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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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Discussion Starter #1
Figures - Just as I am getting ready to retire and ride a bunch I hear a new whine in second gear that was not there before. Even Jean noticed it Friday as we rode up to Granny Fishes House for a catfish dinner. This tells me it is a failing transmission input shaft bearing. (I have replaced three of these so far on other bikes)

So I have ordered the parts and will be going in this weekend. While the gear box is out I think I will also pull and replace the clutch (it has over 60 K on it and a lot of trailer pulling). I got the Siebenrock, better than stock clutch disc from Beemer Boneyard. Just under $94 with the MOA discount. I had ordered one for a friend and really liked the looks of it.
Also picked up a new slave from them as well also under $100. The bike has 102 K on it and since the clutch will be out I may as well pull the intermediate case and give the sprag clutch a good soaking in Gunk carb cleaner. This would also be a good time to replace the old drive shaft that was getting a bit notchy in the u-joints with the low mileage one I got off e-bay a few years ago. Then there is the 13 year old fuel lines and I think I'll send the injectors out for a good cleaning while I am at it. Anybody think of anything else?

I just want to get as much done as I can so I don't have to go back in there again for another 100K.
 
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No. Sounds like you got it all covered.
 

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RC Engineering is a good outfit for injector service. Fast, good, inexpensive
 

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Only thing I can think of would be the breather tube. Either replace it or fab up a copper one while the engine is dropped and be done. You wouldn't get them in time for this weekend but there are still sets of the silicone radiator hoses on flebay should yours be on the old side.
 

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When I first read this thread's title, the first thought I had was that John was having some health issues again. One of the premier experts on the LT is asking the group for suggestions on what may have been missed on preventative maintenance? I can't think of anything.

One suggestion, though, is that you need to get a GT/GTL/GTLE and lend your expertise on the K1600 forum. We don't have anyone there with anywhere near the depth of knowledge that resides on this forum in a handful of guys. The only thing I can ascribe this to is either the relative new-ness of the K1600 in comparison to the LT; or its improved reliability factor (no known issues relating to final drives, QDs, cannisterectomies, front end wobble at deceleration, clutch/shift linkage/ABS unit/brake line/top case latch failures, etc.). I'd also like to see more DIY videos on maintaining the K1600s, like exist for the LTs. >:)
 

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WOW John, as Mr Beck indicated, Glad it's the LT that's Going In for major surgery and not you. Your Title to the post was attention getting to say the least! Anyway, and more importantly, congratulations on your up-coming retirement.
 
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Figures - Just as I am getting ready to retire and ride a bunch I hear a new whine in second gear that was not there before. Even Jean noticed it Friday as we rode up to Granny Fishes House for a catfish dinner. This tells me it is a failing transmission input shaft bearing. (I have replaced three of these so far on other bikes)

So I have ordered the parts and will be going in this weekend. While the gear box is out I think I will also pull and replace the clutch (it has over 60 K on it and a lot of trailer pulling). I got the Siebenrock, better than stock clutch disc from Beemer Boneyard. Just under $94 with the MOA discount. I had ordered one for a friend and really liked the looks of it.
Also picked up a new slave from them as well also under $100. The bike has 102 K on it and since the clutch will be out I may as well pull the intermediate case and give the sprag clutch a good soaking in Gunk carb cleaner. This would also be a good time to replace the old drive shaft that was getting a bit notchy in the u-joints with the low mileage one I got off e-bay a few years ago. Then there is the 13 year old fuel lines and I think I'll send the injectors out for a good cleaning while I am at it. Anybody think of anything else?

I just want to get as much done as I can so I don't have to go back in there again for another 100K.

Starter rebuild.
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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Discussion Starter #8
Starter rebuild.
I will at least open it up. I priced the OEM Brush holder set @ $133. May see if I can source some brushes locally.
 

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I will at least open it up. I priced the OEM Brush holder set @ $133. May see if I can source some brushes locally.
I still have the starter removed from greyc03's LT that was failing. I am sure it is just the brush set but at $133 for the oem as you said, it has been sitting in a box. I can buy a new one or at least a reman one for $149. I have done considerable searching for after market Denso rebuild kits but all seem to only have 2 brushes and not 3 like the LT starter. I have not tried any local auto electric shops yet as i have no immediate need. If you come up with a reasonable source for some brushes, let me know. I would like to rebuild it but not at near the cost of a new one.
 

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Since you are going to tear down the tranny anyway, it is so much easier to replace all of the seals. My input shaft bearing went bad after the clutch was destroyed. It even destroyed my cover plate as well. Therefore, I decided to replace all of the seals along with some of the bearings.
 

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I will at least open it up. I priced the OEM Brush holder set @ $133. May see if I can source some brushes locally.
Wow! That is obscene even by BMW standards. I hope you can find an alternate source.
 

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Enjoy The Ride
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Phil at Phil's Starter & Alternator rebuilt my starter. He is a Bosch trained rebuilder. You can call him at 704-435-2934 for a price on a rebuild or he might have the parts you could buy.
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks Dave. I can get a rebuilt from EME for 149 and a new one for 199 so that makes a third option. I have really had no issues with the starter but 100k is 100k so I will at least look at it. I want to go for one more ride and then dump the transmission oil and check the magnet for shiny stuff before I actually go tearing her apart.
 

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Thanks Dave. I can get a rebuilt from EME for 149 and a new one for 199 so that makes a third option. I have really had no issues with the starter but 100k is 100k so I will at least look at it. I want to go for one more ride and then dump the transmission oil and check the magnet for shiny stuff before I actually go tearing her apart.
Got that transmission pulled yet?

>:)
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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14,545 Posts
Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Got that transmission pulled yet?

>:)
I am getting ready to take a long ride then drain the oil and look at the magnet. I'll report back on what I find.

OK I could not duplicate the "whine" I heard last weekend. I drained the oil and there was a lot of "gray Fuzz", more than the usual, but when I transferred the fuzz to a paper towel there was a lot of tiny sparkles in it. No big chunks. So I refilled the transmission and will put another 100-200 miles on it and drain it again. It had been 10 k since the last oil change.

Looked at the fuzz under 30x magnification and it appears to be tiny flakes so I guess the bearing is going.
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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14,545 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
And to confirm something is definitely going on here is the magnet after only 100 miles today on fresh oil (that was noticeably darker).

Just for fun I am setting up the GoPro to do a time lapse as I tear the old girl down.
 

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And to confirm something is definitely going on here is the magnet after only 100 miles today on fresh oil (that was noticeably darker).

Just for fun I am setting up the GoPro to do a time lapse as I tear the old girl down.
Great idea on the time lapse. Look forward to seeing it.
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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Discussion Starter #18
Here are a few stills of what I got done this afternoon. One thing I did find was a missing nut on the left top of the rear sub frame. I have never loosened this one for anything so I was very surprised to see it was missing.

Over all the tear down went smoothly. I had it just on the center stand until all the "stuff" behind the transmission was removed. Then had the boy pull down on the top case as I slid the chock under the front wheel. Next step is to jack the back end up.

There is some oily dirt visible around the junction of the transmission to intermediate flange so something is leaking a little. The slave came out dry (and so was the thrust bearing) but it has over 70 K on it and a replacement from BBY was less than 100. The pressure on the slave indicated I still have a good bit of material on the clutch disc, usually when the disc is worn the slave will be under pressure until just before the bolts let loose. This was only under pressure for 3/8 inch.

All the rear seals were dry in the transmission.
 

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New thing to check as I have never looked at mine.

Tighten up rear sub frame nuts. Check!
 
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