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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm going to do my first salve check and adj and throttle body sync. I thought this was going to be straight forward but the morer I read the more complicated it seems.
1st que. Once I adjust valves will that neccestate tbs?
2nd. How soon after I do valves should I do tbs. Can out wait a couple of weeks our should it be done the same day?

Probably sounds like dumb que. but I've been reading other post now I'm not sure if I should even try this
Thanks
 

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It's actually easy once you do it a couple of times.

Do the valves with a cold engine then warm the engine up with a short ride, a few miles will do the trick.
Then the TBS with a warm engine. The TBS is so simple and can make a big difference.

Once you get good at this you will be surprised at how little time the whole job takes.
 

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Twin: in response to your questions,

1. Yes, TBS comes after valve adjustment.

2. Not critical that it be done at the same time, you can wait a couple of weeks if you want. But as long as you are working on the bike, you may want to go ahead and do it to get the full benefit from your tinkering. Caveat is that the valves need to be done with the engine stone cold, and the TBS with the engine thoroughly warmed up.

It looks from your avatar that you have one of the DOHC engines. The good news is that you should not need to adjust the valves much once they get settled in.

Good luck.

JayJay
 

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Here is a link to some good photos of doing the valves with shim type rockers.
http://sanjosebmw.smugmug.com/Other/Tech-pictures/10976964_bHf66/1#!p=1&n=10
There are good threads here about how to do the TBS. It is easy on a new style RT.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
thanks for the help.

I have the dvd that walks you through the whole thing I'm just a little intimidated to get started once I start the job (well I guess once i get started I'll have to finish)
Thanks again
 

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For the TBS, you'll need to remove your tupperware. If you haven't done that before, make sure you add some time in for the removal and reinstall. Make sure to check for some slack in the throttle cables where they meet the throttle bodies. Also, while you have the tupperware off, check the condition of the FPC. I'm not sure how many miles are on your RT nor the conditions in which you ride, but you may want to inspect/replace your air filter too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I didn't mention before but I have2011 rt with 12,000 miles on it

I just saw at A&S BMW Motorcycles a valve shim kit for 12.00
" Kit consists of an oganizing box containing one each shim from 4.60mm through 5.70mm in .05mm increments."

Has anyone used that seems like a good idea if it's what I think it is but I thought the shims were more expensive then that??
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
the area that I'm not sure about is adjusting for slack
theJim Von Baden dvd that I have doestn't talk about adjusting for slack unless I'm missing something.

I went to his website and there he talks about 1mm of slack

does that apply to 2010+ rts?
 

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twincruise said:
the area that I'm not sure about is adjusting for slack
theJim Von Baden dvd that I have doestn't talk about adjusting for slack unless I'm missing something.

I went to his website and there he talks about 1mm of slack

does that apply to 2010+ rts?
Yes it applies to 2010 and later. The idea is to give slack so that the cables are not holding the TB open. When you sync the TB's the engine will be off idle and therefore the cables will have tension. When adjusting the balance, you will be lengthening or shortening the cable using the cable adjuster. You just have to make sure that after the TB's are balanced and the engine is idling that you still have some slack in both cables.

When I did this for the first time, I thought it was going to be difficult and complicated. It really isn't. The key for me was to take my time and be thoughtful of what I'm doing. I also used the JVB DVD and had no problems.

If you are really concerned about doing this, perhaps there is someone in your area that can walk you through it.

Cheers
Peter
 

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twincruise said:
I didn't mention before but I have2011 rt with 12,000 miles on it

I just saw at A&S BMW Motorcycles a valve shim kit for 12.00
" Kit consists of an oganizing box containing one each shim from 4.60mm through 5.70mm in .05mm increments."

Has anyone used that seems like a good idea if it's what I think it is but I thought the shims were more expensive then that??
I'm with you ... I don't understand it either. The semi-spheres are approx $6 each at the dealer and that kit includes about 22 of them. :confused:

I think they have a misprint on their website. Maybe their decimal point is off. I wonder if instead of the $12.69 price listed it should be $126.90?
 

