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Discussion Starter #1
A couple weeks ago the throttle on my 2002 which has been very stiff since brand new finally got to the point where it would no longer close on its own. In 2003 I had the dealer check and they applied dry lube which helped for a couple of weeks but was still much stiffer than any other bike I had ever owned.

Using a combination of several sets of instructions posted by you guys I was able to do the job without the intervention of a dealership or EMS. The throttle is now silky smooth and lighter than it has ever been. The lighter action took a bit of getting used to and I still need to go practice the U-Turn box just to get my fine control dialed in.

I ordered the two cables and parts kit from Chicago BMW. Price on the web site was $171.32 but I later got an e-mail with a discount to $139.56, thanks! Definitely don’t waste money on the new lower plastic piece where the cables enter, just cut the hole shown in the pictures a little bigger than you think you need and you will be fine. You will never see it once installed.

There were a couple of things about my install that weren’t noted in any of the previous write-ups so I thought I’d share. Once I had my cables disconnected from the grip I noticed that the grip still had some drag going on when rotated. I traced the grip heater wire back down the steering neck and was able to loosen up enough wire to slide the grip completely off of the handle bar without breaking the wires. On the bar were several smears of black sludge that looked like either old grease, anti-seize, or just sticky dirt that had accumulated. I used a bit of WD-40 to break it down then wiped the bar clean. Ran the rag carefully inside of the grip and dried it off as well. Reassembled and it and was rewarded with a smooth light action. This was not the whole problem but it was definitely a contributing factor.

I installed the cables starting at the motor end first. Good thing because you need to do a lot of maneuvering and cussing to get them off and back on. The opening cable (green tape) is hardest to get back on the throttle body. I had my long suffering wife hold the throttle body open (rotated) using a screwdriver then she was able to assist me with getting the cable end seated by inserting a long flat blade screwdriver from above the throttle body to hold the lug end in place while I got the cable to bend into the opening.

The closing cable (white tape) is hardest to get off the throttle body. The little clip noted by the instructions that holds the cable in place is very difficult to get access to. You definitely need to use a mirror to look behind the cable end and see how it sits before you will have any hope of figuring out how to get it off. I found that by using a pair of wire cutters and cutting off the upright plastic tab on the end of the old cable I was able to push the cable in then rotate it to get the clip into a position where I could pop it off with a small awl. The word pop is very accurate as that is exactly what it does. Luckily it didn’t get very far but a magnetic retriever is a must. If I was smarter I would have put a layer of light cloth behind where I was working to catch the clip when it came off.

After reassembly everything worked and although I could probably stand to tighten up the opening cable just a touch no major adjustments were necessary. The effort was definitely well worth it and I’d recommend it to anyone with a stiff throttle.
 

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Good to hear.
I have the parts in my project pile but haven't found the time to put them on.
How many hours would you guess it took to install?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It took me about 5 hours start to finish. Had to take off all of the bodywork plus fuel tank. I did not take off the airbox like some have, I just took off the left side fan shroud to make clearance to the throttle body. Of course I was taking my time and used a couple of pieces of cardboard to keep track of all of the bodywork screws. Each time I took out a group of screws I pushed them through the cardboard and noted where they came from. Made reassembly much faster.
 

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I changed my throttle cables last weekend. I had little concern also how to get the clip removed and then installed to new cable.
After checking it for awhile I thought it would be easiest to remove the bracket that is holding both cables and cruise switch. Item #6 in attached picture.
On bike it is not so visible but you can see it. On my bike screws were T25 torx and right side screw is behind the fuel rail/injectors. I was able to take screws out and wiggle the bracket from behind the fuel rail. Then it was easy to remove clip (item #8) and replace it to new cable.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'd guess you removed your air box to get to the screws on the bracket? Looked like the only way to get to them and I figured that like most things I'd do it the hard way.
 

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I dreaded doing the throttle upgrade but it turned out to be a lot easier than I anticipated. I didn't remove the airbox and I used a pair of long needle nose pliers that were 45ed on the end. Got it the first try........ :D
 

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silverlt2002 said:
I'd guess you removed your air box to get to the screws on the bracket? Looked like the only way to get to them and I figured that like most things I'd do it the hard way.
I didn't remove airbox. Injector/Fuel rail are bit on the way but you can still see bracket screws. It was quite easy to remove the bracket.
 

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rattler50 said:
I dreaded doing the throttle upgrade but it turned out to be a lot easier than I anticipated. I didn't remove the airbox and I used a pair of long needle nose pliers that were 45ed on the end. Got it the first try........ :D
Ditto
I had a buddy working the lower connections while I swapped out the upper and modified the cover. Including tupperware it took us about 2 hrs. Not near as hard as I thought it was going to be. This mod runs just ahead of the HID for drastic improvements.
 
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