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Hello, fellow riders!

I have finally started my journey to work on my 99 K1200LT. Many of you here have guided me through this, and provided me with great tips, and words of encouragement. Now it is time to put it to practice. I am fairly handy, but when it comes to working on motorcycles...never done it before!

Last night I replaced the rear brake pads. No challenges there. Tonight, my first challenge was removing the mirror, which was step number 1. Could not believe I was already stuck on step 1. I bypassed that, and still have no idea how to get it off. Afraid to break it, so if you have done this before on a 99 K1200LT, your feedback is welcome. I moved on to the fairing, one screw at a time, making sure to put the screws next to each respective part. If I do not do this, I will probably mix them up. Upper and lower parts off.

My goal tonight was to replace the ignition cables and spark plugs. It has only 30K miles, but not sure what the previous owner did (I am the second owner). Turns out the cables were 12/12/2001. I guess time to change?! Could not tell how long the spark plugs were there, but the pictures attached will speak to you guys, for I have no idea. I changed the spark plugs and cables, started the bike, and voila! I was proud of my self (and so was my wife, since she wants her car back in the garage as soon as possible! The faster and accurate I complete this project, the happier the wife. :) I called it a quit for the night. Better to end on a successful note. I have attached some pictures below, before and after installing the cables and spark plugs (including old ones).

On a separate note, does the overall appearance look normal, in the sense of does it seem like it looks okay under the fairing?

Next, I will move on to the right side...More to come!

I welcome your feedback and comments.

Ride safe, All!
 

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Good job on the plugs and wires. Couldn't see the farthest away one real well but they all looked pretty normal. The mirrors are not difficult to get off and they often hit the floor and are very expensive to replace. First, look into the hole on the outside painted surface and see if the PO screwed them on. It will be pretty obvious as there is no screw on them from the dealer. If there is a screw, remove it first. No screw, proceed to next step.

Make sure you have one hand on the mirror during this and don't drop it. Hit it sharply on the outside edge that is facing the rear of the bike. It should pop off. There are 3 spring clips underneath and you will see how they work once you get it off. Look for a tether. If it doesn't have one, you will want to make one and attach it. If no tether, place the mirror somewhere where it won't hit the ground.

The tether can be anything like 200lb fishing line, a tie wrap attached to the bike and to the mirror to prevent it from bouncing should it get knocked off. You will figure out something and if not, after you bump your first one off and it hits the ground, you will after that. They actually do like to come off at inopportune times. Kirk has this mentioned in one of his videos with some ideas. I finally drilled, tapped and screwed mine on as the underlying plastic is broken and the spring clips don't function well any more. There are several posts on how to do repairs on the broken plastic and spring clips. It takes a good thump to get them back on also.

While you have the left side undone, take a good closeup of the engine and cable routing and keep it. That way you will have a reference on how to route the cables should you need to dig into that area. If not routed properly, the throttle can be stiff and the cruise may not work.
 

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I would look at the plugs first as they don't give them away ($$$). If the color is a nice even tan brown without heavy electrode deterioration or corrosion they should be fine.

I would quickly check the plug wires as follows: start the bike in a VERY dark area looking for signs of electrical halo's coming from the wires particularly at the cap ends on both the plugs and coils.

If the wires feel pliable w/o cracks or haloing I'd skip their replacement spending my money on brake/clutch flushing and new lines plus new OEM fuel, air filter. and the connecting fuel hoses in the tank. Plus, be certain the fuel tank quick connects are not the plastic type, if so REPLACE!

Those are some of the things that have left folks stranded.
 
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Once you do get the mirrors off be sure to lightly grease the ball pins and lock wires. This makes for easy removal and actually make the grip stronger to hold them on.
 

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Hi , when I take the mirrors off. I hold the mirrors with one hand, then push on it a little to kind of load it a bit. Then I bang it with the heal of the other hand. As jzeiler said, grease the ball pins and lock wires a bit.
 
