BMW Luxury Touring Community banner

1 - 20 of 33 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
141 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I just bought a 2002 K1200LT with 30000 miles. The clutch seems to slip when I accelerate hard, especially in higher gears pulling up hill. When I try to accelerate hard, the engine revs. Everything works properly under normal acceleration. Any suggestions as to what could be wrong? Any adjustments on the clutch. Thanks for your help.
 

·
Registered
The Villages, FL
Joined
·
2,592 Posts
Please fill out your profile so that we know who you are. As for your clutch, it may be the slave cylinder leaking that is causing clutch fluid to spray onto the clutch disk. The only fix for this is to replace the entire clutch assembly as well as the slave cylinder. Hopefully, you purchased your bike through a dealer who will cover this repair as it will be near $2k. It is unusual for the clutch to wear at only 30k miles unless it was ridden extremely hard.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
141 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
More Info

I rode the bike hard Thursday night and didn't notice the clutch slipping. I changed the engine oil and filter Friday. I know this is probably a silly question, but is it normal to have oil pour out of the filter cover when removing it to replace the filter? The clutch started slipping Sat after I had done the oil change. Could the oil change cause the clutch slippage?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
141 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I updated my profile and added more info to my post. Thanks for the help!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
192 Posts
The oil filter is in the oil sump so it's very normal for oil to still be there after removing the drain plug. It's not connected to the clutch or transmission so it should have no effect on your clutch perfomance.

Check your clutch fluid level per the manual. If it's low your slave cylinder may be leaking fluid on the clutch disc causing it to slip. It's a rare problem but it can happen. It's an expensive repair because of all the labor.

How much oil did you put in the bike after the change? The book says 4 qts but 3qts and 12 oz will fill mine above the dot. 4qts will be over full and may damage the rear main seal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
141 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
About 3.5 qts. I used the sight glass. I'll check the clutch fluid level. Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,402 Posts
jamiekiel said:
I rode the bike hard Thursday night and didn't notice the clutch slipping. I changed the engine oil and filter Friday. I know this is probably a silly question, but is it normal to have oil pour out of the filter cover when removing it to replace the filter? The clutch started slipping Sat after I had done the oil change. Could the oil change cause the clutch slippage?
The filter is contained within the wet sump, so yes, normal. Many of us never remove the oil drain plug, and just loosen the cover to drain old oil.

As for the slipping clutch, it's possible that the rear main seal is leaking. Take off the lower cover on the right side and see if there is oil seaping from the seam between the engine and tranny, up on the side. Sometimes a change of oil, like from organic to synthetic will set it off. The seal can shrink, for a variety of reasons. This happened to my 2001 at about 65k miles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
141 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I removed the top of the clutch fluid reservoir to check fluid level (couldn't tell through sight glass). Should the rubber diaphragm in the cover stick out or be pushed up inside the cover?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,402 Posts
jamiekiel said:
I removed the top of the clutch fluid reservoir to check fluid level (couldn't tell through sight glass). Should the rubber diaphragm in the cover stick out or be pushed up inside the cover?
When full it will be up in the cover. It's designed to pull down into the space created by receding fluid, thus leaving little airspace.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
141 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
When I removed the cover, it was down---making the fluid level read above the sight glass. I put it back up in the up position. The fluid level is now near the bottom of the glass. Also, the clutch engages as the clutch lever nears full release.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,402 Posts
jamiekiel said:
When I removed the cover, it was down---making the fluid level read above the sight glass. I put it back up in the up position. The fluid level is now near the bottom of the glass. Also, the clutch engages as the clutch lever nears full release.
Sounds like you have a leaky slave cylinder then.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
141 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
While reading through the previous owner's service records, I noticed that the rear pinion seal had been replace under warranty 3 times-- 14000, 22000, and 26000 miles--the last one 1 year ago. Would this have contributed to my clutch problem?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
141 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Oil Change

munson said:
The filter is contained within the wet sump, so yes, normal. Many of us never remove the oil drain plug, and just loosen the cover to drain old oil.

As for the slipping clutch, it's possible that the rear main seal is leaking. Take off the lower cover on the right side and see if there is oil seaping from the seam between the engine and tranny, up on the side. Sometimes a change of oil, like from organic to synthetic will set it off. The seal can shrink, for a variety of reasons. This happened to my 2001 at about 65k miles.

Munson,
I checked the previous owner's oil change records. He had used Mobil 1 synthetic since new, but changed to Castro ACT-EVO organic oil at 25000 miles. I put the Mobil 1 back in when I changed it at 30000 miles. No apparent leak.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
141 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
jamiekiel said:
Munson,
I checked the previous owner's oil change records. He had used Mobil 1 synthetic since new, but changed to Castro ACT-EVO organic oil at 25000 miles. I put the Mobil 1 back in when I changed it at 30000 miles. No apparent leak.

Thanks for the responses. Any other thoughts?
 

·
IBR# 366
Joined
·
16,544 Posts
jamiekiel said:
Thanks for the responses. Any other thoughts?
Sorry to say, but you need to strip the bike down and change the clutch, slave cylinder, and all related seals. That's a $1,400-$1,500 job at the dealers, mostly due to two full days labor. It may not slip every time you ride, but it sure won't get better by itself.

FWIW, mine is doing the same thing at 82K miles. Not every time I ride, but often enough to be a problem. Like you, I'm looking at a huge repair bill, or several days of seriously dirty work plus several hundred in parts costs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
141 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Thanks guys. Unless someone else has a solution, looks like I'll put it in the shop in Nashville. I'm located in N Alabama between Nashville, Birmingham, and Memphis. On another thread, everyone recommended Nashville. Sound like good advice?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
141 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
This bike was bought new in Nov 2002. Any chance that warranty might cover part of this? The bike just rolled over 30K miles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,341 Posts
jamiekiel said:
This bike was bought new in Nov 2002. Any chance that warranty might cover part of this? The bike just rolled over 30K miles.
BMW is 36K or 3 years from original in service date.. So I guess you are on your own.
 
1 - 20 of 33 Posts
Top