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Discussion Starter #1
I was at the Calgary Motorcycle show on Saturday and thought I would post some pictures of how the Top case attachment works since I had not seen this shown to date.
The one photo shows the top rack, (base) which the top case mounts to. It uses the 4 cutouts in the rack with the two front, (towards the bike) ones used for the 2 fixed tabs on the bottom of the top case, (similar to the ones used on the K1200LT that holds the passenger seat in place). In side the top case is a dial that when turned a 1/4 turn to the right moves 2 plastic tab locks which inserts into the rear 2 cutouts on the base rack. Once this has been turned the top case tilts forward and the case is pulled to the rear to release it from the base mounting plate.
The power wire is feed through a hole into the top case on the front right corner. This wire is feed along the right rear side of the passenger seat ending underneath the seat. It is connected with a flat plastic plug located under the passenger seat.
Hope the pictures show what I am trying to explain.
 

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Randy, thanks a lot for that post. I was wondering how the topcase would be removed and how difficult it might be. Would have been nice to not have to open the case to remove it, but at least it's removable without breaking out the tool kit.
 

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Thanks for posting this. That's very similar to the top case install on the 12/1300 GTs, except they have a lever on the case instead of the knob on the inside. Having had 2 GTs with top cases I can tell you that's a very stable mounting mechanism.
 

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What I care about is the mount itself - if it's exactly the same as at least one existing bike then aftermarket topcases, such as the Shad I have now, can immediately be used with the bike.
 

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Dear Randy,

very usefull. Thank you.

One question: will this have affect on the electronics of the bike: for example: warning light in the dash? In the top case is an extra breaking light i believe. This will not function anymore. Will this make the dash lights go wrong or beeping?

Greetings from Rob in Amsterdam Holland
 

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DavidTaylor said:
Thanks for posting this. That's very similar to the top case install on the 12/1300 GTs, except they have a lever on the case instead of the knob on the inside.
My guess is that they had the indicator guy design this system as some sort of recompense for going back to normal indicator switches. Now all you have to do is empty the case and lift the carpet lining to do what a simple handle on the outside has done well for years!
 

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consigliere said:
Dear Randy,

very usefull. Thank you.

One question: will this have affect on the electronics of the bike: for example: warning light in the dash? In the top case is an extra breaking light i believe. This will not function anymore. Will this make the dash lights go wrong or beeping?

Greetings from Rob in Amsterdam Holland
I would hope that BMW took this into consideration when they designed this bike. The high mounted brake light is a dealer installed option in the US.
 

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highroamer said:
My guess is that they had the indicator guy design this system as some sort of recompense for going back to normal indicator switches. Now all you have to do is empty the case and lift the carpet lining to do what a simple handle on the outside has done well for years!
That's an interesting comment, I hadn't considered the case removal particularly onerous (I come from a Harley lineage where the amount of cables that must be unplugged to remove the tour-pak on an Ultra Classic is legendary), but when you mention how simple it is to remove the top case currently this does seem like a step back...
 

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highroamer said:
Now all you have to do is empty the case and lift the carpet lining to do what a simple handle on the outside has done well for years!
Yep, the "old" way worked just fine, thanks.
 

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Thanks for the pics..

I'm sure there's a good reason why they went with a quarter turn on the inside of the case. At any rate, I always use an inner liner. so it's easy enough to do.. no whining from me :)

I did see a second "diagnosis" plug under the passenger seat and was told that's for the top case wiring.. We'll see. Don't forget the GTL topcase will have central locking. Not sure if the GT topcase will too.
 

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Thanks, Randy! Looks like it'll be a fairly simple matter to remove/re-attach the topcase!

OTOH, it looks like there's only ONE place the topcase can reside (whereas the LT's topcase can be moved forward/back depending on pillion comfort point). That's not the end of the world - just less ability to customize for passenger optimization.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hi Bruce

From what I saw and was told from BMW Canada, was that the Top Case does only have one position but sits 30mm further back then the GT Top case option due to the extra thickness of the back rest padding that comes on the GTL top case.
As for the brake light on the top case we actually did get into the discussion as to how the top case removed may have an issue with the electrical system setup. The BMW rep. believed there would be a plug/cap placed on the disconnected feed wire to the top case when it was removed. I assumed this would be like some type of jumper to simulate a constant connection in the system. Time will tell if this will be the case.
 

