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Enjoy The Ride
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I buy all of my clutch parts from MotoBins in the UK. I don't know if they can ship to you. San Jose Costa Rica has a BMW motorcycle dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Beech, thank you for the O-Rings. They've arrived to Miami, and on their way to Managua. Thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter #23
is this a good site to buy parts from: My Cart
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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Discussion Starter #25

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I'll be interested to see the answer to that question. I was under the impression that when you replace the clutch plate you also need to replace the spring plate, the pressure plate, and the housing cover. Can you get away with only doing the clutch plate? Maybe it's OK since you only have 28,000 miles?

Disclaimer--I'm not a wrench.
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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You should NOT use the BMW 19 x 4 o-ring, much better to use one made of Viton instead if you can find one locally.
For replacement of the other parts, pressure plate, housing cover and spring, it depends on their condition. The spring will show virtually no wear (I have examined several used ones and compared to new - no difference) the pressure plate and housing cover should be examined for wear and surface cracks. I usually end up replacing those. These are from my first clutch job at 50,000 miles and no contamination just wear.

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Attached is the parts list for my 2000 LT. Keep in mind that the costs is from January 2006. My dealer (Mortons BMW) did the work.
 

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I dunno but if it was me I'd spend the extra $400 for the other "wear" items because if I was doing the job myself I would never ever want to have to do it again. But maybe you're the opposite of me--maybe you LOVE to wrench on your bike. ☺
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Good advice. The cover and pressure plate.
Don’t mind wrenchin’ but rather be out ridin’


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Discussion Starter #31
So, I'm finally setting aside the days to tackle this over the holidays. Thank you Mr. Trevelino for the parts list. The prices have definitively gone up since 2006.
One question, seems my clutch slave cylinder is not leaking as the level has not gone down. Is it absolutely necessary to replace the slave cylinder. That'd save me about $200.
My problem as I explained is living in Nicaragua with no dealer, and parts can take about a month to get here.
Your advice is appreciated.
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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If you are over 60,000 miles I would consider it. Also does it have the "fingers" on the circlip like in this photo, if so it is the new style slave and should be good. Also while you are in there at least drill the weep hole so when it does leak you will know it before it takes out your new clutch.
171743

171744
 

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Discussion Starter #33
The bike has 28k miles. It’s a 2007.
That’s why I’m wondering if I should absolutely replace the spring, pressure plate and clutch cover.
If I get everything it’d be $872.
I guess I have no choice but to open and see, but I wanted to take a decent guess at parts.
Seems too new for those parts to be bad.

I’m guessing I fried the clutch while I was GSing in the mud. Though the slipping started after the trip.
Or a seal went bad.


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2005 K1200LT
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I have found no difference in springs between new and 80,000 miles by measurement. The real question on the pressure plate and flywheel(clutch housing) is the surface condition which is likely to be worse on an abused clutch than a high mileage clutch. Only inspection can answer that question as to grooves, heat cracks and uneven wear.

This is from my first clutch job where I had abused the clutch during my first cross country trip pulling a trailer. 50,000 miles.
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Don't forget warp, dishing of the surfaces from heat of slipping. A small straight edge across the working surfaces can show if it is dished. A few thousandths and it is now questionable.
 
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Discussion Starter #36
frak, I was not looking forward to that $872 plus shipping and taxes to Nicaragua...
So, I might just order the bare minimum, and if I find more stuff, I'll leaving disassembled and get the rest.
So, that'd be:
  • Clutch
  • Pressure Plate
  • Seals and other small stuff
  • Centering tool

Leave out for now, the spring, clutch cover, and slave cylinder.

What do you say?
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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Have you checked Motobins in the UK? They beat US prices on genuine BMW stuff and even with shipping it is cheaper. (for us anyway). No need for the centering tool it is very easy to eyeball it, as I have done on many clutch jobs.

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Discussion Starter #38
I checked motobins, thank you. Some parts are cheaper. Some are not. Seems to be slightly cheaper in the end.
I might get some stuff from them, and the other from EuroMotoElectrics.
I'll get the essentials and after the teardown figure out what else.
BTW, Motobins has an oil resistant/heavy duty clutch. Is that better. Theirs is pretty cheap, and only 8 pounds more expensive the the Sachs.
 

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So, I'm finally setting aside the days to tackle this over the holidays. Thank you Mr. Trevelino for the parts list. The prices have definitively gone up since 2006.
One question, seems my clutch slave cylinder is not leaking as the level has not gone down. Is it absolutely necessary to replace the slave cylinder. That'd save me about $200.
My problem as I explained is living in Nicaragua with no dealer, and parts can take about a month to get here.
Your advice is appreciated.
I think I had about 27,000 miles when mine first started slipping and it had not been abused in any way. I nursed it for several more years until a trip to Newfoundland got it to the point of being intolerable. I had 54,000 miles at the time of the repair if memory serves (maybe not precisely that, but I am too lazy to go look at my long thread on my repair saga). I debated replacing the slave and the main seal on the engine output shaft, but I am definitely of the “if it ain’t broke don’t break it” school of thought and left both as they were. I did take the slave apart and inspect the bore, piston, seal and bearing and they all looked good so I greased the bearing and put it back in. I would have replaced the seal if I could have found one, but I could not so I didn’t.

I am now approaching 90,000 and all is still well so I have no regrets. I could have easily replaced both parts and got a defective part and been back in there in far less than 36,000 miles.

Obviously, a very personal choice and only you an decide what makes you sleep well at night. I have simply had too many wrenching experiences over the years where I replaced a part that really didn’t need to be replaced and got a part that was either infant mortality defective or was of lesser quality than the original and didn’t last as long as the part I took out likely would have lasted.
 

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I am with John on aligning the clutch. Take the pushrod and insert it, then find a socket that will slide over and into the splines centering it, then tighten away. No special tool is needed. You can eyeball it too .
 
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