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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok i have a 2003 k1200lt and while out on a ride today I was at a stop and decided to feel my rear rotor to see if it was hot. Well it wasn't hot but it moves left to right. Very slightly but it clearly has movement. Can anyone tell me if this is normal. It does have ABS if that makes a difference
 

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Normal, eventually you will get a cow bell noise from it, deal with the noise or replace it with a ebc rotor. Md -615. Bmw rotors are $$$$. If and when you do, you might want to get an extra wheel spacer. Some have been known to rub against the wheel.
 

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sheldan2 said:
Normal, eventually you will get a cow bell noise from it, deal with the noise or replace it with a ebc rotor. Md -615. Bmw rotors are $$$$. If and when you do, you might want to get an extra wheel spacer. Some have been known to rub against the wheel.
+ 1 on what Mike said. On a disc brake system either the caliper or the rotor have to be able to float somewhat. On most automobiles the caliper floats & on most motorcycles the rotor floats.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
so shelden2 there is about 8 bolts that hold the rotor to the wheel. they are not loose but the rotor moves towards and away from them. the bolts look tapered so they seat to the rotor.could it be the bolts or is the rotor wore or is this normal from new
 

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The rotor has rivets that allow it to 'float' from the plate that attaches it to the rear end. If it is not clanging when you go over speed bumps or potholes you don't have a problem.

BMW removed some of the rivets early on to help with squealing brakes and eventually you might get a clang as the rivets loosen over time. Very common problem. Most replace the OEM with the EBC replacement when the noise becomes annoying.
 

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64deville said:
Ok i have a 2003 k1200lt and while out on a ride today I was at a stop and decided to feel my rear rotor to see if it was hot. Well it wasn't hot but it moves left to right. Very slightly but it clearly has movement. Can anyone tell me if this is normal. It does have ABS if that makes a difference
Ok, If your rotor wasn't warm, and you were using your rear brakes, then your rear caliper is NOT working. (depending on ABS lights) I am assuming that you are using your front brakes as well during stops. Try using rears only, on dry pavement, straight. JAM them on several times back to back. If the braking action feels good, and you have NO grinding noises, then your rotor and brakes should be fine. If not, just go ahead put the EBC rotor on, along with the EBC HH pads. No more problems.
 

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The Rotor is supposed to be pretty sloppy.. It's riveted with some big rings to the other half of the rotor... You should be able to move it around with your finger... That's why it can "ring like a bell".

Unless you're getting noises that you finally just can't stand.. You're ok...It can sound like a cowbell dragging if it's funky..

Look up inside the caliper and you can see the brake shoes and generally you can tell if they're getting close to worn out...

I think your 03 has linked power brakes so you probably weren't stopping very hard...
Correct me if I'm wrong on the linked power brakes thing.. I have them on my 03 CLC.

Good Luck

John
 

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Why would anyone go to the expense of replacing the rotor - it's total overkill for MOST LT's since it isn't even CLOSE to being out of specs, and for MOST LT's drivers it will stay that way well over 100,000 miles. My first one was still good at 140K and only on the third set of pads. It just plain doesn't get that much wear and tear since it's only providing 10% of the stopping power.

With the rotor off to the side - and hanging from a piece of bailing wire - sand it on both sides with 200 grit Garnet paper stapled to a wood block - while the wheel is rotating in first gear on the center stand. (make sure someone is sitting on the bike just in case...) Garnet paper is the only type that is hard enough to cut the metal. Do not even think of using any other type of paper since you'll leave residue on the surface of the rotor. You are trying to remove ALL residue to have a spotlessly clean surface.

After sanding wipe down with Acetone.

Inspect the calipers for proper function, then pop on some new pads - I still think BMW's are the best but it doesn't really matter what brand. Bed the new brake pads in properly with 10 progressively harder and faster stops, making SURE not to allow the pads to contact the surface after each stop - in other words once you have stopped release the rear brake immediately. You want to get them HOT.

No more cowbell.
 

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64deville said:
Thanks for all the replies. This is my first BMW motorcycle and had not run into this with any other of my bikes.
From the way you first posed your question it seems that you do not have a problem with your rear brakes right now. So, ride on with confidence. If in the future you have other concerns, this forum is a great resource for answers, diagnoses and fixes. Keep in touch.
 
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