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ferrasr said:
Hi Bruce

From what I saw and was told from BMW Canada, was that the Top Case does only have one position but sits 30mm further back then the GT Top case option due to the extra thickness of the back rest padding that comes on the GTL top case.
As for the brake light on the top case we actually did get into the discussion as to how the top case removed may have an issue with the electrical system setup. The BMW rep. believed there would be a plug/cap placed on the disconnected feed wire to the top case when it was removed. I assumed this would be like some type of jumper to simulate a constant connection in the system. Time will tell if this will be the case.
I hope we don't have to go through the nonsense we have to bear with the S1000RR. A simple resistor will eliminate any fault but it's just cludgy to do to a brand new bike.
 

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sfoster said:
I hope we don't have to go through the nonsense we have to bear with the S1000RR. A simple resistor will eliminate any fault but it's just cludgy to do to a brand new bike.
What's the deal with the S1000R?
 

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fluffy said:
What's the deal with the S1000R?
Even though there are instructions in the owner's manual about disconnecting lights for use on Trackdays, if you disconnect them, you get lamp errors. This was solved by pulling a couple of fuses and adding resistors to the connectors. Simple and effective, but a PITA.
 

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highroamer said:
Now all you have to do is empty the case and lift the carpet lining to do what a simple handle on the outside has done well for years!
Yes and no -- this is slightly more work than the current R12RT/K13GT topcase removal, but it's *far* less work than removing the top case from a K12LT (about 7-8 fewer steps). I'm satisfied with this arrangement.
 

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mneblett said:
Yes and no -- this is slightly more work than the current R12RT/K13GT topcase removal, but it's *far* less work than removing the top case from a K12LT (about 7-8 fewer steps). I'm satisfied with this arrangement.
And if you're satisfied, I'm happy for you. Me, I've never taken the topcase of my LT and I don't want to. That's why I bought a bike with beautifully integrated luggage and why I'm disappointed with the tacked on luggage of the new GTL. The point is that BMW, having decided to do it this way, have found a way to complicate the procedure which is particularly frustrating when they have had a system in house that has worked well for years. Its the same design philosophy that gave us the 3 paddle indicators and the convoluted radio controls. Perversity is alive and well at BMW!
 

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highroamer said:
Its the same design philosophy that gave us the 3 paddle indicators and the convoluted radio controls. Perversity is alive and well at BMW!
Funny -- different perspectives -- I think the second generation 3 paddle turn signals were the absolute best, most ergonomically logical and intuitive arrangement on any bike I've ridden in the last 30+ years, and I'm buying a K16 despite BMW's caving in to the unenlightened masses in the market. :D

One of the things I like about this places is that we both can have our opinions, without needing to convince the other or resorting to vitriol -- keep the opinions flowing! :thumb
 

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The three paddle turn signals would have been a great idea if they had been a two paddle design. I like using the right thumb to turn on the right turn signal but they needed a better way to cancel them.
I know that I will get used to the new DOT signals.
 

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mneblett said:
Funny -- different perspectives -- I think the second generation 3 paddle turn signals were the absolute best, most ergonomically logical and intuitive arrangement on any bike I've ridden in the last 30+ years, and I'm buying a K16 despite BMW's caving in to the unenlightened masses in the market. :D

One of the things I like about this places is that we both can have our opinions, without needing to convince the other or resorting to vitriol -- keep the opinions flowing! :thumb

It's either my age or just poor design, but I'm still not used to the turn signal switches. It is rare that I don't turn on my left indicator when I'm trying to toot the horn! Even after 48,000 miles, the muscle memory is not there. Never had the problem with other bikes and for shorter ownership times.

I still love the K1200LT and so far, the best bike I've ever owned, but it does have it's quirks.

Got a K1600GTL on order and can't wait to figure out it's idiot switches....
 
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