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I would look at the plugs first as they don't give them away ($$$). If the color is a nice even tan brown without heavy electrode deterioration or corrosion they should be fine.

I would quickly check the plug wires as follows: start the bike in a VERY dark area looking for signs of electrical halo's coming from the wires particularly at the cap ends on both the plugs and coils.

If the wires feel pliable w/o cracks or haloing I'd skip their replacement spending my money on brake/clutch flushing and new lines plus new OEM fuel, air filter. and the connecting fuel hoses in the tank. Plus, be certain the fuel tank quick connects are not the plastic type, if so REPLACE!

Those are some of the things that have left folks stranded.
Thank you! I am going to remove the right side fairing in a moment. I did buy the fuel quick connects, without checking the need first. Worst case scenario, I will replace them anyway. Makes it for good practice. I have the air filter, and fuel filter, but am a bit hesitant to replace those my self. Still building some confidence. I replaced the spark plugs and wires, the picture shows the old ones.

Thank you, again. Great info.
 

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Good job on the plugs and wires. Couldn't see the farthest away one real well but they all looked pretty normal. The mirrors are not difficult to get off and they often hit the floor and are very expensive to replace. First, look into the hole on the outside painted surface and see if the PO screwed them on. It will be pretty obvious as there is no screw on them from the dealer. If there is a screw, remove it first. No screw, proceed to next step.

Make sure you have one hand on the mirror during this and don't drop it. Hit it sharply on the outside edge that is facing the rear of the bike. It should pop off. There are 3 spring clips underneath and you will see how they work once you get it off. Look for a tether. If it doesn't have one, you will want to make one and attach it. If no tether, place the mirror somewhere where it won't hit the ground.

The tether can be anything like 200lb fishing line, a tie wrap attached to the bike and to the mirror to prevent it from bouncing should it get knocked off. You will figure out something and if not, after you bump your first one off and it hits the ground, you will after that. They actually do like to come off at inopportune times. Kirk has this mentioned in one of his videos with some ideas. I finally drilled, tapped and screwed mine on as the underlying plastic is broken and the spring clips don't function well any more. There are several posts on how to do repairs on the broken plastic and spring clips. It takes a good thump to get them back on also.

While you have the left side undone, take a good closeup of the engine and cable routing and keep it. That way you will have a reference on how to route the cables should you need to dig into that area. If not routed properly, the throttle can be stiff and the cruise may not work.
Hello bmwcool1200! Thank you for another great feedback. I noticed a cable inside the mirror, and that is probably the tethering you are referring to. Mine is not as open as yours. I can also see what appears to be a clip. I have attached some pictures here. You will be able to see one what appears to be the clip you are referring to. There is another one where we can see a cable, which I believe is the tethering. The other ones are how it looks like. It is different than yours. Mine appears to have "vents". Yes, I heard the mirrors tend to fall off, but I believe this one is tethered.

I am considering removing the fairing on the right side tonight, so I can prep for flushing the rear brakes, and checking the fuel quick connects. I purchased the metal ones, even without knowing what I have. I will probably still replace it even if it is metal, unless it is not recommended I touch. I also have the air filter, and fuel filter, which I am a bit hesitant for now.

What did you think about the screws holding the exhaust in place? Do those need to be replaced?

Thank you for your time, and for helping me through this.
 

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Hi , when I take the mirrors off. I hold the mirrors with one hand, then push on it a little to kind of load it a bit. Then I bang it with the heal of the other hand. As jzeiler said, grease the ball pins and lock wires a bit.
Well, left side mirror is off! I guess I understand now what I need to grease. Thank you!
 

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Hello bmwcool1200! Thank you for another great feedback. I noticed a cable inside the mirror, and that is probably the tethering you are referring to. Mine is not as open as yours. I can also see what appears to be a clip. I have attached some pictures here. You will be able to see one what appears to be the clip you are referring to. There is another one where we can see a cable, which I believe is the tethering. The other ones are how it looks like. It is different than yours. Mine appears to have "vents". Yes, I heard the mirrors tend to fall off, but I believe this one is tethered.

