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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
When discussing the "clunk", from my 1999 K1200LT with 48K on the clock and no synthetics in the wells (part of the problem, I'm sure), with some BMW riders at a recent RTE, they suggested "preloading the shifter". I asked what preload meant and they, to my satisfaction, explained it to me. From my take, it meant to put pressure on the shifter before a slight lever pull and "blip" of the throttle as I put it in the next gear up. I tried this many times since and I can't find a smooth way of doing this.
What am I doing wrong? I'm a drummer and feel I'm fairly coordinated, but I just can't "feel" the action needed to shift seamlessly/quietly.
Thanks for any insight,
Jer
 

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jers99lt said:
When discussing the "clunk", from my 1999 K1200LT with 48K on the clock and no synthetics in the wells (part of the problem, I'm sure), with some BMW riders at a recent RTE, they suggested "preloading the shifter". I asked what preload meant and they, to my satisfaction, explained it to me. From my take, it meant to put pressure on the shifter before a slight lever pull and "blip" of the throttle as I put it in the next gear up. I tried this many times since and I can't find a smooth way of doing this.
What am I doing wrong? I'm a drumming and feel I'm fairly coordinated, but I just can't "feel" the action needed to shift seamlessly/quietly.
Thanks for any insight,
Jer
I don't blip the throttle. Just apply a little upward pressure on the shift lever as you start to pull the clutch lever in. Most folks find that very little clutch lever travel is required to facilitate a smooth gear change. Let the clutch lever out smooth & quick, then roll on the throttle...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Schweintechnik said:
I don't blip the throttle. Just apply a little upward pressure on the shift lever as you start to pull the clutch lever in. Most folks find that very little clutch lever travel is required to facilitate a smooth gear change. Let the clutch lever out smooth & quick, then roll on the throttle...
Does the same throttle scenario go for downshifting? I was instructed to stay in gear as much as possible, both up and down shifting. When is matching the RPM with MPH needed if the throttle stays constant during a shift?
Jer
 

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I agree with Dave. In fact, I find it even better to put a little pressure on the shift lever before pulling in the clutch on the up shifts. You can feel the shift lever slide into gear just as you pull in the clutch a tiny bit.

Some have also suggested lubing and adjusting the shift lever.

The biggest change was when I went from the factory transmission fluid to Amsoil Severe Gear Synthetic 75W90 oil. I can actually upshift fairly smoothly without even using the clutch, but do anyway.
 

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Jerry - I think you may want to try to make your shift around 3800 to 4000 rpm and do the shift fast if you have the stock exhaust system.
My own style on the down shifting if you were coming off a freeway is to leave the bike in the high gear and coast , use the front brake to get your self slowed down and the last 10 feet before you stop, pull the clutch in and with a light touch on the gear shifter pop on down threw all the gears until your in first. Now you are stopped and if you see you are going to be there awhile put the bike in neutral.
On down shifting while you are riding I just pull in the clutch and tap the gear shift down some what fast.
99LT 138k
 

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Do the same thing but, instead of pulling clutch, apply the pressure to the shift, drop the throttle & it will shift. Once you learn this, it will be very smoth. This bike shifts smoother without the clutch than anything else with a cluth.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Time for a road trip

I'll try out all of your suggestions and see what works for me and the bike.
I've also read the other threads on shifting, but they all seemed to drift off into other areas. There seems to be many ways to get the same thing done, but the ultimate goal for me is to always be in gear ,as smoothly as possible.

Thanks for your help,
Jer
 

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I have mastered all my other vehicles but this one. I still can't do 1,2 & 3 up shifts that are smooth and seamless. 4 & 5 on the up shift are OK as well as downshifts all the way to first. You'd think I would have it by now after 3 years and 30K. Do you think taking it to 6 grand before shifting has anything to do with it?
 

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1st to 2nd is the hardest cause it's the longest travel. I was taught by the dealer to not use the clutch & it is extremely smooth! When done correct there is no noise, no resistance, just very smooth shifting. Anything that easy & that smooth can't be hurting anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I couldn't do it again though.

Big_E said:
1st to 2nd is the hardest cause it's the longest travel. I was taught by the dealer to not use the clutch & it is extremely smooth! When done correct there is no noise, no resistance, just very smooth shifting. Anything that easy & that smooth can't be hurting anything.
So that is where you use the throttle (off/on) to get the gears to engage?
It happened for me last night as I was trying Pete VanDykes suggestions almost on accident. I didn't think that I had pulled in the clutch lever and what-do-ya-know I'm in 2nd gear. :D I'll keep working at it.
It was soooooooo smoooooooth.
Jer
 
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