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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What would cause the lock on my center box on the tank stop working? I took it apart (with great difficulty since it was locked and button would not depress but key turns easily from side to side!) i finially kind of popped the lid open by flexing it a little which let me get to the screws and remove the cover plate. The lock cylinder came out easy enough and the lock bar retracted to the open position. The lock will turn with the key rotating a rectangle end but will not depress at all! The retaining lock bar also will not now clamp to hold the ld down. Any ideas? Just had the battery replaced by the dealer under warranty it went bad in a month but that is another story! Lol. Got it back home and lid would not unlock. No problems before this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Ok, got it fixed! Took it all apart again, reinserted the lock cylinder. Used key fob and locked unlock a couple of times no luck. Gave it a little gentle persuasion with palm of my hand and it popped all the way in and down and started working again! What a pain in the ass! However all is right with the world and Calamity is back on the road with a new battery now on a permanent auto tender so the battery never gets so low again while we are traveling in the RV. I can see a toy hauler in my future so I can take her with us!
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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OK now we know you have an 05 or up. CRITICAL - the two scews that are even with the latch holding the tupperware "tounge" of the stingray. The one on the shifter side MUST be a very short screw or it will jam the electronic lock.
 

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John

Once again you are Da Man. I have been having issues with this for the past 6 months and was going to spend some time on it on the weekend. I had come to the conclusion that it was one (or both) of those two screws but I had not figured out why. I did learn through the experience that if I pressed n the latch while I activated the remote that it would unlock. I will check the screw length tomorrow. By the way, anyone have a schematic, or cheat sheet of some kind, showing where the long and short screws go? For most of the assembly it does not seem to matter much but I really don't know anymore adn tend to just guess based on what parts I am screwing together.

Jim
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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Except for that one screw, you can generally use a long screw anywhere and especially where there is a rubber well nut and for most all of the other areas it does not matter what length. If it goes through two pieces of tupperware use a long one, if only one piece use a short one. Normally the two that hold the black rubber tipover bar cover are also short.
 

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jzeiler said:
Except for that one screw, you can generally use a long screw anywhere and especially where there is a rubber well nut and for most all of the other areas it does not matter what length. If it goes through two pieces of tupperware use a long one, if only one piece use a short one. Normally the two that hold the black rubber tipover bar cover are also short.
+1. First time I removed the tupperware(tm) I was extremely careful in documenting the placement of those short and long screws. I had a cardboard where I stored all the screws by pushing them through it and making a note of the location of the screw. Just when I got TW off I of course dropped the carboard and all screws were all over the garage floor. Well - after that day I haven't put any energy in thinking of where to use long or where to use the short ones...
 
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