BMW Luxury Touring Community banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
440 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
After changing brake lines to new steel braided ones on my 05 LT and changing the fluid, I've only really started riding again because I've been dealing with a broken small toe that made wearing boots painful. Once I could put some miles on the bike, I've noticed that the brake pedal seems to go down further than I seem to remember. It doesn't rise when I pump the brakes, which is usually an indication that there is air in the line. All the fluids are at the proper levels and the brake pads for the rear have a decent amount of lining left. Everything seems to work OK, it's just that I have to push down a ways to engage it, rather than have it work sooner. Is this normal, or is there a way to adjust this?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,104 Posts
It sounds like you might have a bit of air in the lines, flush it again. It should take care of the issue.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
129 Posts
+1 on that. I installed steel braided lines last year and had the same issue.
 

·
Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
Joined
·
14,246 Posts
May even try emptying the reservoir and push fluid from the ABS tall bleed port (outboard) back to the reservoir. Use a syringe and see if that doesn't do it for you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
440 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
jzeiler said:
May even try emptying the reservoir and push fluid from the ABS tall bleed port (outboard) back to the reservoir. Use a syringe and see if that doesn't do it for you.
How would that make any difference from the way you normally bleed the rear control circuit? What are the smaller bleed nipples for? There's four of them in all. They must do something.
 

·
Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
Joined
·
14,246 Posts
Yes the proper BLEED sequence is port 1 then port 2 followed by port 3 and back to port 1 again. Here is the legend for the rear.

Pushing fluid from the unit back to the reservoir will sometime dislodge an air bubble. BMW fills the unit from the front caliper and a fill port on the side of the ABS at the factory.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
440 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
jzeiler said:
Yes the proper BLEED sequence is port 1 then port 2 followed by port 3 and back to port 1 again. Here is the legend for the rear.

Pushing fluid from the unit back to the reservoir will sometime dislodge an air bubble. BMW fills the unit from the front caliper and a fill port on the side of the ABS at the factory.
Are all three of those bled by just using the foot switch? Are they all in the rear control circuit? I might need to do the front ones as well, just to be safe, as I replaced all the lines, even though I haven't noticed anything out of the ordinary there.. Do you have the sequence for those as well?
 

·
Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
Joined
·
14,246 Posts
Yes these are just for bleeding the control circuit. Similar for the front. 1, 2, 3, and 1 again.

1 is the bleed screw, 2 is the integral port, and 3 is the metering port.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
440 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
jzeiler said:
May even try emptying the reservoir and push fluid from the ABS tall bleed port (outboard) back to the reservoir. Use a syringe and see if that doesn't do it for you.
I tried that and the fluid wouldn't go the other way back into the rear brake cylinder. I did try the other procedure, and I got some dirty fluid out of one of them, which was the number two port I believe, so unless you do this procedure, you are not doing a total fluid change apparently. I seem to have a little more pedal after this procedure though. The nipples are really hard to get at and get a wrench on however.
 

·
Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
Joined
·
14,246 Posts
If you cannot push fluid back into the rear reservoir then the master cylinder is out of adjustment. Make sure that the pin that goes from the pedal into the MC has some free play (about 0.020"). Place a feeler gage between the stop bolt where the brake switch is and the brake pedal. Then loosen the lock nut and adjust rod until there is free play, then adjust out the free play and lock the lock nut and remove the feeler. You should then be able to push fluid back to the reservoir.


This being out of adustment would make a regular bleed hard to do as it was not opening up the return port on the MC.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
440 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
jzeiler said:
If you cannot push fluid back into the rear reservoir then the master cylinder is out of adjustment. Make sure that the pin that goes from the pedal into the MC has some free play (about 0.020"). Place a feeler gage between the stop bolt where the brake switch is and the brake pedal. Then loosen the lock nut and adjust rod until there is free play, then adjust out the free play and lock the lock nut and remove the feeler. You should then be able to push fluid back to the reservoir.


This being out of adustment would make a regular bleed hard to do as it was not opening up the return port on the MC.
Where are you getting all this info and pictures? I'm not finding this in any of my manuals.
 

·
Registered
1999 LTC
Joined
·
14,458 Posts
tonyn1 said:
Where are you getting all this info and pictures? I'm not finding this in any of my manuals.
OEM shop manual, page 34.14 is what John is showing you, in addition to his expertise in wrenching on the LT motorbikes! Good luck, Tony.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
440 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Dick said:
OEM shop manual, page 34.14 is what John is showing you, in addition to his expertise in wrenching on the LT motorbikes! Good luck, Tony.
So where do I get one of those?
 

·
Registered
1999 LTC
Joined
·
14,458 Posts
tonyn1 said:
So where do I get one of those?
Your dealer can get you one. A little pricey - or you may be able to pick one up on Flea Bay or the classifieds here or on MOA - someone may no longer have an LT, butt still have a manual. You can also obtain a Clymers manual that a lotta folks use. Just google that and see what comes up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
440 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Dick said:
Your dealer can get you one. A little pricey - or you may be able to pick one up on Flea Bay or the classifieds here or on MOA - someone may no longer have an LT, butt still have a manual. You can also obtain a Clymers manual that a lotta folks use. Just google that and see what comes up.
I have the Clymers, and the manual on CD, but those don't have stuff in them like what John was able to tell me. I'll have to check around for one.
 

·
Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
Joined
·
14,246 Posts
tonyn1 said:
I have the Clymers, and the manual on CD, but those don't have stuff in them like what John was able to tell me. I'll have to check around for one.

If you have the RepRom BMW CD it is in the "replace rear ABS master Cylinder" section.

What I had posted earlier was from the early PDF manual.

Here is a screen shot from the RepRom CD.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
440 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
jzeiler said:
If you have the RepRom BMW CD it is in the "replace rear ABS master Cylinder" section.

What I had posted earlier was from the early PDF manual.

Here is a screen shot from the RepRom CD.
Sorry I took so long to reply, but I just got back from a trip. How do I get one of those CDs?
 

·
Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
Joined
·
14,246 Posts
tonyn1 said:
Sorry I took so long to reply, but I just got back from a trip. How do I get one of those CDs?
I got mine from a dealer P/N 01790309672 but I just checked the parts list and it is no longer available. The Clymer manual is pretty good though. May find one on e-bay.
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top