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Discussion Starter #1
I need to lower the pegs on my RT 1200. Suburban machinery seems to have what I need so I'll order from them if lowering my pegs isn't a big deal. The mechanic at my local BMW dealership said that I would also need to adjust my shift lever (order a new one) to compensate for the lower peg and also adjust my rear brake pedal. Now we are taking money. Is all of this needed or can I simply lower the pegs?. All I am looking for is a little more knee comfort. What do you folks think about this?

Thanks
 

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Wow, you have a "funny"dealer.

Lower the damn pegs with the Suburban Machinery kit. Not cheap but easy, effective and Looks factory.

Then spend maybe a whole 15 minutes adjusting the existing shifter position. That's 15 minutes if you have a beer in the middle of the process.

Geeze who are those people... are they crooks or just uninformed?
 

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You do NOT need to buy a new shifter or brake pedal, both adjust very easily if even needed, you might like the way they feel as is when you install the lower pegs. I like the Suburban Machinery pegs btw, makes my legs a bit more comfy.

Adjusting rear brake pedal:
http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=569293&postcount=22

The shifter is even easier, just loosen the bolt on the front and you'll see how it rotates.
 

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The only down side I found to lowering the pegs on my LT was my feet were now below the faring and now in the airflow. In dry weather that's a good thing.

Wet weather not so much.

Just my 2 cents worth.

P.s. I took the lowering kit off and went back to the stock pegs.
 

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kevincaron said:
The only down side I found to lowering the pegs on my LT was my feet were now below the faring and now in the airflow. In dry weather that's a good thing.

Wet weather not so much.

Just my 2 cents worth.

P.s. I took the lowering kit off and went back to the stock pegs.
Not an issue on the RT.
 

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I'd look for another dealer if that is any indication of how they operate.
 

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Don't let the bike fall over. The fall will snap off the footpeg. It happened to me twice on the RT. Took them off--sold them to a better rider.
 

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Lower the pegs and try riding just like that to see how it feels. I have somewhat larger feet and left the shifter and brake pedals alone for several days. I liked the position of the brake but I found that I was missing some shifts. I have a 2011 RT so I just lowered the tip a bit rather that adjusting the whole shifter. This worked perfectly for me.
 

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Adjustment of the brake and shifter pedals is probably necessary, but simple. Both have threaded rod and locknut adjustments.

I tried moving my shifter by rotating it one spline on the shaft, but it moved too far; using the adjuster put it in a just-right position. Don't let the dealer con you into thinking any additional parts are necessary. The whole process of installing the pegs and making the adjustments should be less than an hour.
 

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please let me add in...


I have dropped my bike more than once with the SM peg lowering kit. Nothing snaps off.

Like has been said before... there are two ways to raise/lower the shifter. The way to just move it a little is to adjust the linkage, using a pair of small open ended wrenches. This can be done laying on your back with the bike fully assembled IF you have double u-joint wrists. Not easy but can be done. Also not likely to give you enough movement. This is a fine-tune movement process.

Second is to move the shifter one spline or more. To do this you will probably have to remove the Foot Peg Mounting Panel... that silver part low on the left hand side. Looks hard but is really easy. Once this is off you can gain easy access to the linkage for the shifter and the Splined shaft around which you rotate. You will have to REMOVE the locking bolt that secures the shifter. You cannot do this without removing the bolt. No big deal.

The only strange part of this operation is that you may not have the star-pattern socket. Harbor Freight has a set for less than $5.

see the link AntRT provided for details.
 

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DocCarroll said:
I'd look for another dealer if that is any indication of how they operate.
It's likely you never understood what the person was trying to tell you.

There is only one shifter for the RT, so perhaps there's one for another bike that is different enough to make things better. It is quite likely that the current shifter will be less than ideal in a position it's not designed around.

The fact BMWs are expensive doesn't make anybody a crook.
 

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hopz said:
please let me add in...


I have dropped my bike more than once with the SM peg lowering kit. Nothing snaps off.

Like has been said before... there are two ways to raise/lower the shifter. The way to just move it a little is to adjust the linkage, using a pair of small open ended wrenches. This can be done laying on your back with the bike fully assembled IF you have double u-joint wrists. Not easy but can be done. Also not likely to give you enough movement. This is a fine-tune movement process.

Second is to move the shifter one spline or more. To do this you will probably have to remove the Foot Peg Mounting Panel... that silver part low on the left hand side. Looks hard but is really easy. Once this is off you can gain easy access to the linkage for the shifter and the Splined shaft around which you rotate. You will have to REMOVE the locking bolt that secures the shifter. You cannot do this without removing the bolt. No big deal.

The only strange part of this operation is that you may not have the star-pattern socket. Harbor Freight has a set for less than $5.

see the link AntRT provided for details.
There's an easier way to adjust the shifter: all you need is a T27 Torx, loosen the bolt and just rotate up or down (higher-lower)
 

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I installed mine last week and did not need to adjust the shifter. My brake pedal was a little higher than I would have likes but with the 10mm wrench and a few minutes I was good to go. Do not let all this adjustment conversation scare you.
 

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I've been following this thread and decided to get Suburban Machinery's kit for my K1300GT. The install was very easy and took 15 minutes. I'll try the bike as is before making any adjustments..
 

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barryRT said:
I'll try the bike as is before making any adjustments..
This is the best course of action.

I installed the lower peg mounts and did not have to change either the brake or the shifter. Then I got new boots... found that moving the shifter made getting the toe under easier and more natural.

As the say... "Your actual mileage may vary."

Do what feels good to you.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I am not mechanically inclined. Is simply changing the pegs out for the lower pegs going to be a big deal for a 2012 RT 1200? I am willing to give it a shot.
 

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I looked at AS Cycles site and saw the kit for an RT and they look slightly different. The kit for the GT was simple to install and I suspect that the install for an RT would be as well. The kit had very few parts, 2 adapters, 2 pins, 2 washers, 2 cotter pins and you use the originals pins and c-clips and springs. The springs on the pegs are not under-load until the pegs are raised, so they are easy to remove.
 

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rlindner said:
Is simply changing the pegs out for the lower pegs going to be a big deal for a 2012 RT 1200?
The actual process is quite simple, but it is not literally changing the pegs at all.

What it is, is taking your existing pegs off, installing a "spacer", or maybe call it an "extension piece" then re-mounting your current pegs onto the piece you just added. They will end up an inch or more lower than before and you will not have to bend your knee as much.

It might take you 10 minutes for each side. Or maybe 15 minutes if you stop for a beverage during the process. Actually the first one might take the full 15 minutes as you figure out how to hold your mouth. The other side will be quick.
 
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