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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Anyone else have this experience? This has happened about 10 or 12 times.
As I am slowing down to turn or stop, I pull the clutch in to downshift and the motor stumbles and dies. It will crank but not start until I turn the key off, then back on again. Two trips to the dealer and they can't find anything wrong. The only time it has happened I had less than a quarter tank of fuel. Both Second Wind and Max BMW said that should not cause the problem.
The repair honcho at Second Wind advised me not to use Shell gasoline, which I had been using most of the time. I won't be riding for a few more weeks so I haven't really tried out this theory yet.

?????


Mick
 

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Mick, what year is your bike? I ask because the 2010 models came out with this feature and a software up grade was needed. My bike stalled about every third (or so) time I came to a stop. Then a second stall feature built in allowed the engine to quite underway with low load, the reluctor for the cam position sensor had a keyway cut incorrectly. This too was replaced as needed. Both items were completely taken care of by BMW.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
beech said:
Mick, what year is your bike? I ask because the 2010 models came out with this feature and a software up grade was needed. My bike stalled about every third (or so) time I came to a stop. Then a second stall feature built in allowed the engine to quite underway with low load, the reluctor for the cam position sensor had a keyway cut incorrectly. This too was replaced as needed. Both items were completely taken care of by BMW.

This is a 2007 RT. From the lack of response I guess this is not a common problem. 2 dealers could not figure it out.I am guessing the 2010 problem is not associated with the 2007. I guess no one else had been advised by a dealer, to stay away from Shell.

Mick
 

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I am sure things are different now, in 1972 it said right in the owners manual not to use Shell oil products. Moving on, I suggest you get some Techron or Sea Foam and dose your gas to clean up things. A cheap starting point. Does your bike have a fuel filter, some models around there did not. If so how old is it. Even a new filter will be trashed by gas with water in it. Some places to start. good luck
 

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I'll be the contrarian here.

I've heard this "Stay away from Shell" off and on over the years, mostly anecdotal ("my brother's girlfriend's cousin's husband knows a mechanic who said that ...") , and have yet to figure out why. Perhaps in the 70's and before when gasoline was formulated considerably differently than it is now, and manufacturers really tried to set themselves apart (I remember Chevron with the miracle additive "Ethyl" - short for tetraethyl lead!), but things have really changed in the last 40 years. MTBE as an oxygenating additive has come and gone. I don't even know if you can buy leaded fuel anymore. We now have ethanol blends, regional blends, seasonal blends, E5, E10, E85 - getting to be really confusing. I'm not convinced that the manufacturer, as long as it's a major, is all that important. I happen to run Shell almost exclusively in all my vehicles because it's widely available in my area and they give me a pretty good rebate on my credit card. I've never had a problem I could trace to the fuel. Probably a lousy way to choose a gasoline but works for me.

But water can be a problem, even more so now with ethanol (which absorbs water). One dealer in my area opened up a new station and had his gasoline delivered prematurely. It sat undisturbed in the ground for several months and absorbed so much water that the first 100 cars or so to buy fuel there only made it a couple of blocks before they crapped out. If you do have water it will separate low in the tank, which makes it more likely to be picked up by the fuel pump. Stabilizer might help, so would draining and starting over from a new supplier.

OK, put soap box away.

JayJay
 

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Pitching in some Techron or similar is certainly an OK starting point. If the problem continues, then you've probably got some sort of electrical issue.

One thing to do is to look at any and all codes that might have been thrown and read by the dealership computer or a GS-911. Some of the codes are innocuous (eg low voltage codes no longer present, etc) but can still be a tipoff to the cause. Such codes might get overlooked as a possible cause by some techs- so find out any and all codes the bike shows. (There are of course ways for your problem to happen where no relevant codes will be thrown)

I don't subscribe to the bad brands of gas theory. Sure, some gas is better than others but your bike will run fine on anything not contaminated with water or dirt if its in good shape. A "rule of thumb" known by older mechanics is almost all problems thought to be fuel related will turn out to be electrical when you finally run them down. Might be time to brush up on how your sensor-controlled fuel injection system and ignition systems work. (We don't have many Shell stations around me and where they are common I often avoid them because their fume recovery systems make it annoying to fill a motorcycle. Has nothing to do with the fuel quality, though)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the information. This problem is so intermittent that I can go for weeks and not have it happen again. My warranty is up next month and I may bring it in one more time to get it checked. Hopefully it will never rear it's head again.
Checking all the computer/electrical components on this bike is way beyond my pay grade, I have to bring it to the techs at the dealer.


Soap box time: I hate this so called "clean" gas with ethanol in it. It ruined the Dunstall fiberglass tank I have on my '75 Norton. I am in the process of making a new one with ethanol resistant resins, and I will coat the inside too. Big $$$ to get my paint job back tho. But then, you have to pay to play.

Mick
 

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I just got mine back from the Dealer yesterday, rode it (08RT) for about 40 miles and all seems to be fine,,,, The bike would stall while stopping and downshifting, would start right up with no key on and off senario, just pushing on the starter button did it, it then shuttered which was cleared on reving it up... this happened several timea at the END of my ride... the Dealer found a restriction in one of the fuel tank vent lines they feel was the issue... one other item was that the fuel "miles left to empty" indicator after fill up took over 40 miles to completly register its "highest" number... I am not a mechanic... bike runs fine now and am waiting for the heavy winds here in Colorado to subside for some longer rides.... fortunatly she is still under warranty.... hope this helps and good luck...
 

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Mick, I still have my money on intermittent fuel delivery. It could easily be that electronic fuel controller on top of the pump cap/tank connection. Mention it to your dealer.
 

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Is it just right turns and when stopping? I ask this because you mentioned only when the fuel was 1/4 or lower. I have run into a cracked fuel pick up that sucked vapor when the fuel level was low, not on an RT. It's just a WAG and if all else fails you might want to pull the pump and take a peek.
 
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