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Hi!
I just googled, "k1200lt replacement fuel pump" and I got a bunch of inexpensive options... here is one:

Thanks Bob, I don't need the pump I need 16142305975 it's called a fuel pump flange. no one has them and the price is ridiculous new is $400 plus
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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If it was mine I would find a suitable insulated feed through, drill out the old one and install the new one with fuel tank repair epoxy. It will bond the feed through to the metal flange and stand up to the immersion in fuel.

Something like THIS I have used this before on fuel tanks, works great.
 

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If it was mine I would find a suitable insulated feed through, drill out the old one and install the new one with fuel tank repair epoxy. It will bond the feed through to the metal flange and stand up to the immersion in fuel.

Something like THIS I have used this before on fuel tanks, works great.
I may have to do that I was thinking bead blasting the unit then re-soldering the new wires to the old connector
 

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I have the same issue with corrosion the bike was sitting for years the fuel pump wires have no insulation I can't find a hold anyplace, I guess it's dealer time UGH, if anyone knows where I can pick up the hold or assembly it would be greatly appreciated. The plastic fuel port broke off with minimal pressure
Sitting for years with ethanol in the fuel or with an empty tank is very expensive for vehicles.
 

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I realize this is an old thread. I didn't see it when I started a new one for the same issue, but I wanted to chime in for posterity's sake. I'm leaning towards John's idea about aftermarket thru-connectors for mine, or whatever the correct term is. The ones I've seen shouldn't require any epoxy, but it's good to know that the stuff exists, should I need it. That ethanol's an SOB, but it looks like the world is stuck with it, as far as governments wanting to shove it down our fuel tanks. 🤬
 

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I've found a replacement assembly for my needs, but I'd be interested to know of any specific methods for either repairing or working around the original thru connector that tends to get corroded to point of terminals being non-existent. So, if anyone knows, then please share. :oops:
 
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I've found a replacement assembly for my needs, but I'd be interested to know of any specific methods for either repairing or working around the original thru connector that tends to get corroded to point of terminals being non-existent. So, if anyone knows, then please share. :oops:
Mine hasn’t corroded in the 15 years I have owned it. I suspect the issue is leaving gas in the tank a long time and letting it go stale, particularly if it is ethanol poisoned gas. My LT sits for 4-5 months each winter, but I add Stabil and try to fill up with non-ethanol fuel as my last tank of the year. So far, so good.
 

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Mine hasn’t corroded in the 15 years I have owned it. I suspect the issue is leaving gas in the tank a long time and letting it go stale, particularly if it is ethanol poisoned gas. My LT sits for 4-5 months each winter, but I add Stabil and try to fill up with non-ethanol fuel as my last tank of the year. So far, so good.
Please tell me how your response contributes as an answer to my request.
 
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Please tell me how your response contributes as an answer to my request.
I am not sure how to make it any simpler, but I will try.

1. You wrote that you had found a replacement assembly. That suggests it doesn’t have a corroded connector.
2. If you have a connector that isn’t corroded, it seems logical you might want to keep it that way.
3. Not storing the bike for long periods of time with E10 in the tank is probably a key thing to avoid future corrosion.
4. I thus suggested this to you.

Is that simple enough?
 
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I am not sure how to make it any simpler, but I will try.

1. You wrote that you had found a replacement assembly. That suggests it doesn’t have a corroded connector.
2. If you have a connector that isn’t corroded, it seems logical you might want to keep it that way.
3. Not storing the bike for long periods of time with E10 in the tank is probably a key thing to avoid future corrosion.
4. I thus suggested this to you.

Is that simple enough?
I'm sorry in your infinite wisdom you weren't able to keep up. Yes, I have an assy. that is useable as is. But wait--- there's more. I have the original one that I want to repair. Just like others have rebuilt their crapped out final drives, after getting a second one.

I hope your 8K+ posts over the last 15 yrs. aren't as enlightening as the one you've provided here.
 

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I'm sorry in your infinite wisdom you weren't able to keep up. Yes, I have an assy. that is useable as is. But wait--- there's more. I have the original one that I want to repair. Just like others have rebuilt their crapped out final drives, after getting a second one.

I hope your 8K+ posts over the last 15 yrs. aren't as enlightening as the one you've provided here.
Congratulations. You are only the second person I’ve felt the need to block on this forum.
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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Congratulations. You are only the second person I’ve felt the need to block on this forum.
Why?

In his defense: You are the one that missed his question. "but I'd be interested to know of any specific methods for either repairing or working around the original thru connector that tends to get corroded to point of terminals being non-existent. So, if anyone knows, then please share. "

Instead you told his how to maintain his new one and completely ignored the question.
 
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Why?

In his defense: You are the one that missed his question. "but I'd be interested to know of any specific methods for either repairing or working around the original thru connector that tends to get corroded to point of terminals being non-existent. So, if anyone knows, then please share. "

Instead you told his how to maintain his new one and completely ignored the question.
Because I don’t have time to waste on idiots who see fit to make a snarky reply to a post where I offered useful information. I did not have an answer to his question, so I didn’t try to provide a BS answer, I just didn’t respond to it. I do have an idea how to prevent such corrosion and since he apparently had a serviceable unit I thought that might be of use to him. Obviously not, so I simply won’t be bothered with him in the future. Life is more enjoyable when you tune out the idiots.
 

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I wonder if Donna left because of a similar experience?
 

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If the wires are so corroded, have you tried firing up the pump to see if it works? I added new metal quick disconnects and hoses to mine before trying to start the bike... okay... no sound. So, I pulled the pump and it looked like this. I tried hooking ups wires to the pump to see if it works, and it was shot. I don't know how bad your pump is, but I just replaced everything while waiting for my fuel injectors to come back from Mr. Injector in ID.
View attachment 172997
After pulling the fuel pump on my 2001 K1200LT, I found the wires connected to the terminals on the pump holder base were off and the terminal lugs were corroded to practically nothing. I was able to re-solder wires to the lugs, but am getting no continuity from the outside power connector to the pump wires.
Is there another way to supply power to the pump?
I had the same problem with my bike after it sat for four years with fuel in the tank. I replaced all of the hoses and wires, but I soaked the carrier in vinegar for about two weeks to clean it up. I soldered the wires back on and found an epoxy that was resistant to gasoline and covered the solder joints. So far so good.

You may find replacing the fuel pump and base plate, etc., would be a lot less hassle down the road. Good luck!
 

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A little late but I saw this thread and thought I might offer an alternative. I have a K1200RS that sat for three years with a blown motor. Swapped the motor and found my fuel pump flange was severely corroded. I was unable to resolder the wires despite careful cleaning the contact surfaces--there just wasn't enough of the two connectors left.

I ordered off e-Bay an "ATL CFD-504 Bulkhead" electrical connector ($!8) and some 12 AWG PWFE electrical wire ($36 for all shipped). I'll enlarge/drill out the existing flange hole that carries the wire to fit my CFD-504 and rewire with the 12 AWG wire. .The CFD is rated for all fuels including racing fuels and ethanol and PWFE wire is also rated for submersion in gasoline.

It should work. I'll try and post picks and follow-up when done.

Kontoboy

Postscript--the swapped motor (also bought on e-Bay) does work. I swapped the tank from my 2004 K1200 GT to fire it up.
 

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Just sold my 2003 and now working on a 2000 with low miles bought from a shop not running was setting i don't know for how long at motorcycle shop and i have the same Fuel pump issue ,Just wanted to share Fuel pump photo, don't know why a piece of sheet metal (Flange) list price at $480 ????. someone should have it made in china for under $30 will make a tons of money.
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