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Discussion Starter #1
Last May I started on changing the main seal on my 2006 LT. I work a lot so don't get much time to work on it but I took this week off to finish it.
I got it all back together and put fresh engine oil Wednesday, I was waiting for my new oxygen sensor to come in and it arrived yesterday.
I was installing it late last night and noticed oil dripping from clutch housing. I guess I messed something up, must not of got main seal in properly..ugh so disappointed I'm ready to push my LT off a cliff. ...
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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You did replace the 19x4 o-ring as well on the output shaft I hope. As long as that mail seal was flush with the rear face it should have been OK. I certainly understand your frustration. That seal is driven in wet but the internal lip is dry. If it was installed wet it may seep awhile before it seals up good. You will need to run the engine to be sure. Worth a shot.
 

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Last May I started on changing the main seal on my 2006 LT. I work a lot so don't get much time to work on it but I took this week off to finish it.
I got it all back together and put fresh engine oil Wednesday, I was waiting for my new oxygen sensor to come in and it arrived yesterday.
I was installing it late last night and noticed oil dripping from clutch housing. I guess I messed something up, must not of got main seal in properly..ugh so disappointed I'm ready to push my LT off a cliff. ...
I think most of us who work on our LTs have had at least one “cliff” moment. I have had several. John makes a good point about the main seal being installed dry. That is the advice with most teflon seal as they seal best when a thin layer of teflon can be transferred from the seal to the dry shaft at first start. If installed with an oiled lip, they are known to seep for a long time and sometimes forever. Sort of like getting a newly rebuilt engine too hot and glazing the bore.

I would think the more likely source of the leak might be the o-ring. Did you install a new one and install it per the service manual? Most of us have used an aftermarket o-ring made of viton.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
No I got my Oring from Bmw I didn't know about the Viton till after I did it. I did lubricate seal before installing though.
 

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No I got my Oring from Bmw I didn't know about the Viton till after I did it. I did lubricate seal before installing though.
Where did you get your rear main seal from? No profile information letting us know where you are. Which picture did it look like? Want to make sure you got a pre-formed seal and not the old non formed ones.
 

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No I got my Oring from Bmw I didn't know about the Viton till after I did it. I did lubricate seal before installing though.
If you lubed the lip of the main seal, that may be why you have seepage. Maybe it will run in as John said. Worth a try before tearing it down again.
 

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No I got my Oring from Bmw I didn't know about the Viton till after I did it. I did lubricate seal before installing though.
The stock o-ring is OK it will just get hard sooner and leak. The outer surface of the rear main should be oiled lightly as it is rubber but the inner lip is teflon and should be dry when you insert the clutch housing. Hope it does stop seeping for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I appreciate the comments, I got seal from BMW here in KC. I think seal was tapered, I will finish putting it together so I can start it and see if leak stops. I never thought of that but not very optimistic at this point. Start back to work tomorrow and had to replace daughter's transmission seal today so not sure when I'll get her running.
 

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There is one thing that many people forget to look at when doing seal replacements and that is the condition of the surface that a seal runs on. Quite often the seal will wear a groove in the shaft that it runs on thereby making the new seal far less effective than it should be. If you ever find this when you inspect the shaft you will probably think that the shaft will need to be replaced as well. Ideally yes that is true but there is a product called Speedy Sleave which is a very thin tube of metal that is fitted over the area where the wear on the shaft is. The seal of course is then a tighter fit but is a very effective and cheap way of fixing that leak. I have used this product many times over the years on various types of machinery gearboxes that I work on.
I highly recommend that if you need to go back in there to check the seal surface of the shaft itself.
 

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Well I finally got her torn down again and this is what I found on new seal I replaced. I have no idea how the seal got damaged this bad on installing it but now I know why it was leaking. Ugh
You have to be careful when sliding the clutch housing into the seal. It also looks like the new seal you installed may be set a little too deep? Is it flush with the housing or is it recessed some? The proper tool will not allow it to be driven past the housing surface. My feeling is that the clutch housing caught the seal lip when being inserted and tore the seal apart. When you get the new seal, make sure it slides over the clutch housing with both off the bike. Leave it on the housing until you are ready to install it. Drive the seal only till it is flush with the engine housing and then work the clutch housing in.

