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Discussion Starter #1
Ok guys, here's MY sob story:

Discovered oil leak at the intemediate housing last year before the Slimey Crud Run. Been putting off the work all winter due to lack of funds and gumption, but finally dived in this weekend. Disassembly was proceeding according to plan, right up until I rounded off the hex head on the right side pivot pin (or whatever you call the thing that screws into the swing arm and protrudes through the frame and into the bearings). Things have now ground to a halt. Any thoughts on how to proceed? With little hope I tried a bolt extractor that obviously just spun right off. Heat gun and gentle tapping with hammer yielded no results. All I can come up with is to cut the swing arm apart and buy a replacement off ebay for like $150. Any other ideas?
 

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This sucks Tom. I nearly had the same thing happen when I removed the swing arm. In my case it was because I hadn't remove the pesky nut which would have relieved the tension on the pivot bolt. I got lucky and stopped turning before permanent damage was done. If you have a welder you might try to weld the hex wrench to the pivot bolt. It sounds like you are beyond the little bit of sandpaper, valve lapping compound etc. I would just tack the darn wrench to the bolt and be done with it.

Bon chance mon ami!

Loren
 

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2005 K1200LT
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If you have one side off already you can remove the swingarm if the exhaust is off. Then you can get to it off the bike or take it to a machine shop for removal. I used an "outside" easy out on it after it was out. I drove the hardned easy out on with an impact gun then used the breaker bar and cheater to get it off.You need to use a high quality 14mm socket on them and even then I broke a snap on flank drive unit.
 

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Tom,

I had the same thing happen. It is not as bad as it looks. John Z told me the same thing that he told you in the post above. It was a big relief to me to remove the swing arm by dropping the exhaust. Once I got the swing arm on the floor, a BAPW (big ass pipe wrench) broke the pivot pin loose and all was well. You have already destroyed the thing so the pipe wrench won't hurt it any more. I ordered a new pivot pin and kept on trucking (or is it biking).

I got a lot of help from all the wonderful folks on this forum. Couldn't have done it without the input.

Good luck and let us know how you make out.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Awesome input guys, I really appreciate it! As an aside, that awesome write-up from the boys in Texas is what I've been studying all winter. It's a Godsend to be part of this forum. :)

Yeah, the pipe wrench thing sounds really promising and maybe a little cathartic too. The only thing I'm grappling with now is how to get the prop-shaft out of the swing arm.
 

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You should be able to grab hold of it and give it a good yank. It is only held in place by a snap ring. BTW, I replaced the snap ring as well when I did mine.

Actually, I think you can slide the swing arm off over the shaft after you drop the left side. I am scratching my memory on that. Maybe John will chime in.
 

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Tom,

Did you watch John Z's video (weep hole drilling) at the top of this forum? It was a big help to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Boatzo,

The propshaft seems to fit inside the front end of the swingarm to where it restricts the movement of the swingarm enough that it won't move enough to clear the frame on the left side and the pin on the right side. I'll have to take another look at it tomorrow and see if I can twist it around a different way.
 

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2005 K1200LT
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Put a pair of vise grips on the shaft (grip the spline area gently) and tie a rope through the handle. In sert hammer into the loop of rope and "swing batter". She will pop right out. You just have to over come the circlip in the end of the shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Update: Ok, so now both of those bearing stud things are stripped/rounded off. Plan B: carve up swing arm with sawzall and purchase nice used one off Ebay for $50. Most disappointing.
 

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You are removing the lock nut, Right ?

Just checking..

Someone must have used the red locktite on them or something..

Try some heat then the pipe wrench as suggested...

But it you can get another swingarm for $50.00.. Then cutting the old one up might be fun..

Good Luck

John
 

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This is what I used on my rounded pins. I had to gind off a bit of metal from the very end to get a good puchase on the stud with the external easyout.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
jzeiler,

Yep - got a set of those myself. Tried turning one on, then pounding one on, and they just twisted right off. I know these parts are supposed to be torqued on at like 200 lb/ft, but I was BENDING a 28" breaker bar trying to turn 'em. Maybe there's previously applied locktite, though I heated it up as much as I dared with a propane torch. Ah well... Nice used swing arm is already on order for $50.

Next question - gonna have to disconnect the fuel and induction system here soon to drop the engine - any gotchas there I should watch for, guys? And I'm not sure of the extent to which I'll have to disconnect and/or dismount the radiators.

And because I don't already have enough on my mind, I just found out my shop (I work at a non-BMW motorcycle dealership) is being bought by a new owner. So now it's asses and elbows time as soon as I get that swing arm. The new owners may not be as accommodating with the use of shop space and lift table.
 

