter? that should be good right?

Its painted
Or is it not a good filter?

All K bikes have the filter inside the motor, all the way back to 1984, and they all use the same filter (up to 1200's)
 

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How about oem filter? that should be good right?

Its painted
Or is it not a good filter?n

All K bikes have the filter inside the motor, all the way back to 1984, and they all use the same filter (up to 1200's)
OEM is always a safe choice, just expensive. I believe it is printed with ink, not painted. Painted may work, but you run a risk as most spin-on filters were designed for external use. Most internal filters are cartridge type. I still don't know what possessed BMW to use a spin-on filter inside the cases. Just stupid.
 

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OEM Most internal filters are cartridge type. I still don't know what possessed BMW to use a spin-on filter inside the cases. Just stupid.
100% agree
I have a bmw 528i (its a car) that has an internal oil filter.
Just a slide on cartridge. Its on top of the motor too.
 

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100% agree
I have a bmw 528i (its a car) that has an internal oil filter.
Just a slide on cartridge. Its on top of the motor too.
My Voyager XII had an internal cartridge filter and it worked well. It had a round cover that was o-ring sealed and held on by a single bolt. A little messy to remove, but easier than the three bolt BMW design. And no filter wrenche needed. Slide off the old filter and slide on the new one and screw the bolt and cover back in. No reason BMW couldn't have used a similar design.

My Equinox and Cruze have the top mount cartridge filters. Very low mess. The only issue is Chevy insists on locating hoses or wires above the filter cover making it hard to remove and replace. All those cars need now is a quick drain like my airplane had and they would facilitate nearly zero mess oil changes. Unfortunately, quick release drains and exposed oil pans aren't a good combination.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Ok let me ask this again since all the answers seem to have nothing to do with the question:


....why NO Fram filters ?

I never used them on this bike but they happen to be on huge sale now. Can't tell if they are painted or not for this filter for this bike.

Have you guys had bad experiences with Fram Oil filters for this bike ?

I know the filters are fairly cheap, just trying to buy a large quantity to save on the shipping too.

Thanks.
 
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