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Discussion Starter #1
new parts has arrived from Hermy's ( pre 20% discount). It was disheartening just how small a box they came in. First picture only. I put a Quarter on top for scale.

Now it is time to start my winter ( really, winter? ) maintenance. With temps in the mid to high 70's, I don't want to miss out on some early riding.

List of to-Do's
1. fix the oil leak rearing its ugly head on the boot of my FD. Probably the pinion seal as I didn't replace that when I did the crown bearing but did replace the output shaft bearing.

2. Install a Smartire TPMS on both sets of my wheels. Thank you JZ.

3. Install my set of Mr Injector cleaned set of injectors.

4. Install a new O2 sensor.

5. Install a new Slipstreamer S-122C Windscreen

6. Change all oil fluids.

7. If trans drain plug shows too much gunk, replace input shaft bearing and possibly all shaft end bearings.

If Trans comes off

8. If trans comes off, replace engine output shaft with rebuilt output shaft to minimize the " Box Of Rocks " noise I have that is far worse than any other LT I have listened to.

9. Clean up starter, replace seal, bearing, o-rings and examine brushes. Replace if necessary. Missed doing this service when I did my clutch. No, it is not the 3 brush LT plate but the rest of the parts fit the LT starter.

10. Rebuild water/oil pump while I have it off.

11. Replace timing chain guide kit. Probably doesn't need it at 60K M but Hey.


We will see how far I get into this list and what I might save for next winter or as required.
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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You have your work cut out for you that's for sure, enjoy.
 
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You have your work cut out for you that's for sure, enjoy.
I am glad I like doing this kind of stuff, ( at least for now) One day I actually plan on riding this thing somewhere. >:)
 
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I am glad I like doing this kind of stuff, ( at least for now) One day I actually plan on riding this thing somewhere. >:)
Every time I ride mine somewhere ... I get to work on it again. It is a vicious cycle!
 

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Every time I ride mine somewhere ... I get to work on it again. It is a vicious cycle!
Well, soon I will run out of all these things I hear other bikes having issues with and none would have actually failed on mine. I guess I am getting it out of the way early so I can ride later. :wink:
 

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Well, soon I will run out of all these things I hear other bikes having issues with and none would have actually failed on mine. I guess I am getting it out of the way early so I can ride later. :wink:
The LT has an infinite supply of things to fail. >:)
 
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The LT has an infinite supply of things to fail. >:)
At 17 years+, I think you are right. They are like Pokemon. You got to get them all. >:)
 

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My 2005 K1200LT had a precautionary final drive reshim/rebuild and that has been it for 26000 miles - except for oil, filters, and brake fluid flushes.
 

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My 2005 K1200LT had a precautionary final drive reshim/rebuild and that has been it for 26000 miles - except for oil, filters, and brake fluid flushes.
I did my FD crown bearing almost 10K miles ago but didn't do the pinion seal. I now have oil seeping from the FD boot so I hope it is that seal and not the trans output shaft which I did replace when I did my clutch. I should have done both but was much more of a newbe and didn't know what I know now. I just had a cover destroyed by a friend to make a tool to do the shim measurements and will be checking it when I do the pinion seal assuming that is the leak. Not as fancy as some I have seen on this forum but it should do the job. You can compare the official BMW tool below with what I asked my friend to do. This should be on Pintrest.


Nailed it! >:)
 

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Got it up on the lift to start my servicing. First issue was the FD leak at the boot. Got the FD off and had a closer look. I have BMW syn in the gear box and royal purple in the FD. The oil was purple so it came from the FD for sure so leaking around the pinion seal. I bolted it up to my pinion locking device and put the 36mm socket on with Big Bertha torque wrench and started to push to loosen and there was no resistance. I thought I must not have the socket on the nut so I took it off the wrench and made sure it fit by hand again and I had the right socket. As it turns out, the pinion nut was finger loose and that was the source of the leak. I decided to take it all the way apart and inspect to make sure there was no damage from the pinion being loose. Aparently someone had been in there before I got it and didn't properly tighten that nut. I know it wasn't me as I didn't have a 36mm socket when I did the crown bearing so I couldn't even have checked it then no less removed it. After a quick chat with Dave on what type of damage I might expect and need to specifically look for, I have decided it can go back together as is with a new pinion seal and a repair of the creeping pinion race. I may also do the taper bearing as I have one already and will be doing the shim measurements with my new tool as I put it back together. I didn't see any damage so feel lucky I caught it soon enough.
 