The old style seals were flat and had to be pre-molded by hand to curve the lip before installing or they would tear apart. The new pre-molded lip seals are supposed to not require any pre-molding but making sure it fits over the clutch housing will also help to keep it from shredding on install. Yours is the first of the new seals I have heard of having this issue.
 

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You have to be careful when sliding the clutch housing into the seal. It also looks like the new seal you installed may be set a little too deep? Is it flush with the housing or is it recessed some? The proper tool will not allow it to be driven past the housing surface. My feeling is that the clutch housing caught the seal lip when being inserted and tore the seal apart. When you get the new seal, make sure it slides over the clutch housing with both off the bike. Leave it on the housing until you are ready to install it. Drive the seal only till it is flush with the engine housing and then work the clutch housing in.

The old style seals were flat and had to be pre-molded by hand to curve the lip before installing or they would tear apart. The new pre-molded lip seals are supposed to not require any pre-molding but making sure it fits over the clutch housing will also help to keep it from shredding on install. Yours is the first of the new seals I have heard of having this issue.
And to add to Gordon’s recommendation, the teflon seals are to be installed dry. This seems odd as very other seal known to man should be oiled before sliding over the shaft, but my understanding is that the teflon seals work by transferring a thin layer off teflon from the seal to the shaft during the initial operation before the oil gets to it. If you oil the shaft or seal during installation, this prevents the teflon transfer and shortens the life of the seal.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I'll try it again as soon as I get a new seal and I want to order one of those better orings. And this time I'm definitely putting oil back in the engine before I put clutch and everything back on too see if it leaks.
Thanks I appreciate all the information cause I'm eventually going to get this baby running again. It's become challenge that I will not give in and take it some where to get fixed its personal now..My wife and daughters think I'll never get her running again...ha I got this
 

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I'll try it again as soon as I get a new seal and I want to order one of those better orings. And this time I'm definitely putting oil back in the engine before I put clutch and everything back on too see if it leaks.
Thanks I appreciate all the information cause I'm eventually going to get this baby running again. It's become challenge that I will not give in and take it some where to get fixed its personal now..My wife and daughters think I'll never get her running again...ha I got this
Where do you live? If you are in the US, send me a PM with your address and I will send you one of those Viton O-rings no charge. You have 19 posts so you should be able to send a PM now.
 

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Gordon is correct though the original seal in the photo is driven too deep and that likely caused it to hit the bearing. I use a pipe flange larger than the seal to drive it flush.
 

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Viton O-ring on its way. Well deserved for having to go in twice.
 
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You have a viton oring coming I see, I also have a bag of them I send out for free. But along with that. I have Tools listed in Clymers and that includes a main seal driver that inserts it to factory depth. If you want the Kit, I'll send it tomorrow via USPS priority mail and you can send it back later with 17$ in it that covers my mailing it to you. beech
<snipesb(at)cnw.com>
The part that sucks besides the seal you now need all those parts that are one time use. Flywheel bolts, Main shaft nut come to mind.
 
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Discussion Starter #18
So I got new seal today and it slides over clutch housing just fine. The service guy at local BMW said I should cut up a coke can and wrap the housing. Then when you install it you pull the tin out which will pull the lip out. To me it looks like lip should be in not away from engine. Any thoughts?
 

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The service guy at local BMW said I should cut up a coke can and wrap the housing. Then when you install it you pull the tin out which will pull the lip out. To me it looks like lip should be in not away from engine. Any thoughts?

NO NO NO do not use a tin can, just get the new seal flush with the engine housing and install the clutch housing DRY for the main seal and lightly oil the splines for the o-ring. The lip goes toward the engine, he confused it with the front crank seal which DOES face out. Don't forget the plastic spacer.
 
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