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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all. This is an awesome forum. if you got a problem with your BMW you can find an answer. Last weekend i headed out to work and the rear brake stopped working. Going down the driveway i applied the brake and it went all the way down with no resistance or none that i noticed. Fluid level is fine and the brake line did not rupture, (they have not been replaced, yet). 2000 k1200 lt. I have only had the bike a few months and we are in love having made 700 mile day trips with no problems. Any help will be great.
 

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One question for starters - was the bike going forward or backwards?
 

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Hey all. This is an awesome forum. if you got a problem with your BMW you can find an answer. Last weekend i headed out to work and the rear brake stopped working. Going down the driveway i applied the brake and it went all the way down with no resistance or none that i noticed. Fluid level is fine and the brake line did not rupture, (they have not been replaced, yet). 2000 k1200 lt. I have only had the bike a few months and we are in love having made 700 mile day trips with no problems. Any help will be great.
Welcome to the forum Danny and yes, this place is awesome.

My first question is, does it pump up at all if you keep pressing it or does it never get any resistance. If it pumps up then you have air from somewhere in the system. If it pumps up, can you press down on it and have it hold any pressure or does it leak down? If you get any pressure, I would hold it and start looking for leaks of fluid most likely from the short hose between the pedal master cylinder and the ABS unit. It could be the rear one but most of that is visible without removing any Tupperware or plates. The 2000 has the ABS II system so even if the ABS unit was failing, you would still have full brakes.

Normally air doesn't get into the system unless something is lose or broken. If you do pull the right side foot plate off, be careful of that very old hose. If it isn't already broken, it will be by the time you twist the plate to get a look at it. :smile:

Being Original, I would highly recommend getting the Spiegler replacement stainless braided set and either install it or have it installed just as a matter of safety. It will very likely fix your current issue as well.

Gordon
 

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Oh, fill out some of the rest of your profile so we know if anyone is close enough to come over and give you a hand if you need it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
i will update my profile in a bit but to clarifya few things.
there is pressure on the brake but when it is held down it bleeds down quick. i tried to bled the brakes following the tutorial on you tube but could get nothing from the rear brake.
 

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i will update my profile in a bit but to clarifya few things.
there is pressure on the brake but when it is held down it bleeds down quick. i tried to bled the brakes following the tutorial on you tube but could get nothing from the rear brake.
OK, if you do get pressure and it bleeds down quickly and you have no fluid pooling on the ground then you have an internal leak and that can only be the master cylinder. Fluid is pushing past the internal seals and it needs to be repaired/replaced. Brake lines should be done at this time also or you will be back in there doing them soon anyways.

It does concern me that you are getting nothing from the rear brakes when trying to bleed them.

Beech, is there anything that can cause this symptom other than a bad MC? Could the feed line from the reservoir be blocked?

G
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hey Gordon when I bled the brakes there was good flow between the reservoir and the ABS bleeder screw so im leaning more toward the master cylinder. I will check the lines to it tonight and see if i can locate one or a rebuild kit if that is advisable. found a post from 2012 that has been helpful.
 

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Hey Gordon when I bled the brakes there was good flow between the reservoir and the ABS bleeder screw so im leaning more toward the master cylinder. I will check the lines to it tonight and see if i can locate one or a rebuild kit if that is advisable. found a post from 2012 that has been helpful.
Good luck. I am not aware of individual parts for a rebuild of the LT MC. I looked on beamer boneyard and didn't see any listing there and the Max BMW parts fiche only shows the entire MC. You can find it here for part number and price if you can't find a rebuild kit. Someone may know of compatible parts though.

MAX BMW Motorcycles - BMW Parts & Technical Diagrams - K1200LT 99-04 (89V3)


34 31 7 650 749 BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER - D=14,29MM 0.26 1 $253.81
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Got the Master cylinder ordered and am waiting on Christmas season to be over to order the brake lines. I will let you know how it goes.
 

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Got the Master cylinder ordered and am waiting on Christmas season to be over to order the brake lines. I will let you know how it goes.
Looking forward to hearing about your progress. Make sure you push a bunch of fluid through the new lines as it sounds like the rear line may be blocked currently if you got flow at the ABS but nothing at the rear caliper.

If you are so inclined, you can flush the clutch system while doing the brake lines. My little hint on not having to purchase another $10 bleed nipple for the BMW bleed fittings on the front right and clutch line bleed fitting on the right side is to do the front first, then the clutch using the bleed nipple from the rear caliper to depress the check ball in the special fittings and then move to the rear. It is nice to have a spare for this purpose but with replacing the lines, you can simply use the rear and finish that last and save the dime.

I like your location, no shortage of really great roads to ride. Looking forward to getting back up there in April or before to explore some more. Merry Christmas.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
OK here is the follow up on the Spiegler brake line replacement. It was a lot easier than i thought (I made it harder than it was). I believe that some of the lines had been replaced before as some of the banjo bolts were stripped out a bit like someone had used the wrong size hex head. But it is done with a new rear MC and they are working great. Thank you for all the help and advice. A special thank you to Northern Illinois BMW for the videos and wisdom. BMWcoolk1200 you are awesome thank you.
 

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Saw this post too late to advise before you did the repairs, but the information is still pertinent.

Replace the stock bleed fittings with Speed Bleeders, including the one on the clutch bleed line. For the few dollars they cost, they will save you time and frustration, and make bleeding a piece of cake. With the SBs, you loosen the fitting slightly when beginning the process, and tighten only when done. No more needing to open/close with each pump.

For the record, I have no affiliation with Speed Bleeders other than being a highly satisfied customer for many years, across multiple bikes and cages.
 

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OK here is the follow up on the Spiegler brake line replacement. It was a lot easier than i thought (I made it harder than it was). I believe that some of the lines had been replaced before as some of the banjo bolts were stripped out a bit like someone had used the wrong size hex head. But it is done with a new rear MC and they are working great. Thank you for all the help and advice. A special thank you to Northern Illinois BMW for the videos and wisdom. BMWcoolk1200 you are awesome thank you.
Good job Danny. A big step for safety on your LT. You always want to be able to stop. Go is easy on these things. :laugh:
 
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