[bfree]

I have had my bike for just on a month. When I purchased it I was well aware to check for any clutch. slippage. It was fine. I went to move the bike out to the front of the house yesterday and found the clutch not working properly and the clutch engaging with the handle fully pulled in. Stalled the bike and needed to pump the clutch to get action. Checked and topped up the fluid thinking this may be the issue. Today the same thing happened as I moved the bike first thing. Clutch engaged with lever depressed. Had to run so pumped it and went on my ride into the city.
Then it happened, I was moving along in traffic in a high gear, rolled on the power and yes, the clutch slipped. Tried again and did it with ease.

My real question is, can I get away with just repairing/replacing the slave and drilling the weep hole. Or do I have to go all the way and clean or replace the clutch?

 

[cws]

Sorry to hear that Brian.
I can't offer an answer myself, but it might help others if you mention how many k's on it too, more info the better for these guys.
Edit: Oh yeah, from another post, 30,000km

Hope you get out light....
cheers

ps.. maybe post in the main LT forum too... not everyone looks at the Aussie threads unless they happen to search through recent posts.

I suspect most advice will be tear it down and expect the worst, although I did burn-out the first clutch at 16,000km... no leaks. At 90,000km on the replacement and still good (cross fingers, touch wood etc etc)

 

[bfree]

Chris,
It is interesting what you say about the clutch possibly being worn out. I have an 1100lt which I had to change the clutch on due to contamination, and the sensation was different.

On the 1100 it was a slip, but today I felt more of a chatter or a jumping sensation. Can you describe if this was a similar sensation when your clutch went?

Thanks Brian

 

[cws]

Mine was a definite slip, roll on the power and the takeup is delayed, had to ease the throttle until the clutch grabbed properly then accelerate quite lightly. I knew I'd burnt the clutch the way I was riding the bike (actually made it stink terribly one day...) so had to change my riding style on the bike completely.
I got the details for drilling the weep-hole printed out and the dealer (Worthingtons) drilled it for me when they did the change under warranty.
At no point can I remember any chatter or jumping feeling. I'd replaced the clutch on a K75RT just before I traded up to the LT, and was pretty disappointed when the clutch started going so early. But it was my own fault, its way too heavy to try to slip the clutch at hard throttle from the lights, the clutch really has to grab first, then you can open up.

 

[bfree]

Thanks Chris,
As you stated earlier, open the girl up, and work with what you find.

Brian

 

[K100Dennis]

Brian, 30,000Km's on your '05 and a (possible) failed clutch slave. This makes me slightly nervous as my '05 has 27,000 on it and all is well with the clutch and slave at present. I inspected the slave when I got the bike (14,000 Km's) and it was all good, so I drilled the weep hole at the time for future checking and hopefully to prevent the leaking fluid getting along the push rod. Trouble is, we are crossing the Nullarbor in September, touring WA and returning to Tassie, I reckon about a 10,000 Km trip. It's a bit like a lotto ticket as to whether the slave cylinder (thrust bearing actually) will last or not. I was thinking my strategy would be to sacraficially exchange the clutch slave at 50,000Km's, but now I'm not so sure, based on the consequences of failure on that long (90 mile straight) road.

 

[JPSpen]

Dennis, You've done your homework, You'll be fine..

As far as the OP goes.. Yes, You should go all the way in... While in there you might as well spend the extra hundred it'll take to change out all the seals and then you'll be at a good place... Drill the weep hole and go riding...


You should also think about the new ceramic clutch disk....

John....

 

[Axle]

Morning guys, Dennis don't worry about anything till it breaks, these bike are not all the same I have 115000.00km on mine and touchwood has not had a spanner on it, I forget I changed the diff brg at 97000km Brian sorry to hear that but if it were mine the clutch has to come out once the friction plate is covered in oil it will be useless

 

[bfree]

Not happy, NOT HAPPY.
Followed the video instructions. Even had it beside me as I went in. Cracked the rear diff both sides, no drama. Removed the lug not from the left hand side, adjusting bolt free and moving, then it happened, the bolt locked up. I mean stuck. heat nothing but pure brutal force got the sucker out. Inside it was all rusted. Bearing had ceased inside and with the help of a friend, ( experienced mechanic) we have got it apart but did some thread damage. Now I am probably going to have to have a hele coil fitted to the swing arm. And I am still to get the diff off as it is frozen in there. It appears the spline is rust affected and wont let go. There is evidence of aluminum corrosion as well.

