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Discussion Starter #1
Holey moley it seems my rear seal is leaking. This is a financial disaster and my question to all. is why? 55k miles, always timely oil changes, why would BMW design this flaw?
I know these are stupid questions but damn I am PO.

Found a shop in PDX to do the work, as it appears too large a process for me in a small garage. After seeing the awesome PDF of a seal change (very well done) I am moving on.

Just venting, but what causes this on a fine machine? $27.00 part and oh so much labor.

thanks,
Bill, dp, soc, aaa, aarp, ama, OMPA, SOFAT.
 

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I know for me it was because my bike was sitting for two years before i purchased it.
 

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Just wonderin'....In the 'bad-old-days' when tolerances in vehicles were (for lack of a better term) sloppier than they are now, a common, but temporary, fix for "the drips" was the addition of one of the many stop leak products that one poured into the engine oil, the transmission, the final drive, the power steering box, or wherever there was a not-too-heavy leak. The stuff worked, as I understand it, by slightly swelling the oil seal or gasket....just to coax a few more miles out of the old beast, especially if funds were tight. Obviously, it wasn't permanent (though sometimes the fix interval was pretty long) but it bought some time.

Query: Anyone here admit to pouring some of this 'magic elixir' into the LT? And if so, we'd all kinda like to know what the results were (at least I would).
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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Usually it is not the $30 real seal that leaks but rather the $2.00, 19x4 o-ring on the output shaft. Now I'll bet you are really PO'ed. Make sure they use a Viton o-ring for the replacement and not the stock BMW o-ring.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well I thank you all for your responses. Will probably never know WHY but at this time it makes no difference, just curious. I will get the work done with the note re: the o-ring, thank you for the info.

Have her ready to go into the shop, stripped as much as I could to save a few minutes of shop time.

Will post when it's all over.

Later all.
bp
 

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I'm at three years since the dealer did mine, ridden almost everyday and well maintained and the same dealers telling me it's start'n to leak, Again. WTH over
 

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jzeiler said:
Usually it is not the $30 real seal that leaks but rather the $2.00, 19x4 o-ring on the output shaft. Now I'll bet you are really PO'ed. Make sure they use a Viton o-ring for the replacement and not the stock BMW o-ring.
That is correct. I doubt you can get a dealer to use a Viton O-ring, unless you supply it.

You can get a Viton 19X4 O-ring Here:
http://www.theoringstore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=368_65_169&products_id=19200

When the OP said "rear seal", I assumed he meant engine rear seal, not final drive seal.
 

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Bill, I feel your pain, my LT started to leak as well, in SoCal ballpark is $1500-2300, ouch!
only 37,000 on my 2001, so I figure just like me, its old age :confused: It sounds like you have a shop that is willing to work with you on labor, most charge you the time the book tells them to remove plastic not the actual time it thats them, book says one hour, my guy can do it in 15 minutes.

Great tip on the O-ring, i'll have to remember that for my repair, I need to ride mind til it's dead, cost the same now or later, Might try some majic elicer
 

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