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Discussion Starter #1
My cruise control will not "work" on my bike. I believe it has to be a min of 35 to engage. I have run the self diagnostics on the cruise control electronics and the passed (dealer showed me). The computer converts to a mechanical control lead to the Carbs. If I read the on line manual correctly this is on the left side of the bike easily visible under the tupperware is that right?
Can I leave the bike on the center stand and SAFELY rev the bike up to speed and keep adjusting the cable until it engages the cruise? PS which direction should I be turning the cable since I assume my problem is that it is slack or stretched?
 

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are you saying that when you are up to speed and you "set" the cruise control (switch on) that the "set light" comes on but the cruise does not maintain speed - you slow down on compression and would come to a stop
I was having trouble with mine because I did not realise how easy it was to shut it off if I applied slight pressure to throttle
 

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has it ever worked?

Has anyone done a repair under the left side front fairings?

After I got mine back from dealer repair I noticed that the CC did not work.

I called and asked if anyone was in the area of the cruise control cables--the person in charge of the repair department was adamant that nothing near the cables was touched (a BIG FAT lie!!).

I spent hours with the self diagnostic verifying that the switches worked and more hours trying to adjust the cables so that the CC worked.

I finally got it to work just before a 250 mile ride. As I was headed down an interstate, with a BIG grin, I engaged the CC and it worked! What a relief, having CC that worked while I ran interstates late at night.

After a few hundred feet it dis engaged.?!

The dealer was smack dab in the middle of where the CC cables were and had routed a wiring harness over one of the throttle cables, thus screwing up my CC.

I got mine working again when I replaced the throttle cables.

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I do know about twisting the throttle to disengage the cruise. Thanks for the comment.

BecketMa - you are the best! I would love to knock off a few hundred with you anytime. Heck yes the cruise worked. I have progressing arthritis in my right hand believe me brother on the highway I love cruise.
Yes the problem did follow the dealer tearing my bike to shreds to put in a new clutch. So as know that damn thing gets gets stripped, clipped and cut in half! They sent me progress pictures as a "favor" broke my damn heart to see my girl tore up like that!
Yeah I have went through all the computer throttle testing process and the testing show the computer function of cruise to be working fine. So that leaves me with my double trouble problem. My left radiator blower is not working and neither is my cruise! Have you ever been under the tupperware on the left side should I be able to get at them both with out taking a cutting torch to the bike! HA

Gentlemen as always thank you for you considerate and wise advice
 

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I had a similar problem, cruise would not work, but passed all the diagnostic tests. The problem was that the actual cruise control cable had broken. Pretty easy to see once the left side is bared.
 

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Carbs??? Let's use some correct grammer how about throttle bodies!!

Sorry that's not the point of this response.

Let's see . . .

1. Before you take the bike to the dealer cruise works
2. Dealer takes possession of the bike does major disassembly and repairs
3. Dealer returns the bike to you with cruise and other items not functioning

I believe this is the dealer's issue!!

You cannot believe the number of times bikes developed issues after being in the hands of the dealers service staff.

But enough of this whining . . .

Cruise is made up of four sub-systems:
1. Cables with connections
2. Multitude of switches (one on the clutch, one on front brake, one on the rear brake and one associated with the throttle)
2. The setting unit on the left handle bar
3. The motorized operator under the nose cone on the left

Typically cruise mis-functions (setting and dropping) are due to switch settings however in your case it could be cable condition
or adjustments. On occasion the setting unit can go bad and I just helped a friend replace his motorized operator that failed.

Whenever I take the bike down to bare bones I always test ride to check on line routings and things like cruise control working before
I go thru the process of putting the tupperware back on. In your case since the tupperware is back on you will need to adjust the cables
by trial and error - if that is in fact your problem.

As to what direction to turn the adjusters its hard to tell. The cable set up on the newer LT's have adjusters that are easy to work with.

What year bike to you have?? The reason I ask is that the cable routings up top are different on the older bikes as BMW now sells new
cables, adjusters and a housing modification parts for the older LT's which does requires you to cut a hole on the bottom of the right hand
handle bar cover.

This pict shows a modified 2002 with the replacement kit and a hole cut out to route the new cables.



This pict shows the new routings on a new 2009



If your bike is older you may want to replace cables and resolve your adjustment issues all at one time - of course you will need to remove
the tupperware!! I believe this kit costs about $200 now and MAXBMW parts people know all the parts you need.

When I replaced mine on the 2002 I found the proper adjustment within a few turns no big issue. Why did I replace mine the cable routings
at the handle bars cause fatigue and failure casing cable breaks - this the repair ket and new routings on all the newer bikes.

Lastly as for putting the bike on the center stand and getting the rear wheel up to 35 mph in an attempt to check out the cruise that does
not sound like something I would do - accident waiting to happen!!

Good luck . . .
 

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My first thought is let the dealer fix it.

You will have to take off the upper left side panel, remove the gas tank or unbolt it and push it up and back.

To get at the micro switch on the throttle body so that you can move it just a hair backwards.

Once you have the side cover off you can see if the cables were routed correctly.

I finally got mine working after replacing the throttle cables.

Bob
 

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After removing the tupper ware on the left side to install a new jensen radio I was tesdriving the bike before putting the tupper ware back on and founs that the cruise would not come on and stay on. The set light on the dash would blink when i pushed forward on the thumb switch to set the cruise and then go imideatly out.

I found that after i had pushed the cruise control cable just in front of the left radiator hole opening in side a cable hold down clamp that there was not enough slack in the cable to properly operate the cruise control. The cruise cable was not under this cable clamp when I removed the tupperware. The cruise cable was out side this cable hod down clamp. To me it looked like it was suppossed to be inside the cable hold down clamp.

After I removed the cruise control cable from this open ended j hook clamp the cruise functioned as it had before. There is an online BMW repair manual at Scribd.com. I takes a while to down load (is is 452 pages) it goes in to detail about the cruise control system and the required number of milimeters of slack that must be in the single cable coming from the cruise actuator and in the two throttle cable from the throttle twist tube in order for the system to function properly. There are good pictures. I hope this helps.

Airplane
 
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