I am considering removing the fairing on the right side tonight, so I can prep for flushing the rear brakes, and checking the fuel quick connects. I purchased the metal ones, even without knowing what I have. I will probably still replace it even if it is metal, unless it is not recommended I touch. I also have the air filter, and fuel filter, which I am a bit hesitant for now.

What did you think about the screws holding the exhaust in place? Do those need to be replaced?

Thank you for your time, and for helping me through this.
The exhaust bolts look par for the course and unless one is rusted tight should you ever remove them, don't worry. What would likely happen is the stud would back out with the nut. I think I had one do that and I just put it back in like that. It tightened just fine.

Those "vents" come out and after drilling and screwing the mirrors on, I just never put them back in. No functional loss there that I am aware of.
Yes, you can see where you need to grease. The plastic around the spring clips can break after repeated removals and re-installation as the plastic dries out and becomes more brittle over time. Mine has done so and I got it like that from the PO.

When you get the fairing off, you will see another point to put a little grease on and that is the rubber grommet that has a stud on the fairing. A little lube there will help future disassembly and also reassembly too. If you watched Kirks video, you know where all the hidden screws are to get the panel off.

Doing great!
 
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While you have the tupperware off, you might want to check on the brake lines...have they been updated? Also, have the quick connect fittings on the fuel lines been updated? Coolant flush/change is easier with the tupperware off, too.
 

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While you have the tupperware off, you might want to check on the brake lines...have they been updated? Also, have the quick connect fittings on the fuel lines been updated? .
He has already stated he has purchased the metal fuel line disconnects and will replace as needed. Looks like a good job so far.
 

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He has already stated he has purchased the metal fuel line disconnects and will replace as needed. Looks like a good job so far.
And it looks like Spieglers already installed in the pictures.
 

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Hello, All!

The project is getting scarier, as I continue to remove parts. I do not recognize this bike :) This is totally the unknown for me, but carrying on. I believe I have removed everything I could in order to remove the fuel tank.

Planning on replacing the fuel filter and the air filter. Picture 6009 shows some parts I am yet to install. I noticed two rubber o-rings. Are these spare, for I see them on the QD already? The clamps and hoses I will need to figure out where they go. Not sure which ones I need to replace here. Getting confused!

I also plan to flush the clutch fluid, and understand I should use DOT4 oil. Is the drain the thing showing on picture 6008? I understand I need the bleed valve, and that is on its way to me.

I have flushed the rear brake fluid, including the ABS compartment. You can see the difference in the oil color. I guess it was time to change. Front brakes still waiting for the vent valve to arrive. I have also changed the rear brake pads.

Picture 6009, I am assuming these hoses are for the assembly inside the tank. I purchased these parts one year ago, and do not remember now why I did it. I believe it was a recommendation from the forum friends.

Picture 5999, I was shocked with how low the coolant level was. It appears well below minimums. I am debating between flushing or simply adding coolant. I purchased two quarts of the coolant from BMW. They mentioned I should mix it with water, but not sure how much. I believe Kirk has a video on it. Also, on this same picture, the exposed wires, is this normal, or the protection is nearly gone?

Picture 6010, do I still have the plastic connectors there? QDs will be installed ASAP.

Looking at the other pictures, how is the overall appearance? Do you see anything abnormal?

I finally got the right side "tip over" bar out. Had to remove the entire assembly, and just hammered out once the assembly was off the bike. I greased a bit. Perhaps it will be easier to come out next time. I am also planning to lubricate the linkage as well.

I guess that for now that is it. Tomorrow I will attempt removing the fuel tank, and putting it back installing the QD. More of this journey to come.

As always, I appreciate your feedback and comments, as well as your support and encouragement. Thank you!
 

