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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I fitted the present rear Metzeler 7000 km's ago. Approximately 50% of our riding is done 2 up. I run 48 psi in the rear when 2 up, 46 psi solo. Checking the tyre for damage etc last night and I noticed there are some cracks in the carcass, in the bottoms of some of the tread grooves. The longest is about 20 mm (3/4"), shortest being about 10 mm, total number 6 at present, randomly dispersed around the tyre. :mad: This same thing occurred some years ago with a new rear tyre on my K100RT, that tyre was a Bridgestone Battlax BT045, so at that time I switched to a Michelin Lasertec and no more issues. I'm about to travel across the continent on this tyre, though I'm extremely disappointed to have discovered these cracks. Anyone have "the good oil" on possible reasons ? I will not be re-fitting a Metzeler based on this, I will revert to the (original fitment) Bridgestone BT020 REINF.
 

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I have had a few Metzelers delevop cracks as well but I never worried about them as they were usually at the end life (for me anyway) of 7-8,000 miles. I have only seen one case where a "chunk" came off a tire (not mine). I am thinking of trying a Bridgi rear next time as well - have run 11 rear Metz and 6 fronts so I am ready to try some thing else.
 

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Never heard of this happening before. Coming from the VTX community, the 880 is the tire of choice. I've got 880's on my LT, and reading your post, i had to take a look at mine. Granted, I dont know how old they are because they were on the bike when I purchased, they look good.
 

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Keep in mind that the rubber on the outside of your tire is relatively cosmetic. While the tread does provide traction it is not part of the strength of the tire. The sidewall rubber protects the tire cords from sunlight and ozone. The steel belts and the tire cords in the carcass is where the strength lies. So unless you can see belts or cords through the crack, there's likely not much to worry about. Of course this doesn't mean that what you see isn't the beginning of a delamination, but I doubt it. Personally I would probably fill the offending cracks with RTV silicone and keep an eye on them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the comments guys, yes Dean, my plan is to fill the cracks tonight using Tip-Top SC4000, an industial conveyor belt splicing adhesive (2 pack mix), excellent product in my experience. I cannot see any cords but I'll be looking more closely this evening. very disappointing though, makes the rear tyre something of a focus, which I would prefer it not to be on a long trip.
 

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Hey Dennis, have you tried using something like Slime in the tyres? I've been using it (or similar) for the past 4-5 years and am very happy with the added piece of mind it gives in case of punctures or such.
 

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K100Dennis said:
..I noticed there are some cracks in the carcass, in the bottoms of some of the tread grooves.
Are they big enough to show in a picture? I've been using ME880s since my first LT in 03 and never noticed this. I'd like to know what to look for.

Greg
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Definitely large enough to photograph, I'll get some pics tonight (tripod & macro). Is there an upload file size restriction on the forum ? I have some software at work to reduce the file size if required. Chris, I had a mate who put the slime product in a tyre once, did all the bizzo like rode up the raod at 100 kmh for 50 k's etc. left it overnight and it turned to a solid ball that,........ wait for it,.............. caused his Harley to vibrate :histerica
 

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Dennis, open a free Photobucket (or similar) account and use that to store the pics. Just post the link to the forum. http://photobucket.com/
Images automagically get resized when uploaded.

Funny story about the Slime and the Harley... bet its not the first slimy Harley story ever told... :rolleyes:
When i recently swapped out my front Metz (over 30,000km's on it) the slime was nicely spread over the entire inner surface, and only after sitting for a little while that a small amount pooled at the bottom. When in motion on the bike that would have spread out quite quickly, so who knows what Mr Harley did.. maybe added some sawdust to quieten the vibrations. :histerica Oh well, each to their religious beliefs... :D
 

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Hi all. I would not recommend to put any slime or other stuff inside nor smear anything outside on the tire. If you wont to learn to fly than go ahead.
Silicon on the outside of a tire can be very dangerous.
Forget about your small cracks, how old is this tire you can see this on the stamp. In quite hot regions can this happen after a period of time. Is normally to see on an old tire over the Years.
I would not say dont worry, keep an eye on it but dont smear anything in to this cracks.
An this is the same for Metzis, BT or other tires.

Manfred
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks Manfred and others for opinions and experiences. I have just this evening filled the small cracks with the Rema TipTop SC4000 compound. It is not a silicon product, but a commercial rubber belting adhesive designed for bonding rubber to rubber and rubber to steel. It has incredibly strong bond strength but is fully flexible. The reason I filled the cracks was to prevent ingress of abrasives and water as it is not far in to the cords. Sa others have suggested, I will be watching the tyre daily on my 28 day trip. A new Bridgestone will ensue. We'll see how that goes.
 

