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Discussion Starter #1
My drive went TU recently leaving me baking in the Western Washington sun..(Yay, Sun!!) I got the bike to a safe place, removed the drive, took it home, and proceeded to dismantle it to view the destruction....Problem occurred when I tried to remove the brake rotor...I had consulted my clymers first, and it said to heat the fastener to 250 degrees with a heat gun....I don't have a thermometer but I figured 250 was a bunch. I heated the screw, and tried to turn it...no joy..I heated it again, still no joy, got out the torch, heated the crap out of it, got 1 turn before it quit turning, then I ended up stripping the hex opening on the screw...crap! I tried to get the other screw out, a little heat, a little torq, pop, unscrewed just like it should...I have now drilled out the head on the other one, and tried to heat it, use a vise grip, prayed over it using terminology found in devil worship!!! lol! No joy, What is holding it? I could see that the other screw had some type of loctite on it, and assumed the heating process was to loosen or soften the loctite. I guess I'll have to take it to a machine shop to get it removed. Any thoughts appreciated...
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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You can just leave it alone as the only reason those are there is to hold the rotor on when you remove the wheel. One is sufficient. With the wheel on you have five big bolts holding the rotor.
 

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My drive went TU recently leaving me baking in the Western Washington sun..(Yay, Sun!!) I got the bike to a safe place, removed the drive, took it home, and proceeded to dismantle it to view the destruction....Problem occurred when I tried to remove the brake rotor...I had consulted my clymers first, and it said to heat the fastener to 250 degrees with a heat gun....I don't have a thermometer but I figured 250 was a bunch. I heated the screw, and tried to turn it...no joy..I heated it again, still no joy, got out the torch, heated the crap out of it, got 1 turn before it quit turning, then I ended up stripping the hex opening on the screw...crap! I tried to get the other screw out, a little heat, a little torq, pop, unscrewed just like it should...I have now drilled out the head on the other one, and tried to heat it, use a vise grip, prayed over it using terminology found in devil worship!!! lol! No joy, What is holding it? I could see that the other screw had some type of loctite on it, and assumed the heating process was to loosen or soften the loctite. I guess I'll have to take it to a machine shop to get it removed. Any thoughts appreciated...
Go with JZ's suggestion. Or if you have to have it out place a nut over the offending remnant and weld the nut to the stub, let it cool and back it out.

Robert
 

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Enjoy The Ride
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3,989 Posts
I have removed dozens of those screws & have never used any heat. I just use slow steady pressure with a T-Handle & a good Snap-On socket. I remove 4 of them last Sunday.
 

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Miles of Smiles
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Bit late now I guess, but I've seen that after heating up the screw to soften the locktite next spray some coolant spray just on the head.
That might shrink the screw a bit too.
 

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The countersunk head screws are crap quality, easy to have the allen key slip in the hex. If you are insistent on replaceing them, go for Unbarako brand, grade 10.9 or similar. Install using some anti-sieze compound rather than Loctite. As JZ stated though, they really arent necessary, the wheel clamps the disc rotor in place.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Sounds good to me, I know the rotors on most cars these days don't even have a screw or bolt in them, just the wheel lugs to hold them on, which does a pretty good job.
Thanks guys!
 
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