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Today's efforts were modest. Cleaned all the grease off and ground down my bearing separator so it would fit in the space between the needle bearing race and the pinion so I could remove the race and then fully reinstall it with some loctite so hopefully it won't creep any more.

Nothing like taking a perfectly good tool and taking a grinder to it >:)

Had to do the same with my 2 jaw puller. The other end of the jaws were already ground down to be able to fit under and pull the crown bearing off so why not make the remaining other side good for the taper bearing. Had to grind it out so the jaws would reach far enough in to hit the inner race and not just catch on the cage. Worked well and the new taper bearing is seated with loctite curing. The speed sensor ring was not at all loose so I left it alone. Hope that doesn't come back to bite me later.
 

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One of my pivot bearings is starting to get a little notchy so I am joining Kent and John and going to install the Ei Paralever Bushing Kit from Ted's beamershop. Not paying $97 each for bearings that should cost $10. I hope this is a more permanent solution.

BeemerShop Ei Paralever Bushing Kit R1100S/ R1150 ALL/ K1200RS/LT/GT

Add another $129 to the spring maintenance. Still cheaper than the bearings.
 

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One of my pivot bearings is starting to get a little notchy so I am joining Kent and John and going to install the Ei Paralever Bushing Kit from Ted's beamershop. Not paying $97 each for bearings that should cost $10. I hope this is a more permanent solution.

BeemerShop Ei Paralever Bushing Kit R1100S/ R1150 ALL/ K1200RS/LT/GT

Add another $129 to the spring maintenance. Still cheaper than the bearings.
I am curious to hear some reports of how these hold up in the field. I don't recall any "in use" reports thus far.

I am currently using the tapered bronze bushings that I bought from RCRG. They have held up well thus far. The are a little messy to install as you need to put some Loctite on them to ensure they don't rotate on the aluminum pin.
 

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I am curious to hear some reports of how these hold up in the field. I don't recall any "in use" reports thus far.

I am currently using the tapered bronze bushings that I bought from RCRG. They have held up well thus far. The are a little messy to install as you need to put some Loctite on them to ensure they don't rotate on the aluminum pin.
I am not sure anyone has had these new ones in long enough to know how they will hold up. Kirk and John are the only ones I remember having installed them so far but others had expressed interest including me. Even if they only last as long as the needle bearings, they are a less expensive option so more desirable on that front at least. They are externally lubricatable but from what I remember, there are no installation instructions or even suggestions on how often to give them a squirt. I guess we will have to figure that out as we go.
 

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I have not installed mine yet as I now have the 2.82 drive and a spare 2.62 drive and I can't swap them out easily with those pivots installed. Guess I could pack the old pivots with the spare drive in case I need to change it on a trip.
 
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Worked on the taper bearing race and measuring tonight. Again, I had to take a grinder to a perfectly good tool to make it do what I wanted. The arms on my pilot bearing puller did not extend in quite far enough before impacting the case and would not grab the lip of the bearing race so I modified it to work along with some heat and the race came out very easily and I didn't burn my fingers. I heated up the case again to a little above 200F, put some loctite on the outer race and it literally fell into the hole. I had prepared the old race from my purchased junk FD by again, grinding the outer surface down so it would fit with no resistance into the race hole so I could use it as a driver but it was not necessary. I did use it to tap lightly on the new race to make sure there was no loctite holding it up from being fully seated.

I moved on to measuring per the Clymer manual with my new tool and a gauge block and was very pleased that I came up with the same shim pack I was running previously having done it by the Dman method per CharlieVT's Video which meant the new taper bearing and race were the same as the ones I removed, as it should be and nothing had spun or worn abnormally. Tomorrow I will press in the new pinion seal and prepare for reassembly but I still have to wait till my new pivot bushing kit arrives to finish my FD and move on. I bought a set of Pivot bearings on Ebay pretty cheap, like $30 each, new in the bag but I put them in my spare FD. Like you John, I am not pulling them out to put them on my primary FD. They will just have to stay there along with the old pivot pins in case I need to use it.
 

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