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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Guys,

I DID search before posting this thread. Here is my problem: When I first fire the bike up, I get the "normal" flashing, until I start moving. The lights go out. After a mile or so, the ABS lights come back on, "slow, alternating back and forth". When I hit a stop sign / light, I can turn off the ignition and start the bike back up, again the lights go out once I start moving. But, back on in a mile or so. I may repeat this scenario 3 to 4 times until, no problems the rest of the day. I can stop here and there for a hour or so and still, no ABS warning the rest of the ride. The next morning??? Same sh*t different day as they say!!! Other than that, I cannot say enough about how awesome this machine is!!!

Any help would be appreciated!!!

Thanks,

Brian
 

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I HOPE I'M WRONG, but....when you get the flashing lights do your brakes work as good as "normal"? I had this same issue intermittent flashing, sometimes I had full brake powere other times not, then the front power circuit quit working. Technically, it lost all power assist, but braking was still there just manual mode only. The rear circuit thankfully had full power all along. Eventually, my flashing lights were always on, until I replaced the ABS pump. Now all is good. What year is your bike, it makes a difference in the answers you will get from the experts here. ( I am not an expert.)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Re: New ABS Problem??? 2002 LT

Sorry, I have a 2002 LT. I have full power front and rear with the lights flashing. I sure hope it is NOT the unit!!!

Maybe I should do a flush??? I flushed it last fall, BEFORE the problem began, if this helps at all.
 

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If you have access to a GS-911 you can check faults on the ABS. Your symptoms are the same as what I had for low fluid in the rear reservoir. It doesn't have to be very low before the level switch will turn the light on.

Ron
 

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Alternating flash according to the Clymer indicates one or both of your rear brake fluid reservoirs are a tiny bit low. Make sure to check BOTH of them. It's probably the forward one of the two and is the hardest to see/get to. I usually take the fasteners out of the panel next to the reservoirs and am able to prop it open emough to add fluid.
Hope it's the simple solution for you :bmw:
 

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I just experienced a similar problem on my 2003 and K100dennis suggested checking the gap between the pick-up / sensor ring on the wheels. I had just painted wheels and had tires installed and had messed up the gap.the problem was fixed as soon as I got the gap back in spec.
 

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my 03 does that when the one of the rear reservoirs gets the tiniest bit low. When cold out or going down hill and putting the brakes on. Reset at the next light and good for the rest of the day. Top it off and/or change the rear brake pads would fix it. I don't know if your 02 has the same sensitive sensor for the brake level.
 

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mwnahas said:
my 03 does that when the one of the rear reservoirs gets the tiniest bit low. When cold out or going down hill and putting the brakes on. Reset at the next light and good for the rest of the day. Top it off and/or change the rear brake pads would fix it. I don't know if your 02 has the same sensitive sensor for the brake level.
ditto use a straw and thumb to refill. the old fill the straw in the bottle and put thumb on end and release thumb when straw in reservoir.

takes a while but works

Happens on my 02 when low.
 

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Ok now I'm confused.

I bought the 2000 K1200 LTC 2 years ago and have put about 6,000 miles on it. (All the miles above 6 mph are like a dream!,,,have dumped it 6 times below those speeds, no damage just scratches, I hate the bike in parking lots or city/highway gridlock, I regress, its worth it!)

Anyway the recent posts about bypassing the ABS to enable regular braking scare me.

I bought the bike and the ABS had the apparently common alternating ABS lights and got it 1800 bucks off the book for that. I was assured by the seller that it just reverts to normal braking, well since i never rode a bike with ABS that did not seem to be an issue and I would live with it. Again I have ridden over 6k miles with no problems.

Now with the recent posts about bypasssing the system makes me fearful I am missing something?

So here is my question: Why bypass the system, is there any possibility of inadvertent and/or uncontrolled braking action with it not bypassed and still installed?

Thanks for any insight.
 

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2005 K1200LT
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Mustang130,

The 2000 uses a different ABS system that is NOT power assisted nor does it monitor the fluid level in any reservoir. Bypassing this system leaves you fully functioning brakes but you can lock up a wheel (just like most bikes without ABS) so you have to use front and rear selectively with some skill to manage the stop.
 

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Thats what I have been doing.

It seems to be functioning the way you described now, it reverts to manual braking apparently?

Thanks for the reply but you missed the point.

Why bypass if it is already working that way?

Is there any danger of uncontrolled braking leaving it as is and not bypassing it?

Thanks again.
 

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Your 2000 is fine without the ABS functioning properly. It reverts to a "normal" brake function when there is an ABS fault. No need to bypass. The integrated (power assist) ABS systems can have problems which manifest themselves in the pressure needed at the levers. So when an integrated system has an issue you are much more likely to have a panic attack due to the power assist shutting down. If you want to see what it feels like get on a newer bike and roll it down the driveway without the ignition on, then apply the brakes. Caution: May cause brown stripes in your pants.
 

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Mustang130 said:
Thats what I have been doing.

It seems to be functioning the way you described now, it reverts to manual braking apparently?

Thanks for the reply but you missed the point.

Why bypass if it is already working that way?

Is there any danger of uncontrolled braking leaving it as is and not bypassing it?

Thanks again.
Well you may want to totally disconnect it electrically as there are the flashing lights to deal with. There is also high current motor in there that could end up running constantly due to further electrical failure modes and draining the battery. That is what I meant by "bypassing it" not re-routing the fluid lines.

All that unit normally does when functioning correctly is modulating the pressure applied through the movement of a very small "piston in chamber" method when a lockup of a wheel is detected by the wheel sensors.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for your input guys. I will try topping off the reservoirs first, before flushing the system. Thanks again!!!!
 
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