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Discussion Starter #1
My question to all you good folk is mainly what is the difference between the 99 and the later abs on say an 02
When you turn on an 02 you can hear the pump activate and the lights go out after the drive away test is ok, my 99 has the lights alternating and no sound from the pump at all is this a sinister sign or will the pump start once any codes are removed by the dealer or can you remove the codes yourself
ta muchly
Gv
 

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hey Gary
my 2002 alternates when the resivoirs under the seat is low , there are 2 on mine the rear is a bear to get at, last time I pumped mine dry doing a flush ididnt worry about any codes, and its been fine for 40k and it doesnt have to be very low to trigger the lights i dont know about your brakes system though
 

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gary4photos said:
My question to all you good folk is mainly what is the difference between the 99 and the later abs on say an 02
When you turn on an 02 you can hear the pump activate and the lights go out after the drive away test is ok, my 99 has the lights alternating and no sound from the pump at all is this a sinister sign or will the pump start once any codes are removed by the dealer or can you remove the codes yourself
ta muchly
Gv
Gary,

The 99 does not have a pump. As long as the alternating lights go out as you drive off, everything is the way it is suppose to be.

Ron
 

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Your 99 does not have a pump and also the brakes are not linked in any way. The lights should flash together until you reach approximately 3 miles per hour, then you may hear the final ABS cycle test. If your lights are flashing alternately, or wig wagging, they will not go out after you reach 3 mph and it is indicative of a low battery. You can charge the battery or even just ride the bike for 10 minutes or so and turn the switch off, then promptly restart the bike and you should find that the lights will return to normal.

Again, both lights flashing together is extinguishing at 3 mph is normal. Both lights flashing alternately and not extinguishing is a low battery warning.
 

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Gary,

A low battery can cause problems with the ABS and is a good place to start but the wig-wag lights indicate an ABS fault and not necessarily just a low batter.

Many people have had luck flushing the entire brake system. You should read the link below on how to reset the system yourself and how to read the codes.

http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30942

Kevin
 

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your '99 abs lights should flash simultaneously at start up. After 10 feet you should hear the click of the abs pistons and the lights go out. If the lights flash alternately that means the abs function has been disabled. This can be cleared with the gs-911, however as in my '01 i have been hearing that a failed abs unit is more common that i thought. it seems to me these abs units are another problem with the k1200.
 

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The alternating flashing lights do indeed indicate an ABS fault, but the first place to look is a low battery, IMHO. It is the easiest thing to check for and with the small capacity of our bike batteries it is not all that uncommon on the pre 02 brake systems. Each time I've had this warning light scenario it has always been cleared with a battery charge or change. As I said, drive the bike for a few miles then turn off the ignition and immediately restart the bike. If the lights go out when you drive away it was low battery fault. If not, then you have a larger problem. Common maintenance such as checking pads and changing fluid and bleeding the system should not be overlooked, but I think you'll find your problem lies with a low battery. Remember, a low voltage fault can be set even though the bike seems to start up normally. Before I pay a dealer to read the fault codes or buy a GS-911 (a fine piece of equipment by the way) I'd check the battery (low voltage) fault first.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
thanks folks i have new battery installed but still alternating lights
i guess it is a gs911 or trip yo a daler to clear codes
thanks for your time
 

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Gary,

A GS911 would be the easiest way to go but if you follow the directions in the post I linked to above you can read the code with a volt meter. You can also clear the code.

Thanks,
Kevin
 

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Recently, my ABS lights flash (alternately/wig-wag) after about 30 min. of highway speeds.

I did have a brake line replaced lately and the brakes feel fine.

Thoughts?
 

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You will first have to find the error code. Either a gs-911 or a dealer. I understand someone found a way to read the error codes. Check some old posts concerning this method.
 

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Also your '99 is the abs 2 brake system which means the master brake cylinders are not monitored so changing a brake line should not cause flashing lites. It could be sensors or abs relay but you will never know until you read the fault codes.
 

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After replacing the rear rotor with an EBC unit, I had an ABS error. Found the gap was too wide; removed shims to gain minimum clearance required in the repair manual. No problem since.
 

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I have an 01 and will be replacing the rear rotor with an EBC unit. When I do the work, should I automatically go ahead and remove the shims or not?

What are the shims you refer to?

has anyone else used the EBC unit and not done this?

I am very new to working on a motorcycle but am willing to learn the wrenching and anxious to save the $$$ but also anxious about doing something wrong that may be a safety concern!.

Thanks
 

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bump
 

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lkniess said:
I have an 01 and will be replacing the rear rotor with an EBC unit. When I do the work, should I automatically go ahead and remove the shims or not?

What are the shims you refer to?

has anyone else used the EBC unit and not done this?

I am very new to working on a motorcycle but am willing to learn the wrenching and anxious to save the $$$ but also anxious about doing something wrong that may be a safety concern!.

Thanks
Shims are under the sensor; the gap needs to be measured between the sensor and the ABS ring of the rotor. Gap should be 0.45mm - 0.55mm (0.018 - 0.022 in).
 

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lkniess said:
I have an 01 and will be replacing the rear rotor with an EBC unit. When I do the work, should I automatically go ahead and remove the shims or not?

What are the shims you refer to?

has anyone else used the EBC unit and not done this?

I am very new to working on a motorcycle but am willing to learn the wrenching and anxious to save the $$$ but also anxious about doing something wrong that may be a safety concern!.

Thanks
You have to move the ABS ring from rotor you remove and put in on the new EBC rotor. I've done two upgrades to the EBC rear rotor, mine and one more. and I never had to remove a shim to get the ABS sensor to read. If the ABS sensor had to be moved closer to the ABS ring, my thought is the ABS rings in not fully seated on the new rotor hub. JM2CW
 
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