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Just sold my 2003 and now working on a 2000 with low miles bought from a shop not running was setting i don't know for how long at motorcycle shop and i have the same Fuel pump issue ,Just wanted to share Fuel pump photo, don't know why a piece of sheet metal (Flange) list price at $480 ????. someone should have it made in china for under $30 will make a tons of money.

Plastic?
 

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That one doesn't look too bad but you won't know till you try and clean it. It might still be serviceable with a new pump and filter with all the hoses.
 
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A little late but I saw this thread and thought I might offer an alternative. I have a K1200RS that sat for three years with a blown motor. Swapped the motor and found my fuel pump flange was severely corroded. I was unable to resolder the wires despite careful cleaning the contact surfaces--there just wasn't enough of the two connectors left.

I ordered off e-Bay an "ATL CFD-504 Bulkhead" electrical connector ($!8) and some 12 AWG PWFE electrical wire ($36 for all shipped). I'll enlarge/drill out the existing flange hole that carries the wire to fit my CFD-504 and rewire with the 12 AWG wire. .The CFD is rated for all fuels including racing fuels and ethanol and PWFE wire is also rated for submersion in gasoline.

It should work. I'll try and post picks and follow-up when done.

Kontoboy

Postscript--the swapped motor (also bought on e-Bay) does work. I swapped the tank from my 2004 K1200 GT to fire it up.
 

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So today I installed my fuel tank electrical bulkhead connector, new fuel pump and filter. So far so good.

The bulkhead connector has room for two 12 of 14 gauge wires and is advertised as tolerant to gas, diesel, racing fuels and ethanol. The connector slides through the hole in the tank and is secured with a plastic nut and gasket. Inside the connector is a rubber piece the you slip your electric wires through, then screwing down the domed plastic cap compresses the rubber for a fluid tight seal.
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I started by removing the white plastic electrical connector (too corroded to resolder the wires) them drilled out the hole to 5/8" with a step drill to fit the ATL CFD-504 Bulkhead ($18 on eBay). Then I used my angle grinder with a grinding wheel on it to grind a slot for the plastic nut to fit on top. I finished the hole up with a round metal file and the Dremel with a small grinding wheel to remove any burrs and sharp edges so the bulkhead connector had nice flat mating surface for a good seal.

Automotive tire Rim Motor vehicle Vehicle brake Gas


The clearance is tight with the hose fittings and tubes. But it does fit. (You can see where I hit the line from the fuel pump with my grinder--don't do that!)

Hand Automotive tire Finger Coil Gas


Wiring is just cutting and soldering my new wire to the old plug and new eyelets to connect to the pump. Brown (my black) is negative and goes to the larger terminal on the pump, green/white (my red) is positive and goes to the small terminal on the pump). I used PTFE 12 gauge wire since it is suppose to tolerate submersion in fuel.

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Now I have the fuel pump installed in the tank and the tank back on the bike. I fired it up and it seems to be running fine (I just swapped out motors). I'm going to let it sit overnight before I put the bodywork back on so I can see if there are any leaks.

I hope this works for folks. Last I looked a new flange was over $400 from BMW, and all the used ones on eBay looked no better than mine before I cleaned it up.

Kontoboy
1999 K1200 RS (with a 2003 K1200GT motor in it).
2003 K1200 GT
1989 K75
 

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Update on bulkhead electrical connector....

Bad news--it leaked!

It dripped about a cup of gas in 24 hours. It appears to be coming from the hole in the flange and not the holes for the wires.

The rubber gasket that came with the fitting was thin--less than a 16th inch. I suspect if is not sealing tightly so my plan is to remove it an install a couple vitron o-rings, one on each side of the flange then reassemble and and retest.

Unfortunately I'm hitting the road tomorrow and out of town a couple weeks. I'll update once I return.

Kontoboy
 

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Update on bulkhead electrical connector....

Bad news--it leaked!

It dripped about a cup of gas in 24 hours. It appears to be coming from the hole in the flange and not the holes for the wires.

The rubber gasket that came with the fitting was thin--less than a 16th inch. I suspect if is not sealing tightly so my plan is to remove it an install a couple vitron o-rings, one on each side of the flange then reassemble and and retest.

Unfortunately I'm hitting the road tomorrow and out of town a couple weeks. I'll update once I return.

Kontoboy
Nice photos and work. Hopefully it all holds up with the new o-rings! Thanks for sharing!
 

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If it still fails, weld it up and run your wires down from the top through the vent housing or through the top of the tank. No pressure to leak there. Add a quick disconnect for disassembly internally. Just make sure it wouldn't interfere with the fuel gauge tube.
 

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If it still fails, weld it up and run your wires down from the top through the vent housing or through the top of the tank. No pressure to leak there. Add a quick disconnect for disassembly internally. Just make sure it wouldn't interfere with the fuel gauge tube.
That suggestion us definitely worth exploring and I had considered that route. However I don't believe I have the clearance under my RS's bodywork to fit the bulkhead and protruding wires. Also I'm not a welder either so I have needed to find a welder to fill the flange hole.

Kontoboy
 
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