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Hello, All!

The project is getting scarier, as I continue to remove parts. I do not recognize this bike :) This is totally the unknown for me, but carrying on. I believe I have removed everything I could in order to remove the fuel tank.

Planning on replacing the fuel filter and the air filter. Picture 6009 shows some parts I am yet to install. I noticed two rubber o-rings. Are these spare, for I see them on the QD already? The clamps and hoses I will need to figure out where they go. Not sure which ones I need to replace here. Getting confused!

I also plan to flush the clutch fluid, and understand I should use DOT4 oil. Is the drain the thing showing on picture 6008? I understand I need the bleed valve, and that is on its way to me.

I have flushed the rear brake fluid, including the ABS compartment. You can see the difference in the oil color. I guess it was time to change. Front brakes still waiting for the vent valve to arrive. I have also changed the rear brake pads.

Picture 6009, I am assuming these hoses are for the assembly inside the tank. I purchased these parts one year ago, and do not remember now why I did it. I believe it was a recommendation from the forum friends.

Picture 5999, I was shocked with how low the coolant level was. It appears well below minimums. I am debating between flushing or simply adding coolant. I purchased two quarts of the coolant from BMW. They mentioned I should mix it with water, but not sure how much. I believe Kirk has a video on it. Also, on this same picture, the exposed wires, is this normal, or the protection is nearly gone?

Picture 6010, do I still have the plastic connectors there? QDs will be installed ASAP.

Looking at the other pictures, how is the overall appearance? Do you see anything abnormal?

I finally got the right side "tip over" bar out. Had to remove the entire assembly, and just hammered out once the assembly was off the bike. I greased a bit. Perhaps it will be easier to come out next time. I am also planning to lubricate the linkage as well.

I guess that for now that is it. Tomorrow I will attempt removing the fuel tank, and putting it back installing the QD. More of this journey to come.

As always, I appreciate your feedback and comments, as well as your support and encouragement. Thank you!
The two O-rings are spares for the QD's. BMW recommends replacing them every time the QD's are separated but that is a little excessive. Be careful not to damage them and you can get a few cycles out of them before they would need replacing or start to leak.

The hoses and clamps will be obvious when you get the fuel pump assembly out. You have new pre-formed hoses so disregard what I said about the nylon lines in the PM. The internal hoses may still have crimp type connectors that you will have to pretty much destroy to get them off but you have replacements and also screw type currently on the plastic hose barbs no no worries there. You may want to forgo the PEX crimp type if you don't have the crimp pliers but they can be dome with a set of side cutters carefully. My suggestion is to salvage the ones on the plastic barbs and use the new ones inside the tank with the new rubber hoses.

Yes, PIC 6008 shows the clutch ventilation screw fitting. You had to cut the tie wrap to get the right crash bar off. That is where you would perform the same procedure on the clutch as the front brakes with the fitting front right.

That looks like the BMW blue stuff or that with maybe something added. Looks a little dark but at least there is some in the overflow bottle. It doesn't look all that low. Go buy a gallon of distilled water to mix with your BMW quarts. You don't want to use tap water as it has dissolved minerals in it that can crust up things. The system only holds a gallon so pour out half :) and mix up the blue stuff like that if it says to do a 50/50 mix.

Yes, those are the plastic hose barbs. No issues with them. It was the plastic QD's that would crack and snap off causing leaks. You have the stainless ones. Pricey little things.

The only other thing that concerns me is the fluid of some kind around the fuel pump base. Not sure if that is fuel or oil or what the source is. The plastic ring may just be a darker shiny plastic but the fuel hose looks like it may have been leaking. Pic 6001 shows some exposed wires. It will be a good idea to tape those up with some cloth friction tape to keep them from being abraded and shorting on something. There may be other areas to tend to once you get the tank off and can see the rest of the harness.

Keep going.

Happy Valentines Day.
 

