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Discussion Starter #1
Have 47K on bike and am planning on doing the plugs, air & fuel filters, oil & filter, and add jack oil in rear shock adjuster. Probably clean components under seat and rear pan. Anyone have any favorite spark plug suggestion and is there anything else I might want to do while I'm in there?
 

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Heck, do the rest of the fluids...brakes,transmission,final drive.. And if you have a couple hours check the valves. :D
 

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RonHolly said:
Have 47K on bike and am planning on doing the plugs, air & fuel filters, oil & filter, and add jack oil in rear shock adjuster. Probably clean components under seat and rear pan. Anyone have any favorite spark plug suggestion and is there anything else I might want to do while I'm in there?
For sparkies, I try to find either Bosch XR7 LDC or NGK DCPR7EIX (iridium). Been happy with both.
Just in case you need torque info:
Cylinder head cover is 9Nm
Sparkplugs are 20Nm
Shield is 5Nm
 

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I just installed a set of Bosch XR7LDC's an hour ago, as I'm doing the same thing right now that you are planning to do. I decided to leave the valves alone, as the bike has around 22,000 miles on it, and the rear spring pre-load looks fine as is. If you don't have a torque wrench available to tighten the plugs, the manual says to finger tighten and then do a quarter turn. I was surprised at how "loose" they were before I read the manual. When you do the fuel filter, make sure you have an oil filter wrench (as shown in one of the videos) that opens up more than 4.5 inches, as mine was about a half inch too small and I have to look for one that fits the huge fuel pump cap. I'd also check the water hoses and radiator cap, since you'll have it apart and they're much easier to see from on top. If you don't have any driving/fog lights on and plan to add them in the near future, now is the time to also tackle that. Have fun! :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'll bet that my bike has never been touched, maintenance wise, by the previous owner. I bought the bike with 39K on it. Yes the hydraulics is a very good idea. I just bought a HF "Brake Bleeder Vac Pump" to do the clutch and brakes. I did the FD and tranny about 8K miles ago last year. I'm also thinking about doing the heat sensor mod to enhance warm weather performance. (Stays hot in Florida.) I just put a new Cee Bailey reverse contour windshield on a couple days ago and really like it over the OEM one.
 

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RonHolly said:
I just bought a HF "Brake Bleeder Vac Pump" to do the clutch and brakes. .
I did the same thing, but found it pretty much useless. JohnZ has a step by step instructions on here somewhere (I think in the Hall of Wisdom) that works flawlessly. I printed it out and keep it in a notebook in my garage and follow it step by step everytime I change the fluids.
 

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I have 3 K&N oil filters (KN-163 ) painted black they have a 7/8 nut on bottom to use a socket on to in stall or take out ,will the facted that they have paint on them and would be in a wet sump remove the paint and hurt my bike ?, Can i use or buy unpainted filter? Thanks :wave
 

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@ Molan:

Don't know about black versions, but both of my KN-163s are silver. Unless they changed colors within the last several months, I would assume yours are pretty old versions if they're still in the original sealed packaging. :cool:
 

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If you don't have good quick disconnects, with extra O-rings Ron consider adding them to your list. Whenevr I take mine apart I loose the O-ring.

If your shocks are going to need replacement soon?

How is the oil level window?

most recent throttle cables?

Bob
 

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I'd check the distribution hose for the crankcase ventilation. I found mine was shat when I did the teardown for filters and cables. I wasn't planning on checking valves either but after waiting for parts I decided why not. Glad I did, two intake and three exhaust out of specs with two more at minimum. 33k on 2000. It doesn't take much to check them.
 

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Lube the shifter balls! makes a huge difference in shifting ease.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Some great tips guys! I was finally able to carve out a work area on my back yard patio to start my major maintenance plans. Ordered plugs and fuel filter and should be here Tuesday. So anytime after that I hope to start this project. Started looking at some of the tupperware around the guage panel and found some cracks. Guess a little epoxy on the back side of them will fix it. Bought some 3M automotive vinyl I plan on installing on the upper tupper and handle bar covers. Someone painted the upper tupper before I bought it. If the 3M doesn't work out I'll try hydro-printing or painting. I went with the Bosch XR7 LDC plugs.





 

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Strap wrench for the fuel pump nut.

ABS module funnel from Beemer Boneyard, the vac pump is next to useless.

If you don't have a good parts source, Denise at Bentonville BMW.
Probably knows more about the ride than most riders.
 

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In just the last couple of months there have been a flurry of "running hot" issues - me included. Maybe you can take a peek at your radiators while you can see them and get the fins cleaned out. Since doing mine (with new cap and thermostat), my temp is rock solid just below half. One less thing for me to worry about.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
fpmlt said:
In just the last couple of months there have been a flurry of "running hot" issues - me included. Maybe you can take a peek at your radiators while you can see them and get the fins cleaned out. Since doing mine (with new cap and thermostat), my temp is rock solid just below half. One less thing for me to worry about.
Did you change the fluid while you were there?
 

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RonHolly said:
Did you change the fluid while you were there?
OH YEAH! I drained the system and removed both radiators for cleaning. I soaked them both to soften up 90,000 miles worth of crusty old bugs, then sat for about 2 hours straightening out the bent fins (really good therapy) .
You could do a search on radiator guards. Couple of guys built their own and show you how to do it.
Can't see putting anything back in once drained. I think the fluid I replaced was 2 years old at most.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
fpmlt said:
OH YEAH! I drained the system and removed both radiators for cleaning. I soaked them both to soften up 90,000 miles worth of crusty old bugs, then sat for about 2 hours straightening out the bent fins (really good therapy) .
You could do a search on radiator guards. Couple of guys built their own and show you how to do it.
Can't see putting anything back in once drained. I think the fluid I replaced was 2 years old at most.
I've had my LT for a year and I'm thinking the fluid is probably 11 year old! My plugs and fuel filter came today and I think I'll order new radiator cap and fuel filter hoses. Gonna give some real serious thought about doing the cooling system also. If the weather will give me a break I guess I could at least start. It's just so blasted hot here in Tampa right now!
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Hoodcounty said:
Strap wrench for the fuel pump nut.

ABS module funnel from Beemer Boneyard, the vac pump is next to useless.

If you don't have a good parts source, Denise at Bentonville BMW.
Probably knows more about the ride than most riders.
Is it necessary to remove the large nut just to replace the fuel filter?? ABS module funnel?? Think I need to do some reading on that one. Thought of something else to do. Drill a weep hole.

Starting to look like this "little" project is going to take some "big" time to complete!

:bmw:
 
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