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Discussion Starter #1
I'm stuck mid way through an oil chang on a 2009 LT.

My problem is one bolt on the oil filter cover. The EHCS seems to require removal before this bolt can be removed (the forward most of the three filter cover bolts), yet I can locate no such instructions in my Clymer manual or my BMW shop manual ( because the manual I have was published before the upgrades)

I have removed the visible side bolts (one on each side) holding the EHCS chassis to the frame but cannot determine further steps to be able to lower it so as to gain clearance for this one stupid bolt.

Can't find any discussion of this issue, so I'm beginning to think maybe the bolt will clear without partially removing EHCS. But it doesn't appear so.

Comments? Guidance
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Interesting. The the bolts on my 2009 are torx 30 and about 1 inch long.

I have loosened the other two, and already drained the oil via drain plug.

This third bolt just doesn't appear to have the clearance , but I'll give it a try
 

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You should be able to get all 3 out without taking the EHCS off. If you are trying to use an allen socket that could be the issue since it is fat.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Had to use a long reach torx 30 with some "really mean it " force to break it loose.

To my surprise it cleared nicely..

Thank you J
 

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on my 07 I take the skid plate off and I can get 5mm allen wrench into the the bolt and get it out. Jim
Same with my 07. Remove skid plate and all oil filter cover bolts will all come out. The rear one does just barely clear the EHCS frame, but it does clear.
 

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I recall wedging a flat wonder bar to nudge the ehcs forward a tad. Additionally, do not over-torque them going in and be certain to evenly and slowly torque the.
BTW: we NEVER used the drain plug, just remove the rear two bolts and loosen the booger bolt to drain.
 

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I recall wedging a flat wonder bar to nudge the ehcs forward a tad. Additionally, do not over-torque them going in and be certain to evenly and slowly torque the.
BTW: we NEVER used the drain plug, just remove the rear two bolts and loosen the booger bolt to drain.
I am one of the purists who always removes the drain plug. For a couple reasons:
1. It flows fast and I want to get as much sediment out as possible and as much oil as possible.
2. I want to keep it from corroding in place.

I doubt it adds more then two minutes to my oil change time so worth it to me.
 
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I have removed the visible side bolts (one on each side) holding the EHCS chassis to the frame but cannot determine further steps to be able to lower it so as to gain clearance for this one stupid bolt.

Can't find any discussion of this issue, so I'm beginning to think maybe the bolt will clear without partially removing EHCS. But it doesn't appear so.

Comments? Guidance
here you go... easy enough to take it off...
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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The only time the cradle should interfere with an oil change is after it has hit a few speed bumps and has gotten bent. Normally there is plenty of clearance. Yes for some reason when they assembled the last of the LTs (2009) they did use torx on the oil filter cover vs. allen. 9Nm on the torque which is just a hair above snug.
 

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The only time the cradle should interfere with an oil change is after it has hit a few speed bumps and has gotten bent. Normally there is plenty of clearance. Yes for some reason when they assembled the last of the LTs (2009) they did use torx on the oil filter cover vs. allen. 9Nm on the torque which is just a hair above snug.
Interesting. My oil filter cover rear bolt used to just clear the EHCS actuator frame. I just did my first oil change since my clutch repair and discovered that the rear bolt no longer clears. It hit the tube hard enough that I could not spin it out by hand and I feared using the wrench might strip the threads. So, I had to lower the actuator frame.

I pried the frame to the rear as I re-installed the rear actuator bolts hoping that I simply got it a little forward when I assembled it after the clutch work. I will find out in another 6,000 miles or so. As an aside, I could not find torque specs for the actuator bolts. I don't know if I just used judgement when I assembled it last spring, or if I found the torque value then for the 8 mm internal hex bolts and just didn't locate it today. The BMW CD just said to install bolts #2, #3 (#2 are the small, horizontal front bolts and #3 are the large vertical rear bolts) with no torque reference or Loctite reference.

Well, wax the bike tomorrow and then take a shake down ride to ensure all is well with oil change and new rear tire. Then leave Saturday morning for a month or so ride around much of the perimeter of the US! And hope the LT doesn't die on me somewhere...
 
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Funny. That is why I reference both the new CD RepRom and the old manual. The old one also covers the replacement of the swing arm threaded inserts in the frame and the RepRom does not.

