BMW Luxury Touring Community banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, I just bought a K1200LT engine to put into a homebuilt 1950's style sports racecar. eBay seller showed a video of it running. 26k miles on it, no ecu. What service should I do to the engine before I mount it? I expect it will be a LONG time before it gets started. Thanks in advance.

Btw looking for exhaust manifolds and other parts. eBay is probably best unless you can recommend other sources.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
52 Posts
Hello, I just bought a K1200LT engine to put into a homebuilt 1950's style sports racecar. eBay seller showed a video of it running. 26k miles on it, no ecu. What service should I do to the engine before I mount it? I expect it will be a LONG time before it gets started. Thanks in advance.

Btw looking for exhaust manifolds and other parts. eBay is probably best unless you can recommend other sources.
Keep us updated. I can't wait to see it!
 

·
Registered
K1200LT 2005
Joined
·
246 Posts
I assume there's no gasoline. If it's going to sit for a long while, change the oil unless it was just changed. Including transmission, if you got that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,575 Posts
Ebay would be a good start for parts. You should be able to find a complete wiring harness on Ebay which would help greatly in getting it running. You should also be able to find an appropriate ECU there as well to match up with the year of the engine. What year is the engine as that will determine what parts you start to look for. While the engine is separate, you should replace some seals while it is easy to get at them, mainly the rear output shaft 4X19 O-ring seal on the clutch basket with a Viton one. Pictures are always welcome for projects like this.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Remy and kbob12

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,980 Posts
Hello, I just bought a K1200LT engine to put into a homebuilt 1950's style sports racecar. eBay seller showed a video of it running. 26k miles on it, no ecu. What service should I do to the engine before I mount it? I expect it will be a LONG time before it gets started. Thanks in advance.

Btw looking for exhaust manifolds and other parts. eBay is probably best unless you can recommend other sources.
BeemerBoneyard.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Nardi, Giaur, and a few others built cars in Italy for the 750 class of racing. Quite a few had 750 cc BMW air cooled motorcycle engines, and participated in the Mille Miglia and other races.

They were tiny. A Lotus 7 is a fair comparison, but with better aerodynamics. They raced in the US in the H-mod class. That is the target shape, whether I can pull it off is another story. I have built a Lotus 7 (Ron Chapman Locost actually) chassis but had to abandon it due to work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
737 Posts
Check the valve clearances.
Replace the rear main seal
If you're not using the K12LT transmission, then you don't have to worry about the slave cylinder weep hole mod.
Those are about it for things that are significant work on the LT engine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I just saw the thread on this site about drilling and tapping the old seal to help pull it out. Am relieved it doesn't mean a major tear down of the engine.

Also, is there a trick to removing the driveshaft from the transmission? Is there a heavy duty clutch people can recommend?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,575 Posts
You might be able to find some heavy duty parts but I would think they are not readily available. The OEM clutch thickness is required as anything thicker will pull the diaphragm fingers in too far when tightened and the clutch pushrod will be too short to disengage the clutch. If you have the resources, you could have a disk made with a more durable friction material but it is a dry clutch and reving it high to take off which you might have to do in a heavier vehicle like a car will definitely shorten its life and it is likely to slip under a heavy start until it stops slipping where it can hold more force. Best method is to feather out the clutch at a lower RPM and once it is fully out, get on it then. It isn't a really strong clutch over all but will last well enough if not abused. There is one modle disc spring that is a heavier material if you can find one but I don't remember what model it came on to even produce a part number.

The drive shaft is on the transmission and final drive ( 2 pieces) with a spring circlip at both ends so it can be removed with a pry bar, just protect the pry surfaces as some may be threaded depending on what point in the disassembly you remove it.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top