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Is it the REIN? Had one on mine that was not, it developed some small cracks and then the rubber started separating from the carcass. Should be under Metzler Tire Failure. Mine was simply the wrong tire.
 

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GHOSTRACER said:
...Granted, I dont know how old they are because they were on the bike when I purchased, they look good.
If you look on the sidewall, find the DOT code and read the last 4 digits. That will show you how old the tire is in wwyy format, where ww equals week number (1-52) of the yy (2-digit year). At least that will tell you how old they are, milage may be a little more subjective but tread depth should give you a rough estimate of that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Just to clarrify - Yes it is the REINF spec, yes it is the correct tyre. I cannot remember the tyre build date (at work at present), but I know it is not an old stock tyre. It has been on for 9 months and has done 7000 km's. Nothing untoward has been done with the tyre other than to run 2-up with 48 psi on good roads and never on any gravel. I'll watch it till I get across to Perth, WA, then replace it with a new Battlax 020.
 

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mreuter said:
Hi all. I would not recommend to put any slime or other stuff inside <nor smear anything outside on> the tire.
Hi Manfred... nothing on the outside of the tyre (apart from the way Dennis has described) I totally concur with... but why recommend not using "Slime" or one of the many other tyre/tire sealant products? Is this based on experience or just an opinion?
Reason I ask is I've been using a tyre sealant in both front & rear for the last 50,000 or more km's (probably 4-5 years) and my experience is that it has helped prolong the life of the tyre, reduced air-loss, and probably saved me some grief having found a couple of screws embedded in tyres but no air-loss so I've been able to continue to ride safely.

cheers
 

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Dennis I would highly recommend you take the tire back to the dealer where you bought it and have them send it back to Metzeler, or if you got it from an internet sight, call Metzeler customer service, explain what happened and they will probably pay the postage to take a look at it and see what went wrong. We have had TJ Tennent speak at a couple of CCR's. At the time he was the Engineering Product Manager of Motorcycles for Bridgestone Tires. He stated that all the tire companies want to know if something goes wrong with their product and if you get the tire to them they will be able to tell you what happened, and probably send you a replacement tire.
 

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Tire age is as important as tread wear. You can determine the age of any tire sold in USA by looking at the DOT stamp molded in the sidewall. The age is a 4-digit number. The first two numbers are the week in which the tire was molded. The second is the year. Just beyond the DOT stamp in a little oval indent, my front says 4811 meaning it was produced in the last week of November, 2011. My brand new rear says 5010--2 1/2 years old when I bought it. Tire dealers often ship tires to internet discounters when they are approaching the end of their shelf life. Always ask what is the tire's age before buying on the internet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks for the advice Tim, I called the Australian Metzeler Importer yesterday (Friday here), after looking up their website. My word I got an original answer from the chap after I described the problem to him, to quote - "oh,.... I've never heard of that happening before". I am over people behaving this way, so I won't place my response to him here on the forum. The tyre was manufactured on week 12 of 2011, I purchased it around week 42 of 2011, so the tyre was not old when I bought it. This exact same type of problem occurred on a Bridgestone Battlax BT45 rear on my K100, though the splits were quite a bit longer. A replacement tyre was granted that time. Looks like it's back to the Bridgestone for the rear, though I don't like the BT020 fronts as they tend to feather up and scallop very easily and become noisy from there.
 

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My front is showing a lot of small cracks in the bottoms of the grooves. M880 with about 16k miles on it. Right at the end of its service life as the wear bars are beginning to show. Be mounting a new one sometime in late September.
 

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Cris asked about slime other sealants and my opinion.
Sure I recommend slime and all this other stuff but not as you prescribe. If you loose air and you have to refill every week then is something wrong. Valve, Tire or even Rim. But it is not right to use slime to help that.
Slime and others should be used if you have a flat somewhere out on the road to help you self.
Sealant hangs up on your rim and you cant get it off or it is not easy to do. So at the next tire change you have to put more counter weight on the rim to get a even Balance.
And if you use it the wrong way, if you dont move the bike that you get a even layer you will have a constant wobbling.
So all this sealent stuff is ok as long you use it for his purpose. Is not made for a long run.

Manfred
 
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