M10 Loctite 243 and 41 Nm ; same bolts, same holes.

Enjoy the trip.
 

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Funny. That is why I reference both the new CD RepRom and the old manual. The old one also covers the replacement of the swing arm threaded inserts in the frame and the RepRom does not.

M10 Loctite 243 and 41 Nm ; same bolts, same holes.

Enjoy the trip.
Mucho gracias. I am surprised things moved enough to cause interference, but I guess I shouldn't be given the number of other LT owners who have reported issues with that bolt. I can't believe the engine moved that much so if it isn't the actuator to centerstand then it must be the centerstand to gearbox. Looks like a small winter project to try to loosen and shift those rearward a little.

I really don't want to have to drop the actuator at each oil change.
 

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Well, wax the bike tomorrow and then take a shake down ride to ensure all is well with oil change and new rear tire. Then leave Saturday morning for a month or so ride around much of the perimeter of the US! And hope the LT doesn't die on me somewhere...
Hope you have a great time with good weather Matt.
 
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Hope you have a great time with good weather Matt.
Thanks! Funny you mention this as I was remembering my first bike trip out west on my 87 Kawasaki Voyager.

The difference between riding the Kawasaki and the LT is:

A Kawasaki rider worries about the weather and not the Kawasaki.

A BMW rider worries about the BMW and not the weather!

I literally never considered that the Voyager would give any trouble on the way to SLC and back - and it didn't. I actually expect the LT to not make it to Califirnia and back without significant trouble. :frown:
 

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Thanks! Funny you mention this as I was remembering my first bike trip out west on my 87 Kawasaki Voyager.

The difference between riding the Kawasaki and the LT is:

A Kawasaki rider worries about the weather and not the Kawasaki.

A BMW rider worries about the BMW and not the weather!

I literally never considered that the Voyager would give any trouble on the way to SLC and back - and it didn't. I actually expect the LT to not make it to Califirnia and back without significant trouble. :frown:
I think you have already dealt with most of the significant gotchas on your LT so may your Voyage be about the weather. do you have a route planned or are you just winging it?
 

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Voyager, just ride your Beemer, and pretend it's the 'Saki ------ great weather protection and a successful trip. I've given up the worrying about my bike not getting me home. If it's no fun to ride, then might as well take your car. Ride safe and watch the "idiots"
 

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I think you have already dealt with most of the significant gotchas on your LT so may your Voyage be about the weather. do you have a route planned or are you just winging it?
A little bit of both. I created a rough 28 day itinerary in Basecamp that takes us into Canada at the peace bridge and across Michigan and then the SS Badger across the lake. West to South Dakota to visit relatives and then to Yellowstone and maybe Glacier NP. Then down towards Crater Lake and California to see the redwoods and sequoias. Across Death Valley towards the Grand Canyon. Through Santa Fe and then planned to visit friends in Port Aransas,TX, but after Harvey trashed their hotel, likely won't be going there. Then east to the a Barber museum and then on towards Kitty Hawk. Up the coast to Chincoteague and then meander back towards home.

There are lots of other sights I didn't mention for brevity's sake, but that is the rough route. Keeping things flexible though and will re-assess day by day. My sister and brother-in-law are traveling part of the way with us, but they have only 16 days so will head east after Yellowstone. They are winging it. No, really ... they ride a Wing. :grin:
 
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Voyager, just ride your Beemer, and pretend it's the 'Saki ------ great weather protection and a successful trip. I've given up the worrying about my bike not getting me home. If it's no fun to ride, then might as well take your car. Ride safe and watch the "idiots"
Oh, I don't worry about it. I am just saying that after 30 years if riding various Kawasaki bikes I simply expected them to get me there trouble free. After 10 years on the LT, I expect something to break. Just my experience with these two brands.
 
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Oh, I don't worry about it. I am just saying that after 30 years if riding various Kawasaki bikes I simply expected them to get me there trouble free. After 10 years on the LT, I expect something to break. Just my experience with these two brands.
Well, if by chance it breaks anywhere near Atlanta, give me a shout. I don't have a trailer but I do have some tools, a gs911, a lift and a scant few spare parts. If you are skirting the outside, you probably won't get too close to me though. Hope you have fun.
 
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