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Discussion Starter #1
I recently purchased a 2001 LT (my 1st BMW) with 16,000 miles on it. About a month ago while I was out riding the tach and speedometer zeroed out momentarily and the stereo went off and came back on, but there was no hesitation in the engine. The problem has gotten progressively worse (happens more often) to the point now where sometimes the bike will start and sometimes there is nothing. I'm sure it's an electrical problem wasn't about to tear it apart looking for what's wrong because of my lack of knowledge about beemers. It's at the dealer now for repair.

Anybody have an idea what the problem might be?

After reading some of the posts of repair bills some people have I don't have a good feeling about what mine might look like.

Any advise/words of encouragement would be appreciated.
 

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The very first thing I would look at are the battery terminals. Even if they are tight, I would remove them, clean them up with a wire brush and reinstall. (Remove the ground side first, then the positive. Reinstall the positive first, the ground wire last.) While you're at it, leave the battery disconnected for about 30 minutes to clear out the ECU. Never hurts. Once the battery is reconnected, you'll have to reset your clock and preform a TPS calibration.

TPS Calibration:
  1. Turn key ON, do NOT start bike.
  2. Open throttle all the way, close throttle all the way . . . repeat 2 times.
  3. Turn key OFF . . . you're good to go.
HTH
 

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Discussion Starter #4
RaffyK said:
Loose wire at the starter? Loose connection at the battery?

My choice would be the first.
Thanks for your response.

Not sure I understand how a loose wire to the starter could be causing the everything to shut down momentarily while I'm driving it. Is this something the on board computer would detect?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
messenger13 said:
The very first thing I would look at are the battery terminals. Even if they are tight, I would remove them, clean them up with a wire brush and reinstall. (Remove the ground side first, then the positive. Reinstall the positive first, the ground wire last.) While you're at it, leave the battery disconnected for about 30 minutes to clear out the ECU. Never hurts. Once the battery is reconnected, you'll have to reset your clock and preform a TPS calibration.

TPS Calibration:
  1. Turn key ON, do NOT start bike.
  2. Open throttle all the way, close throttle all the way . . . repeat 2 times.
  3. Turn key OFF . . . you're good to go.
HTH
Thanks for your response.

What is the TPS?
 

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K1200LT electrical problem

Find a good independent BMW mechanic. They will be about 2/3 the cost of the dealers and I am not convinced, as a group they are any better than the independents.
 

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Also, if you haven't been "inside" yet, then this is probably a good reason to dive in. I would take off both Tupperware sides at least so you can loosen or take off entirely the "sting ray" (top part housing the radio, etc.) and take a look at the several Weatherpack type connections of wiring on the left hand side, that if not secured or corroded might cause something like you are experiencing.
 

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2005 K1200LT
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Actually a loose wire on the starter can cause the symptoms. The starter provides the gound for the load shed relay. This relay cuts out all major loads while the starter is cranking the engine - lights, radio, just about everything except the engine electronics (aka onboard computer). If the wire to to the starter is loose this relay will cut in and out.

Oh and TPS is the throttle position sensor.
 

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jzeiler said:
Actually a loose wire on the starter can cause the symptoms. The starter provides the gound for the load shed relay. This relay cuts out all major loads while the starter is cranking the engine - lights, radio, just about everything except the engine electronics (aka onboard computer). If the wire to to the starter is loose this relay will cut in and out.

Oh and TPS is the throttle position sensor.
I should have stayed with what I had posted earlier. Gut feeling was correct but then the doubt creeped in about my post.

Oh well, great to be corrected.



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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks

Thanks to all you guys who have responded. Points brought up will help me ask the right questions when I talk with the dealer. Will have to look for an independent BMW mechanic.

I always wanted an "LT" from the first moment I laid my eyes on one. I'm very excited about the bike and plan on putting alot of miles on it before the snow starts flying.

Thanks again.

:bmw:
 

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Has your dealer come up with a solution to your electrical problem? I'd be curious as to what they found. It seems that so many times there is a problem discussed on this board and several possibilities offered by the members but no results posted on what was the correct one. It would help us all if we could refine our collective "database" with knowledge of what the answer turned out to be.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
McAllister said:
Has your dealer come up with a solution to your electrical problem? I'd be curious as to what they found. It seems that so many times there is a problem discussed on this board and several possibilities offered by the members but no results posted on what was the correct one. It would help us all if we could refine our collective "database" with knowledge of what the answer turned out to be.
McAllister: The dealer called yesterday and the mechanic "thinks" it's the ignition. They should have a better idea later today.

I agree, not much good asking questions to a problem and not posting what the cause/fix action was. Will post both as soon as I get the bike back with the problem resolved.
 
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