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Yes, there is something to watch out for when you drop the back of the motor. Be very careful that you don't break the water jacket inlet. It sits on the top left side of the motor. The radiator hoses hook up to it. You can see it as you look past the inside of the left radiator, just follow the water hose back. It will hit the motor mount bracket on that side and break, it's made out of plastic. Guess how I found out! Hope it gets easier as you move forward.
 

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I drove mine on with an impact gun first, then used the breaker bar with a 4' pipe on the handle. Popped right loose. The easy out did not survive that encounter and will no longer "bite". 160 Nm (118 Ft Lb) not 200Nm.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Just an update, folks. Got my new used swing arm in the mail Tuesday PM, proceeded to cut old one apart Wed AM before work. Fri AM, disconnected coolant hoses and rotated engine down. Sunday, will remove trans and replace trans seals, hack together anti-clutch-turning bracket thingy, and hopefully get clutch off. Monday, definitely clutch and o-ring/rear main seal, hopefully start in on reassembly. Goal: have bike back to being a "Roller" by end of next week. Monday will be the only full day available to work on bike this week. After that, I'll only have an hour and a half each morning.

Up to this point, the only real buzzkill in all of this has been the swing arm pivot debacle. Everything else has proceeded smoothly - I'm just...uneasy about all of it. For what it's worth, I sidestepped entirely the removal of the speed sensor on the side of the trans by just unplugging the sensor from the rest of the harness and liberating the attached lead from it's zip-ties; the connector for it is secured to the bracketry kind of near the rear of the right-side tip-over bar. Did the same with the O2 sensor.

On one hand, I'm glad the boss let me do this at work, as I have no lift table at home. On the other hand, that also means I'm far more pressed for time. There are other things I'd like to do while I'm in there, but I'm hearing murmurs of discontent from the owner of the dealership. On the third hand, having a little outside pressure to finish the thing is FAR more motivating than the long-since-depleted education and entertainment value of this project. All the Harley techs continue to wander over at intervals, direct a thousand-yard stare at my hot mess, and mutter things like, "I'm so glad I went to Harley school instead of Beemer school." My boss assures me that nothing on a Harley this side of installing a big-bore kit on a V-Rod is anywhere near this complex. So the good news is my stock has gone up significantly with the technicians. As a service writer, my techs and I have always shared a mutual skepticism of each others competency. Now, not so much. If the bike actually starts and runs after all of this, that'd be REALLY good.

After I get everything back together, and the jagged hole this project has torn in my psyche has healed (I honestly felt nauseous while cutting my swing arm apart), I'll have to post a few pics. Mostly, it's nothing we haven't see before. Clearly, any monkey can disassemble one of these things if I've gotten this far! Reassembly with full functionality is the true test of a man.
We'll see. :v:
 

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digitalsasquatch said:
... Reassembly with full functionality is the true test of a man.
We'll see. :v:
So true!

And, for a good measure, add a bit of red Locktite to the pivot studs - that will piss off the next owner of your bike! Har, har!

Seriously, though, I followed your thread since you started the project. Good job! I have attempted to remove the swingarm last season and encountered a problem very much like yours. I gave up just before I irreversibly mangled both bolts. In the process, though, I broke two breaker bars and some 3 or 4 sockets (including a custom-made one with a reinforcing sleeve).

John advised me on using the external easyouts, but I did not build up enough courage to try that, figuring that should that method fail, I will not be able to reassemble the bike.

I'm interested in seeing how you manage with cutting the swingarm off.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
rdwalker,

Red locktite?!?! Aww man, that's BRUTAL!!!! Nah, I'm not that cruel. And anyway, that would just insure karmically that I AM the next guy to take it apart again.

I'm gonna upload a pic I took. Got it off with only 3 cuts. Tools used: Sawzall, metal cutting blade, bucket-load of caution. The single cut I made on the forward-most transverse section was technically two cuts made to meet in the middle. If I had tried to make that cut from the rear only, I'd have run afoul of the slave cylinder hydraulics and/or the trans case. Then I just cut a chunk out of the the diagonal section. At one point the weight of the swing arm itself tried to close the cut on the blade in such a way that it squeezed the blade and jerked the sawzall around a bit. Mechanics gloves are a nice touch here.
 

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digitalsasquatch said:
... Got it off with only 3 cuts... .
Nicely done!

I'll keep the method in mind. It bypassed all trouble areas - because if it was me, I'd wind up cutting next to something fragile/expensive. :(
 

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That is one way to get that bugger out - WOW!!! Leave the reverser switch assy on the transmission as well just unplug it from the harness. Almost everyone that has slid this off the shaft has damaged one or both of the micro switches.
 
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