I proceeded with rest of the removal whilst I pondered my situation. all has gone well apart from getting the tail shaft to release from the spline. It also appears to have corrosion.

This is before I find out if I need a new slave and clutch.

Anyone like to offer advice or opinion. Could this be caused by someone using pressure cleaners?

 

[cws]

:corn:

copy to your other post so John Z etc will see and offer their invaluable advice...

 

[K100Dennis]

So Brian, lets get this right - are you saying the final drive won't come away from the swing arm because the splines won't separate ? If there is aluminium corrosion (inside the swing arm cavity ?) I would be thinking that either one or both rubber bellows has been leaking and copius amounts of water have gotten into the cavity and caused both the aluminium corrosion and the freeezing together of the spline. It may have been pressure washer water, but it also may have been pressure washer detergent, which contains caustic, very bad for both raw aluminium and steel. It may even have been some salt water, who knows. Now for the solutions. The damaged thread may be a challenge as that thread for the pivot trunnion in the swing arm is quite fine, so a helicoil, recoil etc may be difficult to obtain. That being the case, you may need to go to a good all round machine shop and get some welding and line boring done, then have the thread re-cut. In Sydney you could try Halliday Engineering. As for the seized spline, you need to try to get some heat directly onto the end section of the female part, but keep in mind that there is a rubber damper built into the drive shaft and it can be damaged by the heat. Just a little direct heat and copius amounts of diesel/oil mix will penetrate the spline and may release it. Try not to damage any alloy parts, and rmember that excessive heat will also damage the uni joints. Hope this is of assistance, PM me if you need more advice etc.

 

[bfree]

Hi all,
Today, I enjoyed the morning playing a round of golf with my 12 year old boy. He beat me, net.
I then tackled the final stages of the removal. I ended up removing the swing arm with the final drive intacked. The problem I still have, is the tail shaft will not split. I have tried heat and it will not come apart. I feel as has been stated, something caustic has made it's way in there and screwed it up.

I removed the slave to be presented by a flood of Dot4 fluid. The chamber was full and the rod was wet. After pulling the slave down, I am now looking to re built it. I did notice the bearing was dry. So I have to consider my options there. That said. an once of effort, and a saving of hundreds makes it worthwhile.

 

[bfree]

Hi to those watching,
Update.

Drilled the weep hole.

Found a company that will make a new seal for the slave. Interesting comments made that the original seal was made of non dot 4 compatible substance. Just negotiating the price. Bearing dry, but okay. Will melt some grease and re loob the bearing.

Have an engineering company that will repair the swing arm. I may have only damaged the pivot bolt meaning a tap will clean it up. If not they can add a sleave of sorts that will be fine. phew.

Tail shaft finally came apart tonight, lots of wd40 and three attempts to heat it. Tonight I upped the ante on the heat and it worked. The grease had turned to a glue which i ended up FILEING off.

Spoke with a BMW mechanic today who says he has seen pivet bolts catch in the past for no apparent reason.

Dennis,
If the seal is a success I will keep you posted. Tried to locate the bearing without success.

 

[K100Dennis]

I need the dimensions of that thrust bearing, and preferebly a pic or 2. Dimensions I need are outside diameter, inside diameter and height when assembld, presuming 3 pieces (2 raceways and a cage with balls). All dimensions should be in metric and will be nominal. I also need any numbers and letters which may be on there. I have both the SKF and *** catalogues at work as well as access to SKF applications engineers via our company frame agreement. Use a good quality grease for the bearing re-lube, not 1 with any tacky additives, rather a light ggrease like Mobilith SHC100 for example. Don't "melt" it to get it in there just work it in with clean hands. This is very interesting, I'm assuming you got the bearing out of the housing by heating the housing to release the bearing. Keep us all posted pleae. Dennis