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Cooling system holds 2.5 liters with 0.6 liters in the overflow so 3.1 liters total. Trick to filling after the drain is go slowly and you won't have to "burp" the top cross hose. I mix up exactly 2.5 L of coolant/distilled water to fill the system. Then mix up 0.6 L for the tank. Best to drain by removing the lower hose at the water pump. Manual wants you to pull the temp sensor on the bottom of the pump but it is too easy to break it re-installing as it is only 9 Nm which is just a hair above "snug". It snaps easily.

When you do remove the fuel pump for the hose/filter change. Clean the opening in the tank and clean the rubber seal. It is installed DRY. Make sure there is no corrosion on the fuel flange that faces the seal, it should be clean and dry. Match the arrows on the pump and tank and tighten the union nut with a strap wrench.

Plus everything Gordon said.
 

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Cooling system holds 2.5 liters with 0.6 liters in the overflow so 3.1 liters total. Trick to filling after the drain is go slowly and you won't have to "burp" the top cross hose. I mix up exactly 2.5 L of coolant/distilled water to fill the system. Then mix up 0.6 L for the tank. Best to drain by removing the lower hose at the water pump. Manual wants you to pull the temp sensor on the bottom of the pump but it is too easy to break it re-installing as it is only 9 Nm which is just a hair above "snug". It snaps easily.

When you do remove the fuel pump for the hose/filter change. Clean the opening in the tank and clean the rubber seal. It is installed DRY. Make sure there is no corrosion on the fuel flange that faces the seal, it should be clean and dry. Match the arrows on the pump and tank and tighten the union nut with a strap wrench.

Plus everything Gordon said.
Thank you, thank you! Quantity duly noted. I was planning to drain the coolant removing that sensor, per Kirk's video. I am not sure which hose you are referring to, but will check. Also, I do not plan to warm up the bike after I replace the coolant, since most likely the tank will be off, or should I remove the tank only warming up the bike so the coolant may set?

I will pay close attention to the tank rubber seal, to ensure it is dry, and align the arrows.

Thank you for the great feedback.
 

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Kirk and I don't exactly do things the same way. It is the hose on the right side of the bike that goes from the water pump to the thermostat junction at the base of the right radiator. There is nothing to "set" with the coolant. As long as you pour slowly, by the time yous 2.5 L are gone the level should be in the neck of the filler tube. You are DONE. Don't forget to hook back up the hose first.

OK I just watched his video. He does warn you about the torque setting for that sensor, 9 Nm is like run it by hand until it stops and then one half to one flat further with a wrench ONLY. Best to use a quality wrench. Or just pull the big hose as you will get all but 30 ml of coolant out that way.

He also has you loosen the upper hose. I used to do that but I have found a slow pour will work as well.
 

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Kirk and I don't exactly do things the same way. It is the hose on the right side of the bike that goes from the water pump to the thermostat junction at the base of the right radiator. There is nothing to "set" with the coolant. As long as you pour slowly, by the time yous 2.5 L are gone the level should be in the neck of the filler tube. You are DONE. Don't forget to hook back up the hose first.

OK I just watched his video. He does warn you about the torque setting for that sensor, 9 Nm is like run it by hand until it stops and then one half to one flat further with a wrench ONLY. Best to use a quality wrench. Or just pull the big hose as you will get all but 30 ml of coolant out that way.

He also has you loosen the upper hose. I used to do that but I have found a slow pour will work as well.
Awesome! Thank you so much. I will proceed accordingly, and post results tonight. You guys are more than awesome.
 

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I am not sure which hose you are referring to, but will check.
It is pretty obvious by Johns description but here is a visual aid for the hose attaching to the water pump. The sensor is directly on the other side of the water pump so it is also the lowest point in the system. This is a better suggestion as that sensor as stated snaps off really easily and costs $56 to replace. You are less likely to damage the hose. I buggered an engine temp sensor once for a $120 mistake,,,Bummer! Take the hose off instead.
 

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