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Winter here in the northwest, (like 28" of snow last week and I was riding just the day before!) and I'm looking for a winter project. Thought of changing both the low & high headlights with LED's. Tired of cranking my fingers and wrists trying to replace the existing bulbs.
Lots of products out there but would like some recommendations.
I'm really looking for a plug and replace type. New items offer their own cooling system with out having to replace the entire existing (OEM) system.
Also, for my wife's 2014 F800GT.
Thoughts?
Cheers,
P.G.
 

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First thing i did on my RT was to replace all bulbs. 7 years ago LED's where not as advanced as today, so had the low beams HID. They still work, so am not about to change them just yet. However, have a pair of Firehawk that were highly recommended, just in case . For High beam have a Weisslicht for 7 years and still works as should. Was very expensive at the time.
Replaced the turn signals and brake lights with LED as well. They are at least twice as bright. Only one that turned on the warning light on board was the brake bulbs, but for the better quality light, i can live with that. For brake bulbs may want to consider the blinking ones. They blink first 5 or so, they stay on. I believe that attract the attention of a vehicle that is behind you.
 

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Thoughts?
This was on my hexhead RT, not an LC, but principles are the same . Decided to get LEDs replacing the filament globes as one just blew and suspected the other to be close behind.

As you pointed out, lots of choices, but one that is the point of this post was the cooling. They all have them, either passive or active. I decided to use one of the passive ones. Used a reasonable local (as far as I can tell) brand, Stedi, with their copper mesh passive cooling. The point of it was to be able to close up the headlight assembly the way it was intended. I know most fan globes will be too long, so they will end up compromising the watertightness of the headlight body.

The copper mesh tucked in quite nicely, fanned out in all directions and was able to use the original caps fitting properly without any pressure on them from the LEDs.

I rode this arrangement for at least 20 k miles in our summer too with no ill effects of any kind.
 

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I recently switched over to a Cyclops Low & High beam setup on my 2016 R1200RTP LC. I really like the light output. Started as a small headlight conversion project that bloomed into a lot more that has been done on my ride.
 

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2016 BMW R1200RT Premium in San Marino blue
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I, too got the CycleOps kit (1 main bulb, 2 high beam bulb). It's designed specifically for the RT, so of course it works a charm. Since it is a "custom kit" it's one of the most expensive ways to go, but you KNOW it's going to work - extremely well.
 

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Winter here in the northwest, (like 28" of snow last week and I was riding just the day before!) and I'm looking for a winter project. Thought of changing both the low & high headlights with LED's. Tired of cranking my fingers and wrists trying to replace the existing bulbs.
Lots of products out there but would like some recommendations.
I'm really looking for a plug and replace type. New items offer their own cooling system with out having to replace the entire existing (OEM) system.
Also, for my wife's 2014 F800GT.
Thoughts?
Cheers,
P.G.
My install procedure, to my 2018 R1200RT, is below. I have a service light which I believe is telling me to change my oil (need to run the bike's error codes this winter), but no CANBUS hickups yet. As to the more expensive options, what you're buying is their customer service reputation (and Cyclops is good). However, THEY buy their stuff from China via Ali-Express just like half the jobbers who advertise their stuff on Amazon (this is my assumption, since I've seen identical LED lights on Ali-Express, if I want to buy them in bulk). The Firehawk's claim to have been designed in Japan, but I think they are still made in China, Taiwan, or Vietnam, etc...

Regarding heat sinks, I did quite a bit of research on LED's, including those who use only heat sinks (e.g. copper mesh or solid), and those who use fans, and those (the majority) which use both. I came away convinced that the most reliable LED's were those which used both a ball bearing fan and heat sink. I was also concerned about the heat melting the dust covers or worse. In the end, I concluded that the halogen lights produce far more heat than the LED's, that the biggest issue is the CANBUS compatibility. Since many (most?) vehicles are using a CANBUS or similar system to manage circuits, rather than fuse protected blocks, the latest LEDs seem to including capacitor designs to allow for the lower power draw of the LED vis-a-vis the OEM halogens, which is what triggers a "light out" error from CANBUS. This one seems to work OK, but installation was a bear.


Liquid Fluid Material property Red Bottle
 

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2018 R1200RT
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My KLT had the worst headlight I have ever had. It was downright dangerous to ride at night. At that time there was a company that sold a Phillips HID conversion kit than these huge ballasts. That system was beyond belief. High beams would light up overhead road signs almost a mile away. I have not encountered LED with the same amount of penetration even at the level of those 35 watt HID bulbs.
The drawback of LED high beams is the warm up delay and the fact that it is supposedly hard on the bulbs to switched on-off. I wish I could buy that same Phillips low beam though or possibly the 55 watt version.
 

