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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have removed the black rubber crash bar covers but haven't yet located the (one?) bolt that attaches the bar to the frame. Is it front center or rear? do the threads point l/r or up? Screwdriver, torx or mm wrench? Thanks much!
Ben White/The Hills, TX
 

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It's at the front of the bar, parallel to the ground and pointing straight back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
zaphod said:
It's at the front of the bar, parallel to the ground and pointing straight back.
Thanks Malcolm. I'll go look for it again. It appears that the crash bar slides into holes in the frame. Do I find the bolt (or is it a screw) behind the tupperware or is it exposed when the black cover is off?
B..
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
c00k1e said:
Are you sure you need to remove it? What are you doing?
Curious huh! <BBG> The previous owner crafted some very comfortable but less than esthetically pleasing enclosed footrests and welded them to the crash bars.

His idea is excellent for a trike (this is) but would be too low to the ground on a 2-wheel bike. If I can figure out how to make them a bit more pleasing to the eye, I will reinstall them. Meanwhile, off they must come!

Best,
Ben White/The Hills, TX
 

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ben1364 said:
Curious huh! <BBG> The previous owner crafted some very comfortable but less than esthetically pleasing enclosed footrests and welded them to the crash bars.

His idea is excellent for a trike (this is) but would be too low to the ground on a 2-wheel bike. If I can figure out how to make them a bit more pleasing to the eye, I will reinstall them. Meanwhile, off they must come!

Best,
Ben White/The Hills, TX
You need to remove the black bumper covers (done) and the chrome trim piece that those mount to. Ther are 3 bolts holding them on, 2 underneath and one at the back end near the rider's feet. Once you get that off you will see the metal bar and there is an Allen head bolt at the front where it slides into the receiver in the black subframe. After the blot is out you may have to wiggle it a bit to get it removed, they stick sometimes. If it's bad a few taps with a rubber mallet will coax it out. I always put a little silicone lubricant on the mounting posts when I reinstall; makes all the difference for the next removal. HTH
 

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ben1364 said:
Thanks Malcolm. I'll go look for it again. It appears that the crash bar slides into holes in the frame. Do I find the bolt (or is it a screw) behind the tupperware or is it exposed when the black cover is off?
B..
You have to take off the black plastic and the chromed plastic that's attached to it, to get to the bolt. The bolt is at the front of the crash bar and uses either a 5 or 6 mm allen wrench if I remember correctly.
 

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Just take off the black plastic cover and the chrome cover. You have to take the crash bar off in order to remove the tupperware. It's an allen bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
zaphod said:
Just take off the black plastic cover and the chrome cover. You have to take the crash bar off in order to remove the tupperware. It's an allen bolt.
Thanks all. I have the bars off. The questions I am now pondering are whether to (1) grind off the weld attaching the foot rests to the crash bars, (2) buy new crash bars, or (3) do without crash bars. They really aren't needed on a trike but the tupperware seems a bit 'steadier' with them in place. Thoughts?
 

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(1) grind off the weld attaching the foot rests to the crash bars, (2) buy new crash bars, or (3) do without crash bars

Your call. As you stated, the plastic is a bit sturdier with the bar in place. check with your dealer ir Chicago - they aren't all that expensive IIRC.
 

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ben1364 said:
Thanks all. I have the bars off. The questions I am now pondering are whether to (1) grind off the weld attaching the foot rests to the crash bars, (2) buy new crash bars, or (3) do without crash bars. They really aren't needed on a trike but the tupperware seems a bit 'steadier' with them in place. Thoughts?
I would suggest #2. They aren't that expensive and may be able to find them used at Beemer Boneyard. #1 seems like extra work for litt reason, and #3 would be a bad idea since this is what protects $700+ worth of bodywork from contacting the ground first in a low speed tipover.
 

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Mine is stuck and I can't get it out. I had that wreck during the past summer. Tried several times to get it out but man O man is that thing stuck...
 

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ben1364 said:
Thanks all. I have the bars off. The questions I am now pondering are whether to (1) grind off the weld attaching the foot rests to the crash bars, (2) buy new crash bars, or (3) do without crash bars. They really aren't needed on a trike but the tupperware seems a bit 'steadier' with them in place. Thoughts?
PM me if you need some new bars. I think I have some tucked away.
 

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PhantomK12LT said:
Mine is stuck and I can't get it out. I had that wreck during the past summer. Tried several times to get it out but man O man is that thing stuck...
Put some penetrating oil at the joints, corrosion will make them stick. A couple of taps with a plastic hammer will help as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
DavidTaylor said:
I would suggest #2. They aren't that expensive and may be able to find them used at Beemer Boneyard. #1 seems like extra work for litt reason, and #3 would be a bad idea since this is what protects $700+ worth of bodywork from contacting the ground first in a low speed tipover.
Thanks David. I have new crash bars on order because the Tupperware doesn't flex as much with them in place. However, since this is a trike, if it tips over, I have much bigger problems than the Tupperware on one side of the engine! <g>
Best,
Ben
 
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