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I too will be challenged by this procedure shortly...but we can do it.

I have faithfully checked the valves and the trend should place spec. values to close..possibly "good enough" without shims. I'll be some over on mileage before I check, plan on making it a .. put it away for the season project along with fluids while the plastics off.

Enjoy yourself and let us know how it goes..I love working on my own stuff and always had trouble with... :rulez:
 

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That shim kit is pretty cool. If you can stand to have your bike out of service you can just order up as needed of course. But I have a kit I put together and that 12 buck price is too good to be true unfortunately. BMW is missing the boat by not offering a factory kit. But then they want you to go to the dealer for work, which most do. Don't forget to get new clips for the shaft ends, don't reuse them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Iordered the shim kit and the confirmation email showed price at 12.00 I'll let you know when I get them.
I didnt know that I'll need clips, when I order them what are they called....valve clips??? I'm also going to order the morgan carb sync (it seems simpler than the twinmax
Is one better out easier than another?
Thanks for all the help
 

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IMHO you can reuse the clips. They have plenty of tension left in them but they're inexpensive so no big deal. Also, you can reuse the valve cover gaskets if you're careful with 'em.

So I'm assuming that these semi-spheres or hemispherical spheres in the A&S kit are non-BMW aftermarket items made in _ _ _ _ _ ?
 

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During my first check one of my inlets was tight. 0.127mm. I called my dealer to see if I can order one. He said he didn't know. I asked what they do when they need to switch one out for service. He said they take one from a bike that's sitting I the shop. This is the most ridiculous thing I have ever heard. Makes me think they've never needed to or actually changed one. I just assumed they had a selection laying around. At 13,000 miles my valves were all in spec. However when I place my next AS order I will definitely get the kit.

Joel
 

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twincruise said:
I didn't mention before but I have2011 rt with 12,000 miles on it

I just saw at A&S BMW Motorcycles a valve shim kit for 12.00
" Kit consists of an oganizing box containing one each shim from 4.60mm through 5.70mm in .05mm increments."

Has anyone used that seems like a good idea if it's what I think it is but I thought the shims were more expensive then that??
I believe that is for the shim box only. Like was mentioned, the shims are about $6.00 each. Bad wording from A&S website, but it should be fairly obvious you are not getting all the shims at that price.
 

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GRB60 said:
Just ordered the kit for $12.69. It shows that it is made by BMW, although Googling the part number doesn't bring up any link except the A&S one.
I think you're right about it being made by BMW. I can't figure why they sell individual ones for around $6 and can then sell about 22 of them for $12.69. Go figure. I ordered a set also.

Norm
 

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twincruise said:
Iordered the shim kit and the confirmation email showed price at 12.00 I'll let you know when I get them.
I didnt know that I'll need clips, when I order them what are they called....valve clips??? I'm also going to order the morgan carb sync (it seems simpler than the twinmax
Is one better out easier than another?
Thanks for all the help
IMHO, you can't go wrong with a TwinMax. Just be sure to put in a NEW battery, not the one that comes with it. Also - read and follow directions. I like to do it immediately following the valve adjustment, but I guess you don't have to. Takes about 10 min to do it right. I also like to use my GS911 and software, which tells me when the bike is warmed up, and will also lock down the idle - and release it (required for a good TBA according to some folks). Good info on the MOA "tech" forum about how to do this.

One other thought - Have you contacted your local BMW club or one of the regional forums in this site about a local Tech Day? That is BY FAR, other than having a buddy who is experienced in said procedures over for a tupperware party and a few brews, the best way to learn and do stuff on your bike.

-Brian
 

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MAX BMW also had the "Shim Kit" listed at $12.69. I ordered it this am and initially received an email that said "all items in stock". Just received a notice of a $12.69 refund with this note:
"Note from merchant
468 kit consists of an empty plastic box. There are no shims. The one in the store belongs to the service dept. and is NLA. We apologize for any inconvenience."
 
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