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I had Cyclops install the low & high beam setup for me at the MOA rally this year. So far I am very pleased. The beam pattern isn't the greatest but the LED color provides better visibility which more than makes up for it. Combined with the aux LEDs the night time visibility is great. The low beam setup also does not seem to bother other drivers as I've yet to be flashed.
 

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...
The drawback of LED high beams is the warm up delay and the fact that it is supposedly hard on the bulbs to switched on-off. ...
I think you meant the HID lights have the warm up delay. LEDs are instantaneous on. I have HID high and low beams on my other BMW and when toggling them on and off for say traffic there is too much delay in starting the high beam.
 

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+1 for the Cyclops, I have High/low/aux lights on my 15 RT. If you are in the Seattle area, they are in Kent, WA and they are a great company. They can even install them for you for a small fee. Its a PITA to install the low beam especially. I ride all year and their lights are fantastic in the rain and dark PNW winters.
 

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I, too got the CycleOps kit (1 main bulb, 2 high beam bulb). It's designed specifically for the RT, so of course it works a charm. Since it is a "custom kit" it's one of the most expensive ways to go, but you KNOW it's going to work - extremely well.
I have the same kit installed on my 2016 - love the light output. I do have an issue when running the high beam for 5 minutes the motorcycle tells me I have a bulb out, turning the high beam off and then on again clears it for a few minutes but it is a bit of a pain - my suspicion is that it's heat related but I haven't been able to prove it.

Anyone else having this issue with the Cyclops???

Ski
 

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Replaced the turn signals and brake lights with LED as well. They are at least twice as bright. Only one that turned on the warning light on board was the brake bulbs, but for the better quality light, i can live with that. For brake bulbs may want to consider the blinking ones. They blink first 5 or so, they stay on. I believe that attract the attention of a vehicle that is behind you.
May I ask what bulbs you used? I'd like to get some higher intensity buls for my signals and brakes

Ski
 

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May I ask what bulbs you used? I'd like to get some higher intensity buls for my signals and brakes

Ski
Changed the bulbs maybe 6 years ago. Tend to believe any will work, but stay away from the very cheap chinese brands.
P21W/12V/21W works for my 2008 For blinking brake lights i have the Skene P3. But these days you can find bulbs that are factory built blinkers LED Brake Light, https://www.amazon.com/Alla-Lighting-Strobe-Flashing-Replacement/dp/B09MQ6WY25/ref=sr_1_10?crid=10QRC5XS60YI6&keywords=alla+red+1156&qid=1669007536&sprefix=alla+red+1156,aps,102&sr=8-10
Just make sure you get the ones that fit your bike. I have a set of these on my car for 4 years, still work good.
 

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May I ask what bulbs you used? I'd like to get some higher intensity buls for my signals and brakes

Ski
Here i found a pick with left factory bulb, right a LED one.
 

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May I ask what bulbs you used? I'd like to get some higher intensity buls for my signals and brakes

Ski
Hi Ski. You're the very first I've heard that has a fault when running your Cyclops headlights on high beams. I haven't experienced that at all. Have you contacted them about it? I'm curious and would like to know what they have to say about it.

I hate to tell you, but other than the headlights on your 2016 RT which do come with "bulbs", your OEM turn indicators and brake light are already LEDs. No "bulbs" to be replaced. As I warned about advise from guys who have older bikes that are not current generation "wethead" BMWs, they want to be helpful, but they are recommending "bulbs" that aren't part of this generation that have circuit boards and integrated LEDs instead of "bulb" receptacles. There are plenty of after-market products that can provide additional lighting and span older generations, but not to replace "bulbs" in receptacles that do not exist.

The Skene product mentioned is popular for additional brake lighting as are some LED lighting packages for the OEM 49L top case. I've seen LED strip lighting added to the case that includes integrated turn indicators as well by aid of a brake and turn signal controller. And of course there are additional add-on driving lights from Denali, Clearwater and others that shouldn't have heat or power issues as they are out in the wind.

Good luck.
 

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I have the same kit installed on my 2016 - love the light output. I do have an issue when running the high beam for 5 minutes the motorcycle tells me I have a bulb out, turning the high beam off and then on again clears it for a few minutes but it is a bit of a pain - my suspicion is that it's heat related but I haven't been able to prove it.

Anyone else having this issue with the Cyclops???

Ski
Curiosity question....Did you install the high beams with the resistors included in the kit? I think that that instructions say that they can be excluded (I have to read them again to confirm).
 
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