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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
LT is in shop till at least Thursday

As I mentioned in my other thread they found the seal for the FD shaft bad and are replacing it. It had just been replaced last June too.
Installled new EDC rear rotor and pads , the OEM rotor was really loose and noisy. Tech seems to have located the rattle I hear at idle and says it is the cam chain. I took a video of the sound but it is too large to upload I think. Even though it rattles and is very noisy he does not think it will hurt anything.
One valve is slightly out of spec and they are not adusting it.
He is going to drill a weep hole in the bell housing but can not see where you would drill one for the clutch slave clyinder. He also has a stripped bolt head that is in a hole which is preventing him from finishing the final drive assy and seal.

Here are a few pics I took maybe somene will see something I did not. Total bill
with new rotor, fluid changes in motor, trans, fd and seal will be around $1,100.00 with rotor and parts. Not bad for only owning it for two weeks !
I can certainly see the advantage of doing my own work in the future if I can.

Thanks to all for the replies and advice !

Willie
 

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Wish you lived a little closer. I would be happy to help you with any/all of that work. Might cost you a couple of Powerade Zeros, but at a buck each, it would still be a bargain! :)

Hope this is the last of your issues and you can feel good riding it again.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
deputy5211 said:
Wish you lived a little closer. I would be happy to help you with any/all of that work. Might cost you a couple of Powerade Zeros, but at a buck each, it would still be a bargain! :)

Hope this is the last of your issues and you can feel good riding it again.
Thanks for the kind thought but I thnik you have your hands full yourself right now. Not mention that nasty bimp on your head.

You must be a very patient man !
 

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Five kids, a wife, a dog, a grandbaby, two ex-wives... I have LEARNED patience... the hard way. LoL
 

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2005 K1200LT
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The stripped bolt head is the swing arm pivot pin ($44) and an external easy out will remove it. The best tool to use on this is a good quality snap on flank drive socket. I have buggered a few of these and now have the right socket. I used a Sears external easy out and it was driven in place with an impact gun and the I used a long breaker bar to bust it loose. It will need to be replaced as it goes back in with high torque.
 

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Do you need the swing arm pivot, John? I have a spare set or two.
 

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deputy5211 said:
Do you need the swing arm pivot, John? I have a spare set or two.
Thanks Tony. I still have a spare. The only ones I ever had an issue with were on MY bike. Never on any of the ones I have worked on for others. Go figure.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
jzeiler said:
The stripped bolt head is the swing arm pivot pin ($44) and an external easy out will remove it. The best tool to use on this is a good quality snap on flank drive socket. I have buggered a few of these and now have the right socket. I used a Sears external easy out and it was driven in place with an impact gun and the I used a long breaker bar to bust it loose. It will need to be replaced as it goes back in with high torque.
They got the pivot pin bolt out, but, put the same one back in. I have not gotten my LT back yet but when I do I will no doubt order a new one and replace
it this winter. I am sure he would have the torque spec correct on the damaged pivot pin or he would not have used it. The BMW cert. master tech woking on my LT seems pretty good and knowledgeable. I would have to take it at least 200 miles and wait two weeks to get service in Pittsburg, PA or MD. so I am happy to have the BMW dealership here in State College. Also they are a great buch of guys and professional to deal with. I should have it back today and I cannot wait to ride on this 97 degree high humidity WX we have been having.
Actually it is not bad as long as you keep moving ! ;)

thanks again for the help !
 

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WillieC said:
They got the pivot pin bolt out, but, put the same one back in. !
Why in the world would anyone put a stripped bold back in? It's only going be to be harder to get out the next time.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
tonygret said:
Why in the world would anyone put a stripped bold back in? It's only going be to be harder to get out the next time.
I could not agree more! My guess is that they have had the LT there for 4 days now and want to get it done. If they ordered one probably it would be next week until it would be done. Maybe it is not stripped very bad, in thieir opinion too. I am still a noobie and this is my 1st service with them. It will probably be OK in the long run and I will replace this winter, that is if I still have the LT. I have been seriously looking at the R models because they look alot easier to work on.

Here is the best picture I have of pivot pin head as of last Tue.
 

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Absolute insanity to knowingly put a stripped bolt back in. Was it the head or the threads?

I have a collection of LT bolts and misc fasteners. If you let me know which one you need, I will be happy to post one to you if I can put my hands on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
deputy5211 said:
Absolute insanity to knowingly put a stripped bolt back in. Was it the head or the threads?

I have a collection of LT bolts and misc fasteners. If you let me know which one you need, I will be happy to post one to you if I can put my hands on it.
It was the head, not the threads I will know more when I get it back, maybe it was not that bad. I know the tech broke a socket on it trying to get it loose.

Thanks for the offer I think, I will order at least one so I have a spare.
 

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Back to the original post. How bad was the output shaft seal leak? I started a thread a while back (link below) and the "Wise Ones" here said it was OK for the time being. I only see a single drip about every 600 to 800 miles. My last ride it didn't even show that. I am wondering if your seal replacement was even necessary.

Here is the thread with pics:

http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=68506
 

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Discussion Starter #14
tonygret said:
Back to the original post. How bad was the output shaft seal leak? I started a thread a while back (link below) and the "Wise Ones" here said it was OK for the time being. I only see a single drip about every 600 to 800 miles. My last ride it didn't even show that. I am wondering if your seal replacement was even necessary.

Here is the thread with pics:

http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=68506
It was dripping about two or three drops a day on my garage floor after a good ride. But I cannot tolerate any kind of oil leak or squeaking brakes. I had the rear rotor and pads replaced with EBC because they schreeched occaisionally. My previous four bikes were Harleys that parked in the same spot and zero oil leaks, hard to believe I know, but it is true. So I would have had the seal replaced even if it was one drop a week. Anal retentive ? Yes !
But your point is well taken I may have been able to ride it that way for a year or more and put the $280.00 to better use.

Thanks for the reply !
 

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Discussion Starter #15
UPDATE:: LT is in shop till possibly Saturday

I received a call and they are replacing all the quick disconnects on my tank too.
I think they are using the OEM ones but wish it was SS ones.
Also tech said he had to do a little cleaning around the swing arm yesterday
because it was quite dirty.
Really anxious to get it back but it has been in the high 90's with high humidity this week so I figure it is a good time for it to be in the shop. Supposed to hit 100 tomorrow and then back in the 80's Sun and next week.
I have a Triumph Tiger xc for a loner but have not ridden it except to get home.
Maybe I will take it out fo a spin this afternoon. It is really snappy but not very comfortable of me.
 
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