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Just attempted to clean the sound system stingray LED screen with denatured alcohol. I think it ate into the surface of the acrylic screen. It now needs to be "resurfaced" somehow. Clearcoat scratch remover and a small dremel buffing wheel have failed. Suggestions appreciated.
 

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hoodoodrum said:
Just attempted to clean the sound system stingray LED screen with denatured alcohol. I think it ate into the surface of the acrylic screen. It now needs to be "resurfaced" somehow. Clearcoat scratch remover and a small dremel buffing wheel have failed. Suggestions appreciated.
No gaurantee, butt since it's buggered, try some WD-40. Rub 'til you start cussin', then take a rest; bring the SO's hairdryer out and work it back and forth across the screen a few times just to evaporate any residue. Like I said, no gaurantee, butt it works for me. YMMV.

(And you're sure you used de-natured alcohol? Yeah, I know; you prolly did, butt just make sure it's fresh, de-natured. I had to get mine from a pharmicist AFTER I rubbed the other kind on a cage radio display that curdled!).
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Dick,

It was definately denatured alcohol. I bought mine at the hardware and it said on the back...."excellent mild cleaner/solvent". At the moment, I am using some very mild rubbing compound on the dremel buffer tip. It's getting there, but Oh what a PITA!!! If it doesn't work, I'll go for the WD-40.
 

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I did that to mine, screwed it up, but found the post here on this site and took the tips for others and cleared right up.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Crap, crap, crap,....... Now I have to look at that mess until the radio goes and I pull the stingray again to get at the plastic lens display. I wonder if the lens is an actual part. I can't locate it on the fiche or service manual.
 

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Greetings.

What a bummer. I bet your heart stopped as you watched that little screen mist over hey!

Don't freak.

Get yourself a small piece of rag, some good quality auto polish, not cut and polish though, wrap the rag around your finger with a small dollop of the polish on it and work the polish in using a small round circular motion until all is clear again. Be careful not the smear the polish on the black surrounding area of your little screen. No big deal if you do, the polish cleans off easy. This works a treat.

Let me know how you go.

Good luck and kindest regards.

Paul Harrington
AU

[email protected]
 

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Discussion Starter #8
harrowbmw said:
Greetings.

What a bummer. I bet your heart stopped as you watched that little screen mist over hey!

Don't freak.

Get yourself a small piece of rag, some good quality auto polish, not cut and polish though, wrap the rag around your finger with a small dollop of the polish on it and work the polish in using a small round circular motion until all is clear again. Be careful not the smear the polish on the black surrounding area of your little screen. No big deal if you do, the polish cleans off easy. This works a treat.

Let me know how you go.

Good luck and kindest regards.

Paul Harrington
AU

[email protected]
Thanks Paul, unfortunately it appears that I will have to use a cut polish and then a finishing polish on the end of my dremel tool. The haze is deeper than I thought.

My advice to anyone attempting the denatured alcohol treatment to the display lens is ......... DON'T until you test it first in a small area!!!!
 

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Careful with that dremel tool. It is easy to burn/melt the plastic with it, and that will make matters even worse. I, personally, wouldn't use any kind of powered buffer on something like that. As an alternative I woud try masking the whole area off, leaving just the "window" exposed. Then start wet sanding (lightly) with 2000 grit paper, then 2500, 3000, 4000, 6000 then 8000. Followed by, of all things, toothpaste to give the final polish. The "sand papers" are micromesh and will polish out any scratches and impefections.

Micromesh and descriptions of its uses http://www.sisweb.com/micromesh/
 

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hoodoodrum said:
Just attempted to clean the sound system stingray LED screen with denatured alcohol. I think it ate into the surface of the acrylic screen. It now needs to be "resurfaced" somehow. Clearcoat scratch remover and a small dremel buffing wheel have failed. Suggestions appreciated.
If I remember correctly isopropyl alcohol and denatured alcohol are two different beasts. Isopropyl is what is commonly used for cleaning acrylic.

Regardless, you have more or less chemically "melted" the surface of the plastic, and no amount of buffing, micro mesh, etc. is going to bring it back.

The only possible way you might be able to fix it is if you can get the lens out and lay it in on a horizontal surface. Buy some FUTURE brand floor "wax". It is liquid acrylic - the same polymer, more or less - that the lens is made from.

Mask the edges of the lens so it cannot puddle underneath, then apply a thin coating. An eye dropper is an ideal tool to use as an applicator. Let it sit for 24 hours to completely dry, you may need to repeat this. If you're lucky it will bond with the lens surface and restore the optical characteristics.

If you've used any wax or buffing compound on the lens already you'll need to thoroughly clean it off with isopropyl first.

Good luck Jim, and if you or any members of your Impossible Mission force are killed or captured, the Secretary will disavow all knowledge. This reply will self destruct in 5 seconds. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #11
RonKMiller said:
If I remember correctly isopropyl alcohol and denatured alcohol are two different beasts. Isopropyl is what is commonly used for cleaning acrylic.

Regardless, you have more or less chemically "melted" the surface of the plastic, and no amount of buffing, micro mesh, etc. is going to bring it back.
It melted it alright, but I'm pretty sure I can get it back to "clear view". The question is I need to find the correct grit to sand off the outside layer and then polish back to a clear view. I'm gonna head to the auto parts store and find some various supplies. Will take some time.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Morley said:
Careful with that dremel tool. It is easy to burn/melt the plastic with it, and that will make matters even worse. I, personally, wouldn't use any kind of powered buffer on something like that. As an alternative I woud try masking the whole area off, leaving just the "window" exposed. Then start wet sanding (lightly) with 2000 grit paper, then 2500, 3000, 4000, 6000 then 8000. Followed by, of all things, toothpaste to give the final polish. The "sand papers" are micromesh and will polish out any scratches and impefections.

Micromesh and descriptions of its uses http://www.sisweb.com/micromesh/
Good suggestions. The dremel is fine so long as I wet buff.
 

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I use "Mother's Mag & Aluminum Polish" on my iPod every few months to remove all of the scratches of the it's plastic face. I have used it on other painted and plastic surfaces as well with awesome results. It's a cream with an EXTREMELY mild abrasive in it (obviously). I discovered the stuff when looking for something to maintain the aluminum frame that I had polished and buffed to a chrome-like finish on my Ninja. Love the stuff!


 

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Discussion Starter #14
messenger13 said:
I use "Mother's Mag & Aluminum Polish" on my iPod every few months to remove all of the scratches of the it's plastic face. I have used it on other painted and plastic surfaces as well with awesome results. It's a cream with an EXTREMELY mild abrasive in it (obviously). I discovered the stuff when looking for something to maintain the aluminum frame that I had polished and buffed to a chrome-like finish on my Ninja. Love the stuff!
Yes I am familiar with that stuff. Excellent product and I may yet try that. I made a run to AutoZone and bought 800 & 1000 fine sandpaper. I cut the surface down wet sanding and was able to get out 80% of the damage and then used red rubbing and white fine surface polishing compound. It's much better but not even close to what the lens surface was yesterday afternoon (even given the microscopic lines and haze I was trying to eliminate with the alcohol). "Bang my head on the wall"!!!!

Hard lesson learned here about hard clear plastics. BE CAREFUL!!!!!
 

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Others have already given you good advice ... I'll just add when mine turns (Which is almost every time it gets some rain on it ) I use SIMICHROME.

Clears it right up again like new.
 

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hoodoodrum said:
It melted it alright, but I'm pretty sure I can get it back to "clear view". The question is I need to find the correct grit to sand off the outside layer and then polish back to a clear view. I'm gonna head to the auto parts store and find some various supplies. Will take some time.
I just had a better idea.:think:

Why not fabricate a new one and save yourself alot of grief? (assuming it comes out relatively easily...never taken that apart, but I have a feeling it is probably impossible without messing something up)

You could get a piece of scrap from a plastics supply house for nada, and the tool to score and cut the plastic is readilly available there as well...

Or, fabricate the part and glue it on top with some clear RTV silicone...?

Better yet, just buy a new bike! :bmw:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
RonKMiller said:
I just had a better idea.:think:

Why not fabricate a new one and save yourself alot of grief? (assuming it comes out relatively easily...never taken that apart, but I have a feeling it is probably impossible without messing something up)

You could get a piece of scrap from a plastics supply house for nada, and the tool to score and cut the plastic is readilly available there as well...

Or, fabricate the part and glue it on top with some clear RTV silicone...?

Better yet, just buy a new bike! :bmw:
Sure would be nice if I could fabricate the bugger. From what I can tell the lens is part of the entire radio control unit @ $427. Oh what a joy!!!
 

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hoodoodrum said:
Sure would be nice if I could fabricate the bugger. From what I can tell the lens is part of the entire radio control unit @ $427. Oh what a joy!!!
I have been into the radio that far and if I remember right when I removed the radio from the " Stingray" the window was still in the housing. SOOO.... you "should" be able to remove it and replace it Just my .02
 

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Discussion Starter #19
katnapinn said:
I have been into the radio that far and if I remember right when I removed the radio from the " Stingray" the window was still in the housing. SOOO.... you "should" be able to remove it and replace it Just my .02
Unfortunately, it appears that the control unit (the one with the 8 pushbuttons) is one piece.
 

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hoodoodrum said:
Unfortunately, it appears that the control unit (the one with the 8 pushbuttons) is one piece.
The radio itself "WILL" come off 'cause I've done it. it takes a "VERY" small allen or torx wrench (It's early & I've not had my coffee yet) so I can't remember witch it is. I had a small leek in the display window and sealed it from the inside